Kevin W Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Hey All, Maby this is better suited for the weld/fab section... but,as I'm trying to price a table... Has any one out there used a port-a-band to cut a half lap joints in large mild steel ? Particularly in 2 1/2" solid, thats one cut @ 2 1/2" long and one @ 1 1/4". Any one care to venture a time estimate?? I don't own one, and can only immagine this would take longer than I'd guess, and use some blades. There are 18 such cuts to make so opportunity to shoot myself in the foot (a feeling I'm all too accustom to). I'm a one man shop, my sloppy 50lb LG would be problematic, treddle hamer- HA, saddly I've no press. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I would cut cut 3-1/2 thick plate with propane / Ox torch porta saw will take forever I think you can buy a propane tip for a victor ac/ox cutting torch head $20.-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Call around the contractor rental yards. You may be able to rent a Porta-band for a day or week, good blades run $5-10 each, and will last for hours with good technique. Or seconds without. Before you buy, check out an industrial supply catalog for a real industrial tool. Many companies now have two similar models: the USA made version sold to pros, and the import clone sold in DIY stores, with cheaper parts, like plastic gears instead of brass. Sometimes the only recognizable difference is the model number. (One company uses M on the end to denote Mexico.) A name brand tool that will last for years is worth the price paid, and this one job should easily cover the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 The blades "tooth per inch" will make a huge difference in time - use accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I think a cut off wheel in a grinder would be more effective than a hand held band saw in thick steel like that. Then use a grinding wheel and file to clean up the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin W Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Thanks for the input folks,John, I've needed a porta band for a long time now and ,yes, the job would cover it. So long as the customer wants to pay for the solid material (the radi on tubing I'd like to steer them away from). Iron W., I've got the bottles and tip for the cutting but suspect it will take me nearly as long to clean up the cut as it would to saw it. Jeremy, as few as possible without jumping around and breaking , yes? Timothy, cut off wheels like to grab or glaze up on me, sometimes it me and other times its not. Thanks again, I'm guessing 30 min with my finger on the trigger would do one...... :unsure: Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Kevin - It will take no were near 30 minutes each. I'd think 10-15 min. tops including layout of cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I think a cut off wheel in a grinder would be more effective than a hand held band saw in thick steel like that. Then use a grinding wheel and file to clean up the joint. I thought you were Mr. Safety Tim :D Cutting a 2 1/2'' solid with a hand held (it would have to be a big one) grinder would be very dicey cause the likelyhood of binding/breaking the blade is almost certain with stock that wide and that could make for a very bad day.... Does the table need to be made from solid? 2 1/2'' solid gets real heavy fast even on a small table, heavy wall pipe might be a better route....A rental saw would be my choice cause they'll likely have a good one...Just don't burn it up.... :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin W Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 Hey Frank, too funny, and hows it go ' my favorite thing about deadlines is that wooshing sound they make as they fly bye ' I hope to translate that German sign of yours b-4 I loose track of it compleatly. Macbruce, lookin like I'll use tubeing after all. A money thing for the customer ( it'll save my back some trouble too ). I just like the look of solid material especially as this table is getting a "Heat Patina" aka left in the forge too long. Scale makes a good anti-splatter. Jeremy, good to know, thanks. Oh well, thanks again for the input folks. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Using tube, you can forge down the sides to square up the corners so as to give it the appearance of solid material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Just an FYI- I have not seen a porta bandsaw or operator who could cut accurately over 1" long in large material. They LOVE to wonder even with a fresh blade.... Consider an upright bandsaw.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Just an FYI- I have not seen a porta bandsaw or operator who could cut accurately over 1" long in large material. They LOVE to wonder even with a fresh blade.... Consider an upright bandsaw....This is why a suggested using a cut off wheel. The guy has few tools. Go slow be careful it can be done Just don't push it too far and it should not bind up. I hate cut off wheels but they are effective tools if you don't mind the noise, dust and sparks. I once saw a differential gear that had been artfully cut in half at 45 degrees by Hoss Haley. He said he used a cut off wheel to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry H Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 I have used an old chop saw wheel, (3/32) on a 7" Milwaukee angle grinder to cut one of those street sewers ( 2-3" thick) a little nerve racking, but the job got done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 I have used an old chop saw wheel, (3/32) on a 7" Milwaukee angle grinder to cut one of those street sewers ( 2-3" thick) a little nerve racking, but the job got done I've done this as well but I don't recommend it. If you can rotate the pipe that's different, if not the likelihood of pinching and putting a side load on a wheel that wasn't ever intended for that is cause for concern. After a wheel has been pinched it's likely been damaged then when it's brought back up to speed the xxxx can hit the fan.....This brings up another issue that is something I won't say I don't do but implying it's ok to use an old chop saw blade that was 14''designed to run at 3500rpm is ok to run at 6000 on an angle cause it's been worn down to say 10''......It's fairly common practice but there is real risk....