I thought this anvil was cast iron but after I set it on the new anvil stand it has a fairly good ring to it. It weighs between 200-300 lbs. Any ideas? I'll try and take some better pictures tomorrow.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Add sand to where it is just below level with the rim of the can. It should kill the ring of the anvil. You can then use the sand to hold punches etc by putting them point down into the sand for safety. Be real careful about the rim of the can being a pinch point.

Some of the Trentons have a fairly thin heel and slender horn such as yours.

Long heel and horn, somewhat narrow face I would go with Trenton, but Hay Budden is another possibility. Neither of these brands are cast however, both are forged (well, the base may be cast steel, and welded at the waist, the horn and heel are forged out.)

If that is an obvious mold parting line on the cutting plate and horn, that funny white line, you may have a cast copy based on a Trenton or Hay Budden. I presume this line is why you said "cast iron" (also the lack of pritchel holes.) Many of these copies come out of Mexico, and occasionally they are good steel and good anvils.

Phil

Long heel and horn, somewhat narrow face I would go with Trenton, but Hay Budden is another possibility. Neither of these brands are cast however, both are forged (well, the base may be cast steel, and welded at the waist, the horn and heel are forged out.)

If that is an obvious mold parting line on the cutting plate and horn, that funny white line, you may have a cast copy based on a Trenton or Hay Budden. I presume this line is why you said "cast iron" (also the lack of pritchel holes.) Many of these copies come out of Mexico, and occasionally they are good steel and good anvils.

Phil

Thanks Phil! This anvil is a minimum age of fifty years old. I bought it from a buddy who is 60 years old and it belonged to his Father. He remembers his Dad having it when he was a kid. I'll go out today and try and get you some more info and maybe we can solve the mystery. :)

Add sand to where it is just below level with the rim of the can. It should kill the ring of the anvil. You can then use the sand to hold punches etc by putting them point down into the sand for safety. Be real careful about the rim of the can being a pinch point.

That is a great idea, thanks!

Heel sure looks to thin for HB, much more trenton in shape. Very odd theres no pritchel hole

Just me or is there a seam center line of the cutting table?

Ever heard of "Buyer Beware?" What makes you think that cast iron ASO's and outright forgeries are a recent trend? Only the country of origin has changed over time, and only because we no longer have foundries in every town these days due to EPA reg's.

It just might be a quality casting made by a competent foundry-man with time on his hands, and some extra high quality metal left in the pot after a big pour. It might even have a tool steel face. Sometimes "government" jobs for friends, or a little spending money, get done at the end of a shift. Weld shops are where the after hours action is today.

The profile is all wrong for a factory cast anvil like a Fisher or Vulcan, who understood the limits of castings. But the lack of marking, lack of a pritchel hole, and especially the unfinished casting seam screams forgery to me, even in a lo-res photo. Please, feel free to prove me wrong.

And unfortunately human memory is a slender reed to base things on. I have personally seen a lot of "family anvils" that dated quite differently from when they were "supposed" to.

And unfortunately human memory is a slender reed to base things on. I have personally seen a lot of "family anvils" that dated quite differently from when they were "supposed" to.

True, but it does have 'some' age to it.

I once talked with a smith that had some anvils cast using armor plate from a ship right after WWII as the source material. We're not the only generation to get the idea of casting our own anvils!