Bigred1o1 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 recently i acquired a 100lb 5 x 5 1/2 by 13 block of stainless steel i think its 4018 or a comparable proprietary stainless steel anyways since i currently do not have a really solid clean anvil i was thinking about getting a piece of tool steel to weld to one of the 5x5 ends and make a small but solid anvil out of it would i be better off trying to find a some place that would take that stainless in trade or just to buy a piece of i am thinking 5x5x1 inch steel and make something that way i have a nice piece of 6x6 steel tubing i am thinking i could fill with sand to make a nice adjustable height stand with anyways i am just looking for any thoughts as to alternative ways to do this or if the SS is better used ells where thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Get a hardened steel ball bearing, about 1 inch diameter, and check the rebound on it first. If it is 50% or better, just use it. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 its not and it is a bit on the soft side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 4140, 5160, other medium to high carbon steels at least 1/2 inch thick. Some hardface buildup rod report good surface hardness without cracking, and unlimited passes. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I have replated a few anvils and used plain spring steels for the tops. If I was buying "new" material I'd stick with 50-70 point, simple carbon steels. On the other hand, I think it would be a lot less work to get a block of carbon steel and harden one face... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Depending on the stainless you have welding may be problem...A ..good experienced welder may be ablet er done. I have wleded ss and carbon but never tired welding them to each other. That is a good size chunk of steel and if you give it a good solid stand may work just as is even if softer than youi may end up with later. You can take out dents to a point with a tune up with a grinder. Keep an eye out for an anvil,,use this and learn hammer control, fire management and all the things that fo with forging. Lot of us started on something lesser than wot you have now..They taught us well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 as one of the few that was nutz enough to weld SS and carbon, I can tell you that it aint a cake walk. I have no idea what 4018-SS is. Use it as is, hot steel is still very soft compared to any cold steel. but look around anvils are available, then ya sell this SS block and use that to off set cost of the anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 i have a 125 fisher with bad feet but it was neglected before i got it and while usable it will never really be right this was more i have been looking for a larger 200lb+ anvil that will be my workhorse anvil in the farm shop and i had a small hope that i could take this turn it on end and have a very strong anvil i could do some heavy work on that was the idea behind trying to face it with say a-2 toolsteel or the like but i had not considered that the metals would be so dissimilar and i will just turn it into a light finishing anvil i guess and keep looking for a real replacement but on the plus side you saved me 40 or so buck i was going to spend on a piece of tool steel and yes it would be less work hwoodridge but i the 100lb of SS and i was trying to make a omelet so to speak i live in a very small town with not much in the way of heavy industry outside of farming and while i have had the word out to the large truck garages and several of the farm equipment places to keep an eye out for large lumps of steel for me so far i have had no luck and the nearest "real" scrap yard is a hour and a half away and with a truck that gets 11mpg empty or full that's a bit expensive to keep popping in on as for crossing the border to canada i have been reluctant as the border is a far larger hassle than it used to be .. still there is a fabrication shop i am hoping to get up to one i can track down my passport that i have some hopes to be able to do a trade for the ss or work something ells out anyways thanks for the recommendations guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Good news/Bad news. Short answer: Yes, SS can be welded on with carbon steel rods. No, it probably will not hold up under the hammer. Long answer: If SS is such a wonder metal, ever wonder why you never see (quality) swords, springs, chisels, punches, drill bits, hammers, etc. made from it? Lacks impact resistance and/or hardness. Hofi had an anvil cast from SS and it broke. Use tool steels for tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Want a big chunk of steel that`ll give you various surfaces to hammer on? Go to the closest RR repair yard and ask about a coupler knuckle. It`s one of those BIG chunks of carbon steel that couples two cars together. Heavy,good steel,lots of useful flat and non-flat surfaces to try. If you are dead set on an anvil then get an anvil,you won`t be happy until you do. If you want to pound iron then start getting your mind around the idea of using something other than an "anvil" to beat on and look in RR yards,heavy equipment yards,mining and pipeline yards,etc. IME rural folks have a better chance of finding large,useful chunks of steel than most urban dwellers. You ended up with that big chunk of SS didn`t ya? That`s a rarity even here on the Maine coast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 i am not dead set on another anvil i am more looking for the large mass to use in the mean time as i have stated i have a fisher but it is not in the best shape this was more of a looking for options as to a rural folks having a better chance thats a nice thought but if you are rural enough things like RR repair yards to exists at least not around me the supplies for the RR are kept at the local grain yard and they only have spare