MetalMuncher Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Greetings! I have been having pondering the idea of making a tire hammer. Seems relatively straight forward, cheap-ish to build and looks sufficiently harmless so my girl wont complain I just need to confirm a few technicalities and was wondering if you guys could give me some advice. The cheapest and most readily available motor for me would be an ordinary bench grinder. I was thinking about 1 or 1 1/2 HP one (2,500 rpm give or take). The question in my mind is whether a grinder can handle the torque when contacting the tire. Would the grinder even be capable of moving the tire, or just stop all together? Secondly, concerning the spring connecting the upper linkage arms, could I use a motorcycle shock? And finally, bolts. What kind of bolt does one use for the moving bits? This hammer will consist primarily of scrap. I would be using leaf springs (forged or cut to shape, length and thickness) for the linkage arms just to save on money. As funny as it sounds, even being in Brazil, iron still costs an arm or a leg Any advice would be great guys Cheers, Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Probably 1500 or 3000 rpm. Should work fine, a horsepower is a horsepower. Motorcycle spring yes, shock absorber no. Springs store energy, shocks absorb energy. Any bolts will be fine. Get to it and be sure to post pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Michael, I use a 1/2hp electric motor on my tire hammer. It works just fine. As a matter of fact, I had a 1hp motor on it and it seemed to do more rocking and vibrating than with the 1/2hp. I fine tuned it with lead counter weight on the back side of the tire rim. Good luck. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Thanks for your help guys! Nice to have some good ol' straight forward answers Grant, I meant motorcycle spring. I thought shock was the word hehehe. Good to know a horse power is a horse power, I thought that simple bench grinders were of an inferior quality or something. George, thanks for pointing out the rocking bit. I was even going to buy a 2 Hp grinder! I think I will be purchasing a 1hp grinder...I figure I could always ajust the size of the contact wheel and hone in on what works. Am I right? P.S- About the bolts, would a regular nut and bolt do the job? In my mind it would come loose with all the vibrations. Thanks for the help! Cheers Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Thanks for your help guys! Nice to have some good ol' straight forward answers Grant, I meant motorcycle spring. I thought shock was the word hehehe. Good to know a horse power is a horse power, I thought that simple bench grinders were of an inferior quality or something. George, thanks for pointing out the rocking bit. I was even going to buy a 2 Hp grinder! I think I will be purchasing a 1hp grinder...I figure I could always ajust the size of the contact wheel and hone in on what works. Am I right? P.S- About the bolts, would a regular nut and bolt do the job? In my mind it would come loose with all the vibrations. When I built my power hammer I used the highest grade bolts I could find, grade 8. I prevented the bolts from loosening using all the various methods I know, depending on the circumstances. On some, I used lockwashers. On some, nylon insert locknuts. On some, thread deforming locknuts. On some, I double nutted, being sure to counter-rotate the nuts against each other. On some, I deformed the outer interface between nut and bolt with a center punch. On some, I welded the nut to the baseplate. So far, none have failed. Six years of part time use. Thanks for the help! Cheers Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Hey Michael, I used grade 8 bolts with Nylon insert on the lock nut. So far it's taking the beating and the vibration. Yeah, you could adjust the size of the drive roller or even the size of the tire. I used a doughnut spare tire on mine. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. Don't forget to take and post pix.:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Thanks again dudes! arftist and George, I think the configuration that will best suit my needs is the double nut. It makes sense and should hold fast. I will be sure to counter-rotate them Thanks for the note on the roller and tire. Im not even sure about their dimentions yet, so I can make ajustments as I go. Pictures might only come with time, but I will be sure to shoot plenty! They will, hopefully, prove useful to others. Great! Thanks for all of your help! Cheers Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Hey yes be sure to post pictures. Figure out all the hard parts and write and take lots of pictures of them...that way when I get around to mine it will be smooth sailing! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Hahahaha! Half the fun is trying to figure out to make the bloody thing. But I will indeed take pictures with the goal to help others Ummmm, I think I had an idea...err...brain fart. Have a look at this pic: This is my idea for my anvil. I have seen people weld huge billet looking chunks of metal together and all sorts, but that is just not an option for me. So this is what I came up with. The 10kg hammer head would simply slide into the pipe and only a small portion of it would be sticking out. I will fit snugly in the pipe. Any thoughts? I think the concrete would provide sufficient mass to make it effective. Any thoughts? Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 I think the concrete will crush to powder and the insert will sink. Better to use something more substantial for your anvil. My 2 Cents worth. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 You are right George, but the joy of it is that you can simply pull the hammer head out and slap some more concrete in there. You can compact stuff only so much. It has nowhere to go because the base will be a solid 1/4 inch steel plate. Sand is another option, but I think I might have to keep adding until it gets really solid. Any thoughts? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 A lot more to it than just weight. Take that slug of steel out and set it in the dirt and pound on it, then put it on your anvil and pound on it. Just like your hammer, the anvil needs to be elastic (yes, steel is elastic). Try forging with a 5# rawhide hammer. Even with 5# it won't work. Yep, way more to it than just weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 your scheme with concrete will not please you. You need solid steel anvil at the minimum of 5 times the weight of your hammer head. More anvil weight like 10 times is better but must be resilient steel to be effective. Picture the anvil as hitting back from the bottom as you hammer down from the top. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 That's not going to work worth spit. You need the elastic rebound from a depth of steel, concrete is strong in compression because it has no rebound. You'd be farther ahead finding a boulder than trying to back a 10 lb hammer head with concrete. Keep looking for something with some depth of steel like a train axle or similar. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 I did warn y'all it was a brain fart! Hmmmmm, junkyard here I come! Thanks for all the help guys. I figured it needed to be a good solid hunk of metal. I guess I just have to look harder I will let you know how it goes! Thanks again for all the help! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTB Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I recently completed a tire hammer using Clay Spencers plans. It took me about 2 months to find an anvil for a reasonable price and it took me almost that long to find the tire and wheel that was spec'd. Rollers from old carpet mills, well drilling equipment, scrap yards are all good possibilities. Keep looking, there is a pc out there somewhere with your name on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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