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluidsteel Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Honestly, for a couple hundred bucks or less buy a horizontal 4"x6" bandsaw. Turn it on and walk away. Come back when the cut has finished.... I cut a piece of forklift tine at work Friday on our horizontal 9" saw. The piece was 2-1/2"x5" and it took around 15 minutes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Furrer Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I suggest this tool: http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw-w-Swivel-Head/G9742 $550 I used (still do) the deep throat variable speed milwaukee port-o-band saw...gone through three or four in the past few decades. It was may main saw for about ten years. The I was given a 4x6 central machinery stand alone saw and a few years later it broke (gear teeth in gear box wore down). So I bought the above mitering saw from Grizzly...coat $429 at the time. It worked well for years and then I traded it for some stuff and replaced it with a used 1600 Ellis saw. The only issue I really have with the Ellis is that the blade is twisted to increase tension and you can only cut about 9" in the vertical position. For the cuts you wish to do I suggest the grizzly saw above. It allows you to cut miters and such rather easily which mans simple work for frames. The first cut I did on mine with a new blade was through 2x4" thick bar...cut well. For fabrication you will really like a "good" saw (good of course may be a $10,000 auto feed saw for some on this list), good drill press and a good welder (TIG,MIG or STICK). I notice that unless I am doing something from a the strict traditional side of things then I end up touching one or all of these tools. Side note: I bought a used 5hp 14" abrasive saw on craigslist for $400...works well for lopping off things as well. If you do not mind the noise, sparks and dust you may look into one of those as well. I use it a lot for tool steel cuts on parts I have forged, but not done post heat treatment....such things will usually make a band saw dull in a hurry. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 For fabrication you will really like a "good" saw (good of course may be a $10,000 Side note: Horse feathers! I suggest this tool, 10X more versatile, way more accurate than light industrial HZ folding saws like Ellis imo......Roll in for me, had one 15 yrs and love it.... B)http://www.ebay.com/...=item27c9bdaae4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Furrer Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Macbruce, I used one of those for three years in Florida...good saw. A bit tricky lifting large bars up that high for slicing tough...had the roller stand kick out once and had to chase a bar to the ground. If one were to come up in the $500 range (what I paid for my used 1600 Ellis) then I would buy it as well. I was thinking a "good" saw was something like this one: http://www.sawing.com/m380.html If your job is sawing you need it to be a good one. My jobs are mostly forging so I have a 3B Nazel and 45 ton forging press (the 160 ton press is being assembled). Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poleframer Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Get an old heavy all metal worm drive saw (skilsaw), I have an old porter cable thats been around a whiile, use 7" cutoff disks in it. They are torquy and about 4400 rpm, no glazing the disks at that speed. I use it for most thicker solid stock, truck axles, etc that are too hard or thick to do other ways, I've cut through two and a half inch hydraulic cylinder rods in a few minutes, nice straight cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin W Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 Pole farmer, interesting, do the haploid saws survive the grit better, are they by nature sealed up tighter, or maby its just a good old saw. Its the rip cut (lengthwise) cut thats the thing.I've got sawing and cutting options in the shop, just nothing thats very well suited for that cut. I personally think you get a good tool 'for the money' from Grizzly. Like the look of that saw. Not familiar at all with the roll in saw, is that a band saw with a moving table? It looks like quality. That "good" saw looks more like a turn-key "business" to me and sawin' ain't ma job. ( Just don't have any customers that need 20' long this and thats) Poppycock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poleframer Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Either would do it, bandsaw is nicer. With a skilsaw, to cut the long cut, weld a stub at right angle on the piece you'll cut off, put it end up in a vise and cut. A guide tacked on would help, run the base of the skilsaw on it. After that cut, set flat, adjust the shoe, cut the piece off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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