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No, the Chinese comment was just a guess. I don't know that much about real Vulcan anvils. How are the Mexican anvils?

The question came up because the black paint is stinky when I hit it with a grinder, the Vulcan logo is messy and there are only two numbers on it, a "15" under the horn and a "54" under the tail. It seems like hard steel but no ring. Where are the weight numbers on Vulcans?

I have the pics to download. I'll get them in the AM.

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Here are some pics. I traded a smaller (100#) beatup Fisher for this (150#+) "Vulcan". My friend is not a blacksmith just wanted something to occasionally beat on some "stuff". This has great edges and good rebound. No ring. The Fisher was my first anvil purchase but pretty beatup and I'd never used it.The hardie hole is 1" and the pritchal is 9/16".

If this is a Mexican or other copy how can I tell if it's usable or if it's better off back with my bud?

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If it has good rebound why do you care? Vulcans and Fisher both have cast iron bodies Fisher being the higher quality of the two. I would be really surprised if anyone making cheap copies would put a hardened top on it to give you any rebound, which you say it has. Think harbor freight ASO. Is it the same rebound or better than the one you traded?
smiths opinion

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that looks like a true vulcan anvil looks like mine. they do not have a ring. the info i have found on them states that it was marketing geared for the neighbor hood smith. so he could still forge all day and not be so loud that the neighbors would complain. they are good anvils but are rougher castings to keep cost down. the only problem i have is the horn is short and odd shaped. alittle grinding with a flapper disc can reshape it some. mine is 150 lb and i do like forging with it. you will like forging with the heavier anvil.

as for the numbers , mine has the 15 and it is a 64 on mine not a 54. but it could be slag from the casting changing the 6 to a 5 or the 5 to a 6. your picure is a 54. i will recheck mine. the info i have is from a guide to anvils, www.balconesforge.org.

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If the paint is stinky and sticky (some paints stay this way forever) try some paint stripper on it. It was probably painted with some porch paint for outside display.

It looks like there is a steel face on it, so it is the real deal. You say it has good rebound, so you are in good shape.

Phil

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Yes I concur it's a proper vulcan. They were a lower quality producer than a lot of other makers and sold a lot to schools and farms where price was important.

They generally don't take abuse well. I have one on my wall of shame that has the horn broken off showing bad casting flaws. Do NOT grind on the face or horn as the steel layer is quite thin!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ditto what Thomas Powers said. I had in my possesion for a few years a 275 lb Vulcan and the cast body was pretty rough like yours. It ha a 1.25 inch hardie hole and it got a fair amount of use when I would have a hammer in and at the Rennaissance fair 4 weeks a year. They are servicable but the steel face is quite thin. It should be a pretty good anvil for you. The one I had sold for 300 a few months back and that was a good deal.

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Piggyback question: Is this one a "real" Vulcan?

It's a small anvil, only 45-50 lbs; I bought it as a "bench" anvil - wanted something heavier and flatter than my railroad track, and in the house. This is an ungraceful lump if ever I saw one, but it rebounds well (hammer comes up at least 1/3 of the drop distance, 3/4" ballbearing comes up about 80%), and it even has a little ring to it.

SO... whaddaya think ?

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-PeteH

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got to looking at this and if it was an out door display piece it might be covered in creasol? stuff is nasty I used to paint it on landscaping timbers. it takes forever to dry and stinks to high heaven when heated. you might find a tub or something large to soak it in to get that crap off. you will need a few gallons of mineral spirits (enamel reducer/stoddard solvent)

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