KTB

I PM'd you contact info for parts.

I found my Lincoln 180 on Craigslist brand new in the box for 1/2 off retail.

I would concur with divermike

I am going to be part of a dome build Sky. Hence the flattened conduit.

I appreciate the suggestions guys. I am going to try Johns first. I can't see using the vise or a hammer. If I can't get the power hammer under control perhaps a cheap HF arbor press would work.

I have a couple hundred pcs of 3/4 inch EMT conduit and I need to flatten them for an 1 1/2 inches on each end. I have a tire hammer but with little practice at this point getting one hit is still difficult. I also need the flattened ends in line with one another. I have flat dies and suppose I could fashion some sort of back stop but I am still not sure how I can align the flattened ends. Any suggestions guys ?

Thanks for the suggestions Phil.

I have a small 2 burner gas forge connected to 2 bbq size propane tanks piggy backed together to prevent freeze up.. Just recently it seems one tank or another won't pass propane until I fiddle with the on off valve for 10 or 15 minutes, cracking it open slowly while the forge seems to run ( somewhat ) off the other tank. Do new tanks have some sort of safety valve in them limiting the about of pressure released or something? It seems once I get both flowing everything is fine.

I faced the same decision just over a year ago. I ended up building a tire hammer and I am very pleased with it. However, it did require almost 2 months of spare time to gather and assemble the components. A LG would be nice, but I also like knowing I can rebuild or repair any component on my hammer. If time is a primary consideration, buy what is affordable and available.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. Just looking to develop my skills.

Thanks Pete

Somewhere I had seen a tutorial or perhaps just a series of photos of someone forging a snake from a horse hoof rasp. This particular method did not indicate rolling the rasp and I am confused as to how one could draw out the rasp without destroying the teeth on the rasp that end up as scales. I picked up several rasps and would like to attempt this project. Any help guys ? Thanks in advance, Keith

Blade Show 2011 this weekend at the Cobb Galleria. This is the largest event of it's kind. Be there or be square.

100 lb P W Good to Fair Conditon Purchased in 2008 260.00

The mixture of materials really sets off each detail. I like it, a lot.

Nice job indeed.

I have not used a rusty style but have observed one in operation. They are certainly easier to build and therein is the beauty. They do run a bit slower but I am not sure I would be too concerned about that. If anything I have found my tire hammer has the capability to run much faster than I can use it. And yes, I do have enough bushings for the arms. Whatever way you choose to go we are behind you.

I like my 100 P W but would like to have a larger one. Should you decide to pass on this one I would appreciate the contact info so I can check it out. I believe that 3.00 a lb is to high. 2.00 a lb is not unrealitic but if I were negotiating I would start at 1.25 to 1.50 - K - in Canton GA

In my humble opinion while the rusty hammer is nice, it isn't quite the hammer the tire hammer is. I know the whole concept is to build a hammer on a tight budget or is was when I built mine. I took advantage of an option I had in having John Wayne Taylor in Alabama ( a close associate of Clay Spencer ) build my upper and lower arms because he has the jigs that make everything align perfectly. Just an option I thought I would throw out there. Everything else is pretty much straight forward. Follow the plans carefully and you should do fine. I'm not covered up in smarts but my hammer came out sweeeeet. Besides, you have plenty of help on this forum if you need it. PS / I ended up with extra bronze bushings for the arms because I purchased them and then John Wayne had them already installed. I would be glad to send them to you at no charge if you can use them although I will add the stipulation that you post pictures of your hammer when completed. - K -

Good point Artist, but the prices seem to have shot out of sight recently. Guess it goes right along with everything else in todays ecomomy.

Unfortunately it would seem that an anvil now days is pretty much worth whatever someone is willing to pay. Ebay anvils are typically going for $3.00 to $3.50 a lb or better and that seems to be trickling down to the used local markets. I can't be sure but I would wager that collectors with deep pockets are responsible at least in part for the rapidly rising prices. Kinda sucks for us that actually use an anvil.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the suggestions. I know you can sometimes get them to drop the extra concret they may have on board, it's just not practical for me to be available. And I have a friend with a mixer but I am at his mercy as to when he may or may not be able to bring it by. I am going to look in to the U-Cart thing. I have work accounts with three differnt rental yards.

Thanks guys. I tried 2 different calculators and came up with from 7 bags to 32 bags and didn't feel either was accurate.

I am ready to pour an isolated slab for my tire hammer. The hole is 32 inches X 32 inches X 24 inches deep. I am currently attempting to locate a reliable calculator so I can figure the number of 80 lb bags of mix required. I would love to have it delivered but I think it is only around half a yard of concrete and around here they have a 3 yard minimum.

Does anyone have a reliable calculator ? I am attempting to figure the number of 80 lb bags of sackrete to fill a 32 inch X 32 inch X 24 inch deep hole.