monty Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Brian’s Striking Block Size: Block = 10” Long X 4” wide X 3” thick = Total of 100 Sq. Inches that totals at 120 cubic inches doesnt it? correct me if i am wrong monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 block is about 34 lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 You is correct! - Brain/finger cramp! Thank you for picking that up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I "Had" to stop by the scrap yard today on the way home and picked up a chunk measures 9 inches long by 4 1/4 wide by 3 1/4 thick 37 lbs. Now I need to get to the water jet guy can not seem to attach picture error 500? How far from the end did you put the hardy hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unforgivun Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Ok. This idea has come up for me. Currently I have a 2" thick 6"x14" plate. My question is, would it be feasible to cut it in half and make 2 small striking anvils, 6x7" and 2" thick? Would look something like this I know its small, but it would leave you with a 5" by 6" area to work if you take out for the hardie hole and pritchel hole. That's with leaving 1" buffer on either side of those. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Yes it is feasible, as long as your stand backs it well. But I would suggest that you consider moving the hardy hole closer to center to support your billets while driving drifts when forging larger tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unforgivun Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Something more along these lines? Or actually pretty well centered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Now your pritchel hole is in the way. When you drive your drift before you have cheaks, you want to be able to support your peice by moving it side to side with each blow to not make marks with your hardy hole on the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unforgivun Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 And this is where my complete lack of experience becomes way to obvious Demensions wise, how far would you recomend having the hardy from the edges? Maybe move it in 1.5" instead of 1"? Should I leave it there and just move the pritchel either to an opposite corner or maybe closer to the edge itself? Thanks again for the time on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Moving the pritchel hole to the other side should do it, and it wouldn't hurt to move the hardy over just a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvmikeray Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Like this? - Hardy is 1 inch in and Pritchel is 9/16 inch in from the side. (1 Dia) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 That would work, also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unforgivun Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Ok then Looks like we have a plan. Thanks for the information Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I must admit to not knowing much about your method for forging hammers. I do however have a question about a sledge hammer specific anvil. I have been making a lot of axes recently and tend to save them up for when I have a helper come around and strike for me. I saw the tread on the Brian Brazeal striking leg vice and will be making a lower leg vice for striking, It is something I have wanted to do for years, so thanks for reinspiring me. I want However to combine it with a lower anvil so the whole rig has enough enertia to withstand hard blows . My question is about the mass of the striking anvil? would they not work a lot more efficiently if they were a lot heavier? or am I missing something. All the best Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Basher, Yes, it would be better to have more mass. The stand it is on makes alot of difference, too. My striking anvil was made to allow people who have never struck before make tools without worrying about harming a regular anvil. People will and have missed when striking. It is also safer becuase it does not have the rebound like a normal anvil, so when they do miss, they don't knock themselves out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I expect to be using that same technology from you when there is time available... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Here is a photo of mine I had a cone and welded it on for a horn and added tool holders I will have to add more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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