onetreeforge Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thats what I ment to say, it had not been heated and diped in oil, I am going to have the spring done at the spring makers, its not worth the hassle of me doing it and it not working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 You made your own leaf spring? That's neat! I like the design you've come up with. It looks very clean and serviceable. I'm wondering if you can backfill the tank with lead shot (like you can buy for reloading shotgun shells) now that you have a solid piece of shaft going straight to the floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 The spring was quit alot of work to make, I had it hardened at the spring makers this week, they were very intrested when I turnd up with it in my hand, I think I will just leave the empty space in the cylinder empty, lead is worth alot of money and I carn't buy anything to do with ammo as i don't have the paper work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boilermaker8 Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Just a quick question about anvil bases, It's my understanding that commercially produced hammers like the little giant have hollow cavities under the anvil block, yet these hammers are held in high regard for their striking power. How did the manufacturer get around the issues associated with the hollow base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r smith Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Just a quick question about anvil bases, It's my understanding that commercially produced hammers like the little giant have hollow cavities under the anvil block, yet these hammers are held in high regard for their striking power. How did the manufacturer get around the issues associated with the hollow base? even my one piece nazel 3b has a "hollow" anvil - this is needed due to the cast nature of the anvil/frame/main casting. The wall thickness of the casting is pretty thick, much more so than the 1/4" or so of a gas bottle. smith out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffm Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 The spring was quit alot of work to make, I had it hardened at the spring makers this week, they were very intrested when I turnd up with it in my hand, I think I will just leave the empty space in the cylinder empty, lead is worth alot of money and I carn't buy anything to do with ammo as i don't have the paper work You can buy lead shot from Reloaders Supplies, SAI or other suppliers. As it is not loaded ammunition, you don't need a licence. Melted down wheel weights would be cheaper. Geoff Auckland NZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 cool looking hammer, to my eye the spring looks very strong realtive to the eccentric pin on the plate. It might be worth considering sliding a boss over the pin, and welding it to the backing plate, so you have less unsupported pin sticking out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 cool looking hammer, to my eye the spring looks very strong realtive to the eccentric pin on the plate. It might be worth considering sliding a boss over the pin, and welding it to the backing plate, so you have less unsupported pin sticking out. That pin it counter bored into the plate, and has a step on the pin its a very tight fit, and has a 5/8" bolt thrugh it and a 8mm thick washer to stop it pulling thrugh. I think the pillow block housing would give out befor that did. I have nealy finshed the hammer, just need a motor pulley and belt, I have more pictures if anyone is interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Pictures please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 You can buy lead shot from Reloaders Supplies, SAI or other suppliers. As it is not loaded ammunition, you don't need a licence. Melted down wheel weights would be cheaper. Geoff Auckland NZ Hello jeoff, hows it going? I went to a forge in at your place along time ago, about 13 yers ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 I got a 2.2 KW 3 phase motor from the scrap yard, wired it for single phase with a capacitor of another junk motor, the tag on the motor sed it could be used for single phase like this. Going to use a 3" flat belt with a tensioner pulley, for the drive, I also found a 15" flat belt pulley but I need to somehow bore the hole bigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 that is a great looking hammer. I really like the oxygen cylinder base did you back fill the gaps between the solid bar and bottle wall? there is a modern obsession with a solid anvil and some idea of it being 20 to one weight.. I have 5 commercially built power hammers and none of them have a 20 to one anvil, 2 of them have hollow cast anvils. having a solid anvil will give you a little advantage at the top end of power but then so would speeding up the hammer or adding a small weight to the ram both of which would cost very little. I prefer seeing a home made hammer with a little bit of haphazard scrap scrounging involved. very good job. You asked earlier about hardening and tempering affecting the spring stiffness, it does not affect the stiffness but does increase the elastic limit of the spring so that it will flex further before becoming deformed. Hardening and tempering also increases the working life of the spring . