January 18, 201313 yr These are the blades that I flubbed the heat treating on last Sat, but made a comeback on Sunday. Materials are 1095/L6. The larger blade is 5160/L6. Comments always welcome. Thanks for looking. John
January 18, 201313 yr Author Well now, this pattern is a top secret mistake. I had a gadzillion layer billet that had absolutely no interest...totally boring. So much so that I considered trashing it, but just couldn't do it. It sat around for awhile and I finally decided to deal with it. I cut the billet into 2" long pieces and stacked it layered with L6, and welded. I then slit it in the press for the feather pattern, rewelded, rotated and drew it out. I have no idea how many layers there are, but it's in the thousands. I am a little surprised that it looks decent. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Thanks for the comment. John
January 19, 201313 yr John as allways GREAT !!! work :) nice patterns ! by the way about a week ago got to work on Chads new hammer :) :) VERY VERY SWEET !!! I want to build one / -- Yestertday LOL hope you don't mind if I steel the Idea LOL :D got the OK from Chad had a talk with a machinist friend today looks like he can do machine work required this will be down the road a bit hopefully :) Steve
January 19, 201313 yr Schwiing! I know you've talked about the tribulations of the feather pattern, It's stunning, like steam rising off a pair of newborn twin calves...
January 19, 201313 yr Looking really nice! I see you are using L6 instead of 15n20, are you keeping the steel hot through the grinding, cutting, stacking? Or letting it cool between stacks? I am also curious about welding the 5160, I know people have done it but I've heard it can be difficult, have you had any problems? Again great looking blades, I've got to get back out and try some W's, Can't wait to see them finished.
January 19, 201313 yr Author Justin, I'm using L6 because I have a bunch of 9"w band saw blades that I shear in the ironworker to the needed width/length. I grind, cut and stack both hot and cold depending where I am in the process. I do take the time to etch if I'm ultimately going to be drawing out so the ends show as the face of the blade like in the 'w' pattern. Also, after slitting for the feather, I immediately grind the slit to remove scale prior to rewelding, then flux and back into the forge. I found that mig welding down the sides opposite of the slit helps in keeping the billet together when welding the slit. 5160 seems to weld just like any other steel to me and I've never had a problem with it. I'll post the flux formula I use when I get to the shop later. John
January 19, 201313 yr Author Here's the flux formula I use by volume: 5 parts anhydrous borax (not out of the supermarket) 2 parts boric acid 1/4 part each of fluorspar (calcium fluoride) sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride) non iodized salt I know there are probably a lot of bladesmiths who would say this is unnecessary, and that borax is all you need. That may be so, but I rarely have a problem welding anything including 5160. I use natural gas and a ribbon burner. It may be overkill, but it works well for me. All those ingredients can be purchased online. John
January 19, 201313 yr How do you like the ribbon burner? Do you have it in a horizontal or vertical forge? Borax has eaten away most of my forge and it is time to rebuild it. I have been considering switching to a vertical forge, mainly for welding. I like the horizontal for general forging and heat treating but need something that will last better with flux. I will have to go back and re-read Grant's tutorial on making ribbon burners.
January 19, 201313 yr Author The ribbon burner is the only way to go imho. I use it in an 18" horizontal forge with the inlet from the side. I use hard bricks on the floor and come up one brick (laid flat) on the sides, then use kaowool up from there. I just figure the floor bricks are expendable. I tried a vertical forge and found the flux ate away the kaowool on the sides. Pm on your web site. John
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