Grant Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Good Morning All - It is to be hoped that this post finds everyone prosperous. I would like to update the motor and controller in this Buffalo Forge No. 2E electric blower, so I'm looking for guidance. I looked at Granger's Site and there are pages and pages of motors and most of it is Greek to me. The motor shaft is 12", I couldn't find a HP rating, but the tag did say it would run on anything including corn liquor. I don't know how the paddles are fixed to the shaft, but I can tear her down when that becomes an issue. Any help is appreciated. -grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 OK, ... for now, I'll assume we're talking about single speed AC motors, ... ( however, your reference to a "controller" give rise to some doubt about that assumption. ) The first photo shows us that there is no keyway showing, in the end of the motor shaft. But there does appear to be one showing in the fan bore, ... ( although I'm uncertain about that, because a keyway would not normally be positioned under the fin, ... but rather, between the fins, to facilitate access to a set screw.But this is also uncertain, due to the thin wall of the fan hub.Perhaps the keyway had to be positioned in an unconventional fashion, to keep from compromising the strength of the hub, while maintaining a light weight fan. ) If, in fact there is a keyway in the fan hub, then it's safe to assume that there's a corresponding Woodruff Key, in the Motor Shaft. The replacement Motor could use either a Woodruff Key, ... or a straight keyway. I can't make out anything from the photo of the spec plate, ... but it probably doesn't matter all that much anyway. What's important, is what do you want from the NEW motor. We need more information about that, before going forward. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 Good morning SmothBore et-all First let me update the original post, including a thumbnail of the original rheostat The motor tag reads: Buffalo Motor Will operate on either direct of alternating current 25-40-50-60 cycles voltage same as rheostat which must always be used with motor No. 45050 Type 2E Buffalo forge Co Buffalo N.Y. I would like an updated variable speed motor. In Jose Gomez post "Super-Charged Side Draft Forge", Jose writes, "recently a friend of mine gave me a newly rebuilt giant electric Champion blower with a new variable speed motor that he had laying around". Included in this post are 2 thumbnails of Jose's forge. This is what gave me the idea that such a thing was possible. As SmothBore suggested the tag is of little help in deturming the hp of the motor or is operating RPM range. -grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Okay, it's a brush motor, maybe with diodes to make internal power DC but I don't know. Were I trying to use it I'd take it to Hayden Electric, the most trusted electric motor guys in Anchorage and let them do their thing. I have an old Buffalo motor that's 500rpm AC/DC but replaced it with a 1728 1/3hp AC motor and it works a treat. I regulate air with a damper and let the motor do it's thing. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 Thanks Frost Man for the reply Do I understand you correctly; you are direct driving a paddle style fan at 1728 rpm using 1/3 HP and it "works a treat". I have no idea what RPM this style of fan/blower combination will cavitate, come from together or crash the impeller into the case. So I'm moving delicately. A little background may be helpful. I may need to switch from coal to coke this summer for Demos and think I might need to have an idle air blast configuration to keep the coke going when I'm doing more talking than working. Also with either solid fuels it would be conscious to be able to more completely burn the smoke especially on start up; Jose's configuration with maybe with a little propane induced into the burner (air nozzle in the stack) on startup. Any who thanks again for the reply. Enough rambling, -grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 An idler air blast is no problem with the slide valve arrangement, just drill a small hole (5/16") to allow air flow when in the fully closed up to a stop positionIf you are going to be using coal and coke at different times in the forge, you can make the slide slighlty longer and have a closed position between the open and idle positions, or just turn the motor off if convenient when using coal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Good Morning All Thanks John. That is an elegant solution for an idle circuit. I would like to confirm the optimal impeller RPM and see how close I can match it with a contemporary motor. I had hoped someone had some experience with this and we could have a consensus, however some testing seems to be in order. On a worm drive if one divides the number of starts on the worm into the number of teeth (for lack of a better term) minus 1 on the worm gear do you get number of worm revolutions per rotation of the worm gear? -thanks all grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosspein Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Did you ever get this thing running? I recently picked up a 2E blower, and after pulling it apart to clean up the blower itself, I'm wondering if I should replace the motor. (If for no other reason than to update the cotton insulated wiring). It was a bear to get the rusted screws apart. The vanes are held be a set screw, no keyway. My motor runs, but squeaks a little, making me wonder how much longer it will "live". Aside from getting or building some crude tachometer, I don't know how to get the rpm of this thing, although I suspect that it will vary with voltage. **Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Renaud Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Good morning SmothBore et-all First let me update the original post, including a thumbnail of the original rheostat The motor tag reads: Buffalo Motor Will operate on either direct of alternating current 25-40-50-60 cycles voltage same as rheostat which must always be used with motor No. 45050 Type 2E Buffalo forge Co Buffalo N.Y. I would like an updated variable speed motor. In Jose Gomez post "Super-Charged Side Draft Forge", Jose writes, "recently a friend of mine gave me a newly rebuilt giant electric Champion blower with a new variable speed motor that he had laying around". Included in this post are 2 thumbnails of Jose's forge. This is what gave me the idea that such a thing was possible. As SmothBore suggested the tag is of little help in deturming the hp of the motor or is operating RPM range. -grantwith the 20-40-50 -60 listing you give and the ac/dc this sound like an early 1900s motor made to work with wind generators like jacobs etc.i have run across this same style motor on early sewing machines and they were for use before standard electrical power.I think this is the case with your blower motor.Your best bet might be to contact an electric motor rebuilder in your area for information on setting yours up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 You could always use an engine timing light to count the revolutions of the fan once you get it running. Any auto parts store should have one in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.