windancer Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I bought one of the outdoor bernzomatic torches JT850 Self-Igniting Outdoor Torch (JT850) for a little more heat when I don't want to fire of the forge. I want to 'mount' it in a fixed position so I have both hands free. I cut down the tube and moved everything up to shorten the length. It now will not burn at all. My last try is you guys- can WE fix it or toss it out as a bad plan? Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 pictues might help us see wot you did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 a couple of questions, 1 did you accidently change up the fuel/ air ratio? and is the torch in a upright position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Burner length to diameter ratio is everything in a aspirated burner, be it torch or forge. You might be able to get a snug fitting sleeve and get it to work that way, with some tweaking. Then lock it in place with a set screw. Maybe we should start a new topic heading: "Are You Smarter Than a Sixth Grader Team of Professional Engineers?" Self-edited to delete additional snark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Most Benzomatic torches have the asperation ports built into the torch tip, however this one seems different. My question is - Is that clip on the extension tube the air port. If so try rotating it, it might be combuston air volume adjustmment. If it got closed when you were cutting it down that might explain the problem. If indeed it is the air port ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I borrowed one of those and was very disappointed in it. It would not run off of a hose to a bulk tank, and a 1# bottle was flat empty after 20-30 minutes of not enough heat output for what I was doing (burning driveway weeds, that was enough to do about 3 square feet) The person I borrowed it from used it for stripping VCT, he would warm the tile then shovel them off, and he said it worked quickly...if the right adhesive was under the tile. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
son_of_bluegrass Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I've taken a similar torch apart and found there is a screen inside. In my case, something left a cocoon over the screen. Is it possible when you shortened it, particles fell into the tube and are clogging it? Pictures and a more complete description of what you did would help. ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 If you toss it save the igniter and put in on your forge. Why does NOBODY put igniters on their propane forges? Use the barbecue(or small propane torch) igniter device,tap the side for the smallest spark plug you can find and hook to the igniter. Lots better than throwing burning paper in each time,etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windancer Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 I will get some pics tomorrow and post them. Thank you for all the suggestions. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windancer Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 I got out the weed torch for a pic today, and decided to try it again. It would light with the ignitor but then go back out. I lit the little hand-held torch to light it with and while fooling with it my brain finally kicked in and I realized that the normal working position for a weed burner is pointing down. Pointed it down, hit the ignitor and it fired right off and stayed lit. Sheesh! Not a full burn like I want but will try it with a larger regulator with higher gas pressure. Current pic attached. [or maybe not, until I read up on the procedure here to post pics- will add the pic if able later]. My shop has a low wooden ceiling and I am not comfortable with O/A indoors, so this [smaller that a normal] weed burner is to use when I don't want to fool with the forge [installed a large chimney/hood over the forge] for localized heat. Thanks for the suggestions.... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcostello Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Here I thought you would say," Are you smarter than a Blacksmith?":) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Honcho Gregory Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I do bbq compitions and get 1 of them to start the cooker. I really don't like it. It doesn't heat like I would've though it should and after the 1st few events it will not start without a stricker from my cuttin torch Just plain not happy with it. I'm goin back to my roofin torch (500,000 BTUs) that works like a dream. Get them at a weldin supply for about $80 Harbor Freight has 1 with self starter for about the same $$ My cookin buddy has 1 and loves it... it's 281,000 BTUhttp://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-with-push-button-igniter-91037.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 You mentioned a regulator. Is it intended to run with an external regulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windancer Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 I was talking about the problem with a buddy- he said he runs his weed torch straight from the bottle. Ran it with a straight hookup and it works exactly the way I had hoped. Lots more heat than the hand-held, not as much as the weed burners- perfect for my low wooden ceilings. Happy camper here- now have a good alternative to starting the forge for small, quick work. Matt- you were on the right track Thanks to all Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickman Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Dumb newbie question here, could one of these be used as is or lightly modified to run a 1 burner forge built from 6"x 3/8" wall pipe and with 1 or 2 inches of insulation, haven't ordered the kaowool and ITC yet. The forge body is 14" long. I do have a 2" sched 40 nipple welded in with set screws installed for holding a sidearm burner, just haven't bought everything for that yet either. Hope it is okay if I tag along on the OP's thead, if not let me know, or a mod can kill the post as I'll be offline for a day or 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 There are enough burners that can be built from plumbing fittings that can do what you want. Your forge body may be too narrow to be effective, it will only have a 2 inch diameter cavity after getting 2 inches of wool! My forge is made from stove pipe sheet metal, fastened with zip screws. My burner holder is made from a section of black pipe with electrical conduit rings to hold it in the shell. Same burner design in both those threads. Have a look. There are no dumb questions. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickman Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Yeah, I realized the size issue once I started reading up on the wool issue, thinking of going with only 1" of the wool and a good coating of either Plistix or ITC 100. I am also considering cutting the pipe in half and stretching it 4" in the horizontal plane with 1/4"x4" flat bar, would give me a 2" high x 6" wide cavity, 12" long. I think this might actually work for making knives, or small items, but I am just starting out and don't know for sure. I hate to waste the time and work put into this one already but I am not a fan of throwing good money away. Might make a nice small portable BBQ grill... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Stove pipe (or sheet metal). Cheap, easy to work, suitably durable. This is just a container to hold insulation, a burner, and fire, it does not need to be heavy gauge, just adequate. People have used kaowool with chicken wire or no shell for temporary applications. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickman Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 yeah, the reason behind using what I did was durability, figured I wouldn't need to worry about it falling apart and big bonus, cost me nothing to have made...I tend to be cheap when starting a new hobby, still kicking around the mini smoker/ bbq pit idea. I could increase the internal volume a significant amount by going to 1" of wool, coat with satinite, topcoat with Plistix, and hard firebrick in the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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