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stainless anvil


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I searched IFI for any information about stainless anvils. There is none. Is it not possible to cast and process (harden and temper) stainless anvils? There seems to be many questions about how to protect anvils left out in the open. Also googled stainless anvils. Haven't found anything yet.

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Yes it's quite possible; however you could buy a stack of regular steel anvils and just trash them when they got grungy and still probably come out ahead money wise.

You may notice there are tons of sites that discuss problems with cars rusting however nobody makes Ti bodied cars---it isn't worth the cost and hassle! (I was impressed with the Delorean's stainless body though...)

I frankly am puzzled by all the fuss and bother about anvils and their protection. I've been smithing for 30 years now in both dry and damp climates and never noticed that I needed to do anything but *use* an anvil to keep it looking good! Of course I'm inland so I can't talk of coastal corrosion aspects.

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My anvils stay outside all year long. After the initial patina is formed it doesn't really get any worse. I really see it as a non issue myself.

My anvil stays outside all year also. I just cover it at night to keep rain/dew off of it. When it was given to me there was evidence that it had been partially buried in dirt. There are no signs of it rusting away. We cleaned it up oiled it down and amazingly it looks the same today as it did when we cleaned it up. I haven't done anything special with it. I've thought about oiling it frequently but never seem to do it. Perhaps if it looked like it was corroding then it would clue me in to oil it.
I've also thought about painting it but it since it shows no signs of rust, why do it. Every now and then I do hit it with the wire brush to clean it up but no rust.
If it ever shows any signs of corroding, then I'll do something.

Mark<><
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Way back towards the "gilded age" Gold plating could be a cost savings as the "help" didn't have to spend so much time and effort polishing the silver faucets. (Learned this one at The Breakers a Summer "Cottage" in Newport RI; (cost more than 7 million US dollars in the 1890's! and had hot and cold running fresh and salt water in the bathrooms---who would be so gauche as to bathe in the sea *directly*!)

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The first 2 of Tom Clarks anvils were 440C stainless. The place that cast those anvils poured alot of 440C and talked Tom into trying it.
Long story short after a lot of heavy use the horn broke off at the hardy hole. Thought was the hole let quench thru and got it too hard
there. Had cracks in the corners of the hardy hole that suggest may have cracked during heat treat. I am not sure what happened to those
anvils. One may have went to Isreal.

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We are in a fairly warm (in the summer) and very damp area here. Anvils get a slight coating of rust but it isn't an issue. I just paint the sides. All the working surfaces take care of themselves. If I had to leave them for a prolonged period I might smear grease on them- but probably wouldn't bother.

Stainless is fine for some purposes but has its limitations. I think the 1% chromium in the alloy for some of my anvils is the reason why those ones don't rust as easily as the simple carbon steel ones. Certainly the alloy steel anvils are as hard as the carbon steel (if not harder) but are certainly tougher.

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Also regarding stainless steel cars- it is economics. Where is the advantage to a manufacturer of making a car which resists corrosion? The life of the vehicle would be far too long!

WIth vehicles also the factor of vibration and, therefore, work hardening comes into play. On tests a half hardened stainless resists projectiles virtually as well as a ballistic armour plate but it is unsuitable for vehicles as it can, and will, crack after time.

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