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Oxy acetylene equipment questions


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Going over my newly inherited equipment and I have some questions. The acetylene hose seems to be leaking between the nut and the brass ferule at the attach point to the torch. Otherwise the hose seems pretty aged. I reckon it's about 35 yrs old. It looks kinda dry with tiny alligator cracks. So I figure it'd be wise to replace it.

In looking online it seems that there are different types of fittings ("B and B" ?). The fittings at the torch end of the hose are smaller than those at the regulator end. See the pic - it doesn't include the regulator ends but those are standard I think.

So, here are my questions?

1. What is this type of fitting called? (so that I can be sure to replace it in kind).

2. Is there anything in particular that I should be concerned about with the torch itself? (I've thought about buying a new one but have seen that there are huge differences in prices online) Do these things have to be rebuilt from time to time?

3. The regulators. They seem to be working fine. Anything that I need to be concerned about there? When searching online for hose, I get numerous hits for kits that include torches and regulators, but I'm thinking that they might be cheapo products. Thoughts?

Thx muchly, Roger

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here is a coupleof things to remember.face tank valve in a safe direction and crack valve to blow out any thing on the face a short burst will do. acet. needs to be regulated below 15 psi because it is unstable at higher psi. usually 7 psi will work.it is recommended toback off regulators when not in use. i'm guilty of not doing it but ALWAYS stay clear of the T handle when you turn the tanks on. be safe.jimmy

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Looks like you got good answers so far. Do what Bob S. said, take the whole rig to your welding supply. They will sell you the correct hose for the gas you are using. Be sure to show them your regulators, they will then determine whether you have flashback suppresors or need to buy some. At under twenty bucks, you really need them. While there, ask for advice on cylinder safety and oxy-fuel safety in general. There are are a lot of little important things we take for granted. Have them explain the unique characteristics of an acetylene tank, and why it should never be used on it's side, opened more than 1 1/2 turns, or stored in a residence. Also ask them about the high pressure in the oxegen tank, and how, if not chained properly it could turn into an unguided missile and smash through a concrete wall, after flying the length of a football feild, under it's own propulsion.

Your torch looks like an oxweld or purox, good brand, but a small size, which is o.k. If the regulators are the same brand that is great, but often sets get mismatched. Nothing wrong with that, as long as all the components are quality. The regulators can be rebuilt, good ones are worth it. Torches also can be rebuilt. Hose and torch tips are consumables, but each can last a while with good care. Be certain the hose is never under something being cut or welded. Coil up the hose after use, so it doesnt get wrecked on the floor. Get in the habit of always shutting off your tanks when you are done. If you are storing the setup outside, rig a cover to protect the regulaters from rain, and the hose from the sun. Like Jimmy said, back the regulator t-screws out when not in use. You should feel when they stop pressing on the rubber diaphram inside the regulator.

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A few more safety tips often overlooked.

Never use an acetylene tank that is not standing upright. The tank contains acetone with acetylene dissolved in it.

Do not exceed acetylene usage in excess of 1/7 of the cylinder contents per hour. Acetylene moves out of the acetone solution at a certain rate. To exceed the 1/7th rule may cause acetone to come out of the cylinder causing a very explosive situation. Each size cylinder contains a fixed amount of gas when full. You can use only 1/7th of that per hour. Know what that is in cubic feet and know what the tip you are using consumes.

Always open the oxygen cylinder (and all high pressure cylinders) all the way. The valve stem has two seats on it. One seals the cylinder when closed and the other seals the valve stem when open. Very high pressure in an O2 cylinder and if you don’t open the valve all the way, the gas will leak out the top.

And NEVER put anything containing a petroleum product where it can come in contact with high pressure oxygen. Do not use oil anywhere on an A/O rig or BOOM.

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STEVE'S welding here, another good safety thing to do for O/A is leak test all connections with soap and water & leak test you're hose in a bucket of clean water
I do this at least 2 times a year or more reason why ? HOT Metal is allways near hose's
unless you have room for a cutting table I don't :<( I have a steel drum under welding table I use I also soap test any new tank I hook up I have found bad leaking valves offen ! that wont seal & are leaking my money out - I mark them & take them back, I am not sure they get fixed though I think they just put back in stock for the next guy :<( tank supplier here has a BAD REP ! - but its deal with them or 2 Hr drive east

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One thing not mentioned here. Have your tanks checked for date. If out of date you will need a hydro test.
I have a small torch with hoses like that. There are adapters to convert the ends to std size. (have them on my jewelers tanks. YES get the flashbacks and leak check(spray cleaner works great) Now if it's a micro or mini torch
Ya can cut 1/4 in or heat with it. How tall or what size tank. I have both mid size and jewelers tanks. Jewelers will heat for a while but cutting is quick.
Ken.

