Untame Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Howdy. B) First of all I'd like to thank woodsmith for introducing me to blacksmithing and this site. I picked up my first forge, and I'm just starting on restoring it. It was on my wife's family's farm, and it originally belonged to her great-uncle who passed away last year at the age of 92. I've tried to scour the place for other smithing tools, but I've come up with nothing. I understand that years ago (when he moved away from the farm) his anvil was sold at auction, so I'm assuming the other smithing tools were sold then as well -- but I'll keep poking around. The blower is a Canedy Otto Royal Western Chief. I'm planning on tearing it down today to start my rebuild. Is there anything in particular I should be mindful of while restoring this blower? Any tips are appreciated! If I can get the forge rebuilt this week maybe I can get my sword made next week... j/k. :D I was seriously impressed with the quality of the blower as I disassembled it. I wish you could still buy (or afford to buy) "Made in America" craftsmanship of that quality. The disassembly was quite straight-forward. I washed all of the parts in the parts washer then used the wire wheel on the bench grinder to polish up the hardware. I also polished the varnish off the gear shafts. Then I made a mistake. I was trying to decide how to strip the old paint off the castings and I opted for throwing them on the coals in our wood furnace. When I removed the gear housing it spilled lead (babbit?) on the floor. I had inspected the casting for pressed in bushes and didn't see any. I'm guessing that the lead might have been used as a bearing surface for the gear shafts. Anyone know for sure? While everything is cooling off I'm going to go work on the forge. Pictures to come soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Happy New Year, Don't be afraid of the blower, there shouldn't be any pieces that will fall out. It probably will just need a good cleaning and adding new oil, paint it pretty, use a LITTLE sealer/silicone on the case halves. A lot of peoples first project is a sword, mostly it is their last project. Walk before you run. Learn how to make your own tools and make them with quality and feeling. Don't try to do production/quantity, Learn control and quality, Make them look and feel good as well as functional. Make things that your family can use, that you can use. An anvil is something to hit on! Don't get caught up in what it looks like. Anything is better than nothing, a rock works! Don't be shy about being creative, you don't have to ask anybody permission to try something. You don't have to get opinions from this or any other forum unless you wish to be inundated with everyone's thoughts. Read a few different books, like "The Blacksmith's Primer" or similar. Randy explains things in understandable language and examples. Find someone or an Blacksmith Group near you, that you can work with and ask questions of. (almost all the Blacksmith Associations in North America are listed on the ABANA web-site) Enjoy the journey! it lasts a life-time and you will meet friends all along the way. Keep your eyes open and your mouth moving but not wide open. Learn with your eyes and ears, then your arms and hands. Enjoy, Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale M. Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 I was seriously impressed with the quality of the blower as I disassembled it. I wish you could still buy (or afford to buy) "Made in America" craftsmanship of that quality. The disassembly was quite straight-forward. I washed all of the parts in the parts washer then used the wire wheel on the bench grinder to polish up the hardware. I also polished the varnish off the gear shafts. Then I made a mistake. I was trying to decide how to strip the old paint off the castings and I opted for throwing them on the coals in our wood furnace. When I removed the gear housing it spilled lead (babbit?) on the floor. I had inspected the casting for pressed in bushes and didn't see any. I'm guessing that the lead might have been used as a bearing surface for the gear shafts. Anyone know for sure? While everything is cooling off I'm going to go work on the forge. Pictures to come soon.You are probably correct in that you have melted the babbitt out of bearing .... IT may be possible to have bronze bushing machined/fitted to shaft and housing to recover use of blower, a expensive lesson, but repairable.... Fix it and move on....Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 You are probably correct in that you have melted the babbitt out of bearing .... IT may be possible to have bronze bushing machined/fitted to shaft and housing to recover use of blower, a expensive lesson, but repairable.... Fix it and move on.... Dale I think it might have been from the crank shaft. I have some sintered bronze stock and a local shop that only charges $10/hour (students). I should be able to get something made for under $20. Here are a few more pictures. I'm going to replace the legs and add casters to make it more mobile. Any recommendations on the forge height? I removed the fire pot and there appears to be a cast ring under it that retains the clinker breaker. I have scraped as much rust as possible between the surfaces and knocked on it, but I'm not sure how to get it out. It almost looks like it is set up for some sort of spanner to turn and "unlock" it (from the tab cast into the forge on the right?). Suggestions? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 Serial number 70888 -- I wonder if it is possible to determine the date of manufacture from this number. Initials M.V. etched on the side of the gear housing by the serial number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 I think it might have been from the crank shaft. I have some sintered bronze stock and a local shop that only charges $10/hour (students). I should be able to get something made for under $20. It was definitely from the crankshaft. It slipped out tightly, but now it rattles around in a rather large hole. The casting where the babbit was is quite rough, so I might have to have it honed to prep for a bushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale M. Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 It was definitely from the crankshaft. It slipped out tightly, but now it rattles around in a rather large hole. The casting where the babbit was is quite rough, so I might have to have it honed to prep for a bushing.Sometimes its the price we pay.....Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 I got the blower halves painted. I used high-temp engine paint. From what I could tell after degreasing the castings the original color was red with gold lettering. I'm going to restore it with these colors. This afternoon I'm taking the gear housing to a machine shop to have a bushing fabricated for the input shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Some questions: There are a couple stampings that I'm wondering if they will help me to identify this specific forge. The weighted handle for the clinker breaker is stamped "10". The (twier?) is stamped 63 in large numbers, then 63 in small numbers above that as well as on the other side. Also, what are all the holes for in the bottom of the forge? I know one pair of them holds down the ring around the fire pot. There are three in a triangle back on the blower side, and then two that are symmetrical in front of the fire pot. All are counter-sunk underneath for a machine screw. Nothing was attached to them when I took it apart, but there were screws/nuts in each of these holes (that had rotted nearly in half). Finally, does this forge need to be clayed, and if so, how deep and what kind of clay? I've heard say that I can mix cat litter with water to make the clay. The machinist just finished boring the gear housing and fabricating a brass bushing. Next week I'll reassemble the blower. The forge, (twier?), and other parts have been blasted and painted with 2000 degree paint. Tomorrow I am going to make new legs with casters. I picked up a couple hoof nippers at an antique store for $5/$8. My first project will be to turn them into tongs. I still don't have an anvil. I've got a lead on a piece of track for $20. I might have to start there. I found a 105 pound Peter Wright locally for $250, but I can't afford it. Hopefully I'll be firing up in a couple weeks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Here are the tools I'm turning into tongs. The shorter one actually looks like some sort of puller (rather than a trimmer/clipper). The handles are a little on the short side, but it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Well, those nippers look like they'll do wonders if you reshape them a bit. I'd definitely narrow the reins on that upper pair right at the rivet junction. They're mighty wide and narrowing them down will give you a bit more handle to work with. Same could be said for the lower pair, but just not too much. Shaping the jaws can go any of a thousand directions depending on what you're working with. The cast iron forge pan would not be hurt by claying. Cheap, unscented kitty litter is 100% bentonite clay (says so right on the bag) and you can mix that with a bit of water to line the pan. Portland cement mixed w/ sand and wood ash works as well. I had a forge almost exactly like that and never lined it, but I wish I had of now because it would have made working in it a lot easier. The idea is to lay the clay in at least an inch thick so that the heat is more evenly distributed through the cast iron. This will prevent cracking due to differential heating in the metal, and it also gives you the chance to form a bowl around the air grate to focus the coals and raise the sweet spot of the fire a bit. You're doing a bangup job and I can't wait to see it finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Well, those nippers look like they'll do wonders if you reshape them a bit. I'd definitely narrow the reins on that upper pair right at the rivet junction. They're mighty wide and narrowing them down will give you a bit more handle to work with. Same could be said for the lower pair, but just not too much. Shaping the jaws can go any of a thousand directions depending on what you're working with. The cast iron forge pan would not be hurt by claying. Cheap, unscented kitty litter is 100% bentonite clay (says so right on the bag) and you can mix that with a bit of water to line the pan. Portland cement mixed w/ sand and wood ash works as well. I had a forge almost exactly like that and never lined it, but I wish I had of now because it would have made working in it a lot easier. The idea is to lay the clay in at least an inch thick so that the heat is more evenly distributed through the cast iron. This will prevent cracking due to differential heating in the metal, and it also gives you the chance to form a bowl around the air grate to focus the coals and raise the sweet spot of the fire a bit. You're doing a bangup job and I can't wait to see it finished. Thanks, Vaughn! There is a cast iron ring to install that I think is the "bowl" you are talking about. It stands about 1.5" tall. I'll do the kitty litter route and go about 1" deep. Before I do this I'd like to figure out what should be done with the holes. Right now my only plan is to fill them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 The holes around the perimeter are for bolting on a wind shield or hood, don't cover them as they are very handy for holding a tong rack even if you don't want/need a hood. The holes in the bottom are for mounting various types of blowers and gearing depending on the model forge that pan was going to be made into. I wouldn't bother plugging them as the clay isn't going to run out when you pack it in. The clay should be wetted just enough to hold a shape, but not runny wet. The more water you use, the more cracking you'll have as the clay dries out. Not a big problem, but... Don't know how I missed that ring in the first picture. I'd bring the clay up to just shy of the top of that ring so you don't have to worry about clinkers sticking to the clay, or the clay getting broken as you mess around in the fire. One thing's sure, you're going to have a dandy of a forge once you get it all painted and such! I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a lil' jealous!! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 I'm a newbie too and looking for a small forge like that. You are very fortunate to have that one in your family. I'm watching this thread and am enjoying watch you restore it. Keep posting photos, I can't wait to see it all finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 do not get the cheap kitty litter from Walmart in the blue bag.it is junk.2/3's or more shale or chat.messed up what little clay I had by using it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aljeter Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 any updates on this project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Just about finished! A few touches left for the blower, clay line the pan, and make a trap door for the clinkers. It's going to be a bear to carry it out of the basement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Looks great, very nice work. Was that firepot part of it or something you made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvereaglevaughan Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Looks good For some reason the third pic makes it look like it is one of those super detailed scaled miniatures. But that could jest be me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untame Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Looks great, very nice work. Was that firepot part of it or something you made? The firepot is original. Looks good For some reason the third pic makes it look like it is one of those super detailed scaled miniatures. But that could jest be me. I shot that at f/1.8 because of the low light in the basement, so it has a very shallow depth of focus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 "For some reason the third pic makes it look like it is one of those super detailed scaled miniatures." I was thinking the exact same thing! It's amazing what a skilled shooter can do with a camera! Looks great, U. Don't forget to clay the pay so that cast iron doesn't crack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhicks2013 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Those pictures look great nice job I love seeing old things get restored to working condition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 I would go the portland cement/sand route when claying. You've done such a fine job so far, i'd hate to have it blemished with poor quality kitty litter. The cement mixture has held up well for me. Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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