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 that is a great looking hammer. I really like the oxygen cylinder base did you back fill the gaps between the solid bar and bottle wall? there is a modern obsession with a solid anvil and some idea of it being 20 to one weight.. I have 5 commercially built power hammers and none of them have a 20 to one anvil, 2 of them have hollow cast anvils. having a solid anvil will give you a little advantage at the top end of power but then so would speeding up the hammer or adding a small weight to the ram both of which would cost very little. I prefer seeing a home made hammer with a little bit of haphazard scrap scrounging involved. very good job. You asked earlier about hardening and tempering affecting the spring stiffness, it does not affect the stiffness but does increase the elastic limit of the spring so that it will flex further before becoming deformed. Hardening and tempering also increases the working life of the spring . Thank you, I had that oxygen cylinder hanging out of a tree with the bottom cut off and it would ring like a bell but needed it for this project, didn't end up filling it with anything but can allways cut a hole later. The only parts witch didn't come from the scrap are the pillow blocks and the rod end used for the crank I know what you meen about commercially built power hammers, had a look at a Boss hammer and the base was very light Endedup adding in one more leaf to the stack and giving it more preeload and it made it more stiff, then took it to the spring makers and they heat treated them, now it works niceley, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 I am nealy ready for the moment of truth, the flatbelt is ready to pick up tomrrow they say, put that on and will see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironstein Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Nice hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 It works, clutch system needs ajusting, only problem I have that motor running on single phase and it is hard to get spinning and when it slows down it will stop and I have to keep kicking it with the capacitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 for some reson the belt shrinks when the weather is damp, once the belt warms up it works well, I had to turn the belt tensioner pulley around. oh and I made a phase converter to run it on 3 phase, they have heeps of 3 phase motors as the scrap and 99.9% of the time they work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quebecblacksmith Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Nice work! It's seem to have good running. How many pounds is the ram ? It's like a old style Beaudry hammer, Did you inspired about that Hammer style? I just finished to built one 100 pounds mechanical power hammer. It's a good feeling that 's provide to see all your work result. Congratulations and good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Nice work! It's seem to have good running. How many pounds is the ram ? It's like a old style Beaudry hammer, Did you inspired about that Hammer style? I just finished to built one 100 pounds mechanical power hammer. It's a good feeling that 's provide to see all your work result. Congratulations and good work! Thank you, its about 30 pounds, it was inspired by a hammer called a Star and another one called a Perfect, I saw your hammer, that looks very nice, the belt drive works better than mine. and I like the way you have dovetailes for the dies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 After about 2 months hard forging it seems to be holding togeather quit well, it runs alot nicer now that it has run in, thinking about making a brake as it likes to keep hitting slowley after I take my foot off the bar. the belt likes to have soapstone chalk dust sprinkled on it, or its grabby. When I am forging 2" bar the bottom die heats up and I have to keep cooling it witch is quit anoying, thinking to making one pece H13 dies . They say H13 won't start going soft untill its a dull red? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 The hammer looks great! simple and reliable. Have you fastened down the hammer to the ground yet? In your older video you can see the whole thing rocking pretty good. If it if fastened to the ground you will get a great improvement in how much martial can be worked in one heat. More work in less time is good. Even though the bottom die is starting to get hot is the heat so great that the temper of the die is affected? If it is something like 4140 I would think it could reach 300% and still work fine all day. Hot dies will not suck heat from the martial being forged as fast as cold dies. But you do not want to soften the die from to much heat. You can buy temperature crayons. These crayons melt at set temps. So you could buy 3 of them one that melts at say 200 one at 300 and another at 400. Then you use them to see just how hot the die is getting. Your simple hammer makes me happy! Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 its bolted down to a concreat foundation i pored into the ground, it made a huge diffrence, the hammer guid is aluminium but was thinking about putting a bronze one in? Thats what I was worryed about, the dies are 4140, it was getting hot enough that when I pored watter on it was hissing, I might invest in some temperature crayons they are quit expincive tho. Glad it made someone happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 Here are some more forging clips I had some problems with the hammer but it turned out that the new grease I got was too thick and was gumming up the slide realy badley, also the cold was making the grease into glue. put some oil on it and the problems went away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 That is looking great! Are you considering any further modifications? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetreeforge Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 That is looking great! Are you considering any further modifications? Yes I need to make a brake as it slowley keeps going once you take your foot off the peddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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