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One thing not mentioned here. Have your tanks checked for date. If out of date you will need a hydro test.
I have a small torch with hoses like that. There are adapters to convert the ends to std size. (have them on my jewelers tanks. YES get the flashbacks and leak check(spray cleaner works great) Now if it's a micro or mini torch
Ya can cut 1/4 in or heat with it. How tall or what size tank. I have both mid size and jewelers tanks. Jewelers will heat for a while but cutting is quick.
Ken.


Hi Ken,

No date to be found on either tank. The O2 tank is about 50" high and the Acetylene tank is about 32". The O2 has about 400 psi in it and the Acetylene has about 30 psi. I'm going to take the gauges and hose and torch to my local supply place and see what they say. I'll definitely get the flashback arrestors.

Roger
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Two further suggestions;When you go to the supply house have them show you(and give you printed instructions) on how to do a "leak down test".This should be done every time you charge those hoses with pressure and should become second nature to you.It basically checks that your complete system will hold pressure and has no leaks.
The second suggestion,buy a short section(6-8 feet)of lighter hose and a pair of couplers for the hoses.Most damage to your hoses take place within the first couple of feet.If things start leaking there you can just pull the short section out and connect to the main hose and keep on working till you can get a new "whip" section again.The lighter hoses are more flexible too so they`re easier to deal with in close quarters and that`s usually where the stuff get cut or bent sharply and cracked.
Most pro welders will loop either a hose or a cable around their arm and then over their shoulder as they work.That way things don`t get kinked or catch on things and the torch becomes an extension of your arm.Makes it much easier to get a nice bead or straight cut.

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OK - advice heeded. Went to my local welding supply place and the regulators check out fine. Bought new hose with (B to A) adapters for the torch, which also checks out fine. Also bought the flashback arresters. Should be good to go. The store owner is looking for a welding head that will fit the torch (all I have is a cutting head). I'll leak test everything as I connect it. Now I'm looking for a welding class nearby.

Thank you all, Roger

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  • 2 weeks later...

I agree that the best thing to do is take the entire set to your local welding supply and have them check it out. But since it's a great thing to know what you're looking for, here it is;

1) I would have to say first and foremost, BE SURE TO ONLY USE AN ACETYLENE TIP WITH ACETYLENE GAS!!! Using a propane/natural gas tip with acetylene gas will cause the tip to explode. Reason being is acetylene burns at a higher velocity and having a propane tip will cause it to burn-back.
2) Before attaching the regulators, be sure to quickly crack the valve to blow out any debris that could be inside the valve. This will save your regulators which aren't cheap.
3) NEVER USE OIL ON THE REGULATORS!! Using oil (fuel), introducing it into a high oxygen environment (air), and the friction from the speed that oxygen blows out of the valve (ignition point) could cause the regulator/valve area to explode and could; burn you, shrapnel, seriously injure you, kill you, or turn the bottle into a rocket.
4) Be sure hose connections aren't damaged, hose isn't cracked or split or cut, and attach to regulators/torch.
5) Check to make sure the valves on the torch are closed and are able to open freely with nothing inside. Check the tip for being in good shape.
6) Check all connections so they are good and tight, exception being if the tip has a rubber O-ring gasket on it and/or if the torch is a 2-piece torch set with an O-ring gasket on it, they only need to be hand tightened. Maybe a SLIGHT snug-up with a wrech.
7) Stand away from the regulators as you slowly crack them open letting the full pressure "equalize" then open the oxygen valve fully (it has a 2-seat O-ring which seats closed and seats open so you don't waste gas) and only open the acetylene vavle 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 turns (just in case anything happens, the acetylene tank can be easily turned off if possible).
8) Set the acetylene regulator to 5-7 PSI (NEVER MORE THAN 15 PSI) and set the oxygen regulator to anywhere from 15 PSI to 60 PSI. The PSI value of the oxygen is determined by 2 things, the tip size/type and the thickness of the material being cut (you can find charts that explain the correlation).
9) Crack the acetylene valve on the torch body and light with your striker. Keep adding acetylene until the black soot goes away then add oxygen until the acetylene feather goes away.
10) Double check the flame by pressing the oxygen cutting lever to check for the acetylene feather. You're now ready to cut.

Hold the tip of the inner blue flames between 1/8 to 3/8 inches away from work piece and start practicing!!


Have fun,
-Hillbilly

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