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We have Amit Har-Lev coming to our shop this summer and the boss wants to order a new anvil before Amit arrives. We're just a regular ornamental iron shop that is getting more and more into the blacksmithing side of the business. Bossman is specing out a 200lb anvil, and I'm currently looking at the TFS line. So far it's between the standard 200lb single horn anvil and the 200lb "Smithy" double horn anvil. The double horn has a nice flat secondary horn, and a little side shelf off to the side. Both have 1" hardy holes. Anyone know what the little side shelf is used for? Anyone want to steer me in a different direction? Boss is a little hesitant to buy anything used, so ATM we're shopping for a new unit. Thanks guys!!!!

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Look at the NIMBA centurion, 260lb.If I was buying new I would love to have that one. I use a "Euro" anvil at school every day, it has side shelf and upsetting block like the TFS. While I do use both of those features on the anvil I find more time than not they are in the way. I would prefer to just have a hardy tool for the shelf and just set a block of steel on a stump for a upsetting block.

Think about the centurion

http://www.nimbaanvils.com/

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I wouldn't get something as light as 200lb. 250-300lb is going to have more utility to heavier work. This is based on the, "It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it," philosophy. Nimba is a top notch modern anvil, an excellent choice.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Do you use tools in the hardy hole much? If you do I would definitely recommend against any anvil that has the hardy hole butted right up to the horn. Being so close to the horn it can be vary unpleasant to have large hardy tools that hang over the horn.

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MLM- I do often use hardie tools. For the record, I've never used either a Nimba or a Fontanini. Just like the way the latter looks. I would imagine that the pritchell hole over the horn on the Nimba is on par with the hardie hole near the horn on the Fontanini. More than one way to skin a cat after all, you could simply turn the tool around or approach the anvil from a different direction. It seems more in keeping with the original question to point out the positive details of modern anvil design rather than detract from other folks observations. Both of the above anvils are made in the USA with top notch material and manufacturing technique. My understanding is that Jymm H. from the previous post also makes a darn good anvil, so let's hear from smiths that like his!

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The guy I buy coal from sometimes has the big 460lb rathole from Fontanini and I look forward to seeing it every time. I would go for one of those or http://www.blksmth.c...haus_Anvils.htm The guys at yesteryear have the biggest anvil available, 1200+lbs, and they highly recommend that brand. I would too after hammering on one that weighs as much as a small car!

Fontaninis are just so pretty though, http://blacksmith.org/forums/threads/1127-Cha-Ching!-New-Fontanini-460-pounder!

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ML Martin said "Do you use tools in the hardy hole much? If you do I would definitely recommend against any anvil that has the hardy hole butted right up to the horn. Being so close to the horn it can be very unpleasant to have large hardy tools that hang over the horn. "

That is only if you are used to the placement on a London pattern anvil, on the continent, they are used to it the other way around. The Hofi, Fontanini, Habermann and Euroanvil brands all have the square hardy at the front. One of the many warnings to newbies using the London pattern is to take the hardy cutter out as soon as you are through, so you don't accidentally lop off your pinky.

We don't drive on the wrong side of the road here, why do we mindlessly want to copy other English patterns? :huh: (Full disclosure: as a proper tartan clad Gael, I used to hate the English. Then I found out that half of them were female. :D )

My two cents worth of advice: If you are going to all the trouble to have a smith of great caliber come a long way to your shop and train your crew, ASK *HIM* WHAT HE WANTS and needs for the week!!! I would think that you are going to need at least TWO anvils and solid stands, one for him to demo on, and one for each student. Having ALL the right sized tools, stock, etc. ready to go will save his and your valuable time tooling up. And you can probably sell it for what you have in it if you change your mind. But if you spend a week tooling up for an undersized anvil that will not meet your long term goals, it will cost you much more than the purchase price in lost labor.

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Yes many people are use to the hardy hole right next to the horn, but many are not. Just because the anvils I use are called Euro anvils does not mean they are the standard for European anvils. Most older anvils where ever they come from around the world had the hardy hole on the other side of the the anvil away from the horn. Yes there are a few that have it there but not the majority. The hardy right on the horn generally seems to be a modern addition. And I have seen that the Nimba anvil has the pritchal hole right on the horn, Sigh..... I think its a poor place to put it, but with anything you buy made by someone ells you always compromise. I use the hardy hole way more than the pritchal so I would just have to get use to it being on the horn, or maybe there is the potability of contacting Nimba and having the pritchal drill behind the hardy instead of in the horn.

Regardless of all this these are just my opinions after using a number of different anvils for the past 8 years. Some people may only want to point out good things about new anvils but I think its silly not the discus things that some people see as problems and may help some one chose one anvil over another. I did not intend to make people mad but I guess that's pretty much imposable if you type anything on the internet.
Good luck with the new anvils fellows!

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So today we drove a few hours north to a guys place that was retiring and selling off most of his collection. We ended up buying a really nice looking 345lb Peter Wright anvil, two post leg vises, a platen table, a bunch of the platen stake anvil things that drop into the table, a swage block, some big metal cone and some hammers. I can't wait to get the new blacksmith area setup!

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So today we drove a few hours north to a guys place that was retiring and selling off most of his collection. We ended up buying a really nice looking 345lb Peter Wright anvil, two post leg vises, a platen table, a bunch of the platen stake anvil things that drop into the table, a swage block, some big metal cone and some hammers. I can't wait to get the new blacksmith area setup!


So where the heck are you located! I met Amit at the ABANA conf. in Memphis, TN 2yrs ago. Great guy, you will enjoy working with him. I trained with Tsur at Tom Clark's school also. If you are interested in the Ozark Pattern Anvil I have Bob Alexander's phone #, send me a PM and I'll send you the #. The anvil is 275# and is a fantastic tool. I have used them and they are great to work on, you would do well by owning one.

Also good for you to come across this shop with all the tools!
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I bought the last 265 Ozark pattern anvil that Bob Alexander had in January. I know he is working on getting some more cast but not too many want to touch it and they are difficlt to cast. I absolutely love this anvil and the side shelf and upsetting block. I have not found the shelf to be in the way at all just another place to be able to work and more corners to work into which is always a good thing. I used the upsetting shelf to upset some 1" bars for a get QI have been worning on. Bob's contact info scruboak4@netzero.net of PH 636-586-5350.

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