track and no couplings but over all i am going to ask the next times i see some people out working on the track those knuckles are a very handy shape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I don't know if he is still using it but Brian Brazeal once had a big piece of plate steel that he used for portable demo's. It was set on edge in an angle iron frame with various shapes available for forging and was a very useful tool since some of your normal bottom hardy shapes like fuller and side butcher were already there (visualize a solid swage block with no thru holes). If you found a piece of plate that was 16"x16"x3" thick, it would weigh about 218 lbs and potentially give you 4 different surfaces just on one edge that are 4"x3" in surface area. Unless you are handling very large work, this would be a handy setup for general forging. Maybe Brian will chime in with a better description since it was his idea in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Something like this? http://www.speedymetals.com/ps-1168-121-3-4140-hot-rolled-as-rolled-plate.aspx Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Something like this? http://www.speedymetals.com/ps-1168-121-3-4140-hot-rolled-as-rolled-plate.aspx Phil Persackly...cheap too, compared to a lot of anvils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Have you thought about using the anvil you have? You said it has bad fet but not sure wot that means. if it means that it will not sit or cannot be clamped to a stuimp; maybe sitting it in a pot of sand would work? Can you sit it on a thick plate of steel and bolt it from the bottom or weld it to that plate?. Someone else can comment about welding on the base of that anvil. Then you could attach it to a stand like a stump. and go to work.If the face of your anvil looks bad to you. consider using it as it is for a while as you develop skills and you may find it is better than it looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 that is a very sweet websight thanks phil rich the anvil i have that i do use i have made a steel box out of 3x4 half inch thick angle iron and then welded it in place with 1/2 x 1 straps but as i have used it more of the bottom has given way and i now have to shim it to get it tight this anvil sat in the dirt for over 40years before i got it and has had some significant rusting out of the bottom as well as pitting along the horn between the the hardface top and the softer body of the the horn that i really need to get around to fixing i have used it for 10years or so but over all i would really like to upgrade i will always keep it though as it will become a anvil to keep over at the welding table and a secondary anvil for if anyone ells wants to do some forge work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 mild steel , stainless or even bronze will make a great anvil for hot work.......ball bearing rebound really does not tell us much when you are looking for an anvil for hot work . mass is a much more important part . if the material wears over time clean it up with an angle grinder , if it starts chipping be ware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I can offer a service you need badly for the anvil you have. It is like a retirement home for tools and other items that we do care for and would like to see treated with respect for infinity. It will be either dislpayed in a soft lit area or in a darker place of you prefer. It will be tenderly wiped down and given a coat of protective ren wax such as used in the nicest of museums on a regular basis. It will never hear harsh words or feel the crushing blows of top tools again. This will of course , as much as I would like to be able to,,not be for free. You ship anvil at your expense and we can negotiate the monthly fees. I can provide you with yearly pictures of your treasure for the prices we will itemize in our contract. If at any time in the future you wish to have this fine piece returned it will be done promplty at what I consider fair market price for my lack of income, packing and shipping. The package will go out as soon as we get the money transfer taken care of. I can also offer this very limited opportunity fro those of you that may have a vintage guitar, Martins for instance. Humidity controls, occasional playing to see they are at inner piece within themselves and to reduce the seperation anxiety that may, allthough not documented, have an affect on the very core of who they are and the impact they have left in thier trails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 true basher i have been keeping a eye out of a large drop with just such a goal in mind i saved some large bush hog blades that are beyond fixing with the idea of using one of those for the face of the anvil i know now that trying to weld to the SS is a bad idea so i will keep on going as i am as to your insight rich i don't know if its sarcasm or humor but i think i will pass on this o so witty offer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petermexico Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Use 309 tig or mig I use all the time ro weld carbon to stainless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Peter, you do know that it needs to be a full penetration weld so the entire face is weled to the entire base. Usually this is done by putting a sacrificial piece along the long axis in the middle of the base face to offset the applied face and allow the entire slot to be welded solid, grinding out the off setting piece once the weld is sufficient to hold it in place and welding from the other side as well. I don't know how well tig and mig would work in this case as the slot would need to be wider to get the handpieces down in it... BTW I work in Mexico and live in the USA; if you visit the El Paso/Juarez area give me a shout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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