ianinsa Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Hi Dave, Nice looking work so far. A common trend for blacksmiths today is to "scrounge" and to "junkyard mine" it is a usefull skill to acuire early on! If you are near industrial areas consider asking at pipe fitters, fire sprinkler installers and large plumbers for "less than prime" fittings and pieces of pipe, they often have virtually new stuff that they have taken out or was incorectly installed in their "could be usefull" pile that they will often let go for a song if asked good luck ! Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramsberg Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Hey Dave, Your through bolts should work OK. Especially if they are near the corners of the bottom of the firepot. My firepots always seemed to get hottest near the center of the vertical(ish) firepot walls. The bottom and vertical corners of the firepot seemed to stay much cooler. How are you going to support the clinker breaker? Are you planning on having holes in the side of the ash dump pipe and small rod extension on each end of the clinker breaker to support it? A lot of people seem to favor triangularly shaped clinker breakers. I have always wondered how one bent up out of sheet metal would hold up. One could cut out some sheet metal in a triangular shape to make the ends of it with say 3/8" or 1/2" holes in each end cap, so that a round control rod could pass through the clinker breaker. If you had two ears coming off of one side of the clinker breaker that stradled one of the holes and had small holes drilled in them(prefably before they were welded on) say 1/8" dia. Then a 1/8" hole in the control rod, one could use a 1/8" pin to connect the movement of the control rod with the clinker breaker. Then all you would have to do to remove the clinker breaker would be to remove the pin, hold on to the clinker breaker with one hand or tongs pull out the control rod and they would be seperated. This is of course assuming that they didn't rust together or burn apart. The incoming air does a great deal to keep the clinker breaker cool, I have made a grate from nothing more then 1/4" round stock and never had it burn up. If you have some sheet metal laying around you can also make the ash dump from that, just form it into a rectangular or square shape, any shape that you want. Lots of options out there! Caleb Ramsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Just use 1/4-20 nuts and bolts on a flange with the clinker breaker sandwiched between the tue and the pot. 4-6 bolts and nuts should do it. Yes bolt head will burn off eventually, but probably not before you have other things to repair. You can step up to 3/8 or 1/2 inch if it makes you feel better. The hardest part is welding up a mating flange. Oh wait! You already demonstrated skills welding the firepot! You will likely need to grind any weld bead off the mating surfaces, so plan your welds accordingly. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Dave, I just built a stand alone coal forge with a side draft style hood. A few suggestions, double up the edges of the plate (table) opening for the firepot. This will prevent any heat distortion. Also with a 36 vs 48 inch table length consider raising the outdide rail edge where you intend to pile the coal. The draft opening takes up space on the table and forces you to one end, 3 feet quickly becomes 2 feet or less, think 4 feet for best results. This will keep the coal on the table as opposed to its falling off. We tend to pile it up and as you shovel under the pile it winds up on the deck. As to the tool racks, you dont need that many in the immediate area where you are working. Accomodate the requisite fire tools and a few task specific tongs. The remainder you can store anywhere in the shop. Too much clutter does not work to your advantage. You want a clear shot at the forge from as many angles as possible, having tooling in the way will on make life diffciult. Important, build in some sort of support for long pieces of stock. Inter fitting tubing or pipe works well as does the swing up versions with a single leg support. Anything to free up your hands and or floor space around the forge. Stock racks work best if they are on both sides. The less dancing about you have to do the better. Photos attached for your review. The job looks great and the design is sound. i'm sure you will be pleased when you lite off the first fire. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 I may try to do a triangular clinker breaker frin 1/4x1 inch flat bar based off of Mr. Caleb's idea! I think the pin would burn up though unless it could be kept bellow the level of the bottom of the firepot. It could be if you put it through the angled sides of the triangle. (One flat side up forming a flat firepot bottom and the two angled sides below that.) That 1/4x1 wouldn't burn up anytime soon. I may try that! I was planning on just butting some 1/2 inch round rod into the clinker breaker for the handle. The only way to remove the breaker would be to take the tue off. However, I'm going to try to do a triangular one with a solid piece of round running through it and a pin attachment. More on that tomorrow maybe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Dave, I just built a stand alone coal forge with a side draft style hood. A few suggestions, double up the edges of the plate (table) opening for the firepot. This will prevent any heat distortion. Also with a 36 vs 48 inch table length consider raising the outdide rail edge where you intend to pile the coal. The draft opening takes up space on the table and forces you to one end, 3 feet quickly becomes 2 feet or less, think 4 feet for best results. This will keep the coal on the table as opposed to its falling off. We tend to pile it up and as you shovel under the pile it winds up on the deck. As to the tool racks, you dont need that many in the immediate area where you are working. Accomodate the requisite fire tools and a few task specific tongs. The remainder you can store anywhere in the shop. Too much clutter does not work to your advantage. You want a clear shot at the forge from as many angles as possible, having tooling in the way will on make life diffciult. Important, build in some sort of support for long pieces of stock. Inter fitting tubing or pipe works well as does the swing up versions with a single leg support. Anything to free up your hands and or floor space around the forge. Stock racks work best if they are on both sides. The less dancing about you have to do the better. Photos attached for your review. The job looks great and the design is sound. i'm sure you will be pleased when you lite off the first fire. Peter Nice forge! Many of your ideas have already been incorporated into my forge. There is going to be a small tool rack on the outside edge of the forge away from where I work for, as you said, fire tools and work specific tongs. I was planning on a slide out rack and indeed I already have materials for that. The stationary tubing to hold the slide out rack was going to be the support right around the firepot. However, after looking at the material you used for your slide out rack, I think mine may not be stout enough. I'll get stock measurements tomorrow on the size of tubing I bought and see what everyone thinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 There is my attempt at a triangular clinker breaker. It is 3/4x3/16 flat bar. The corners were welded up and then ground down. This is what it will look like when I put it in. I can't fit a 1/2 inch rod in the middle so I am using 3/8 inch round. I don't think I can drill for a pin so I will probably just weld the 3/8" rod to the breaker. I may try to drill, but I don't think it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Dave: Reward yourself and go buy a basic tap and die set. You can live with just a 1/4-20 tap or other convenient size, but a decent basic set is less than $50. Drill and tap the "cold" side and use a bolt as a set screw. Yes, through the point of the triangle if you can, more to thread into. File a flat in the rod to land on. Looks good. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramsberg Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Hey Dave, I just love it when a plan comes together! If you end up having to weld it then a small tack on the edge of a flat to the round stock can be done when it is inside the forge and easily ground off with the ash pipe still attached to remove the clinker breaker. I would like to second what Phil said, a tap and die set is very usefull, if a new one is out of reach then check out some flea markets and garage sales they sometimes have an old set or two there. Buy enough of them and you end up with a "complete" set of taps and dies. Those taps can be used for a lot of stuff not just threading holes but picking your teeth or yanking out that odd nose or ear hair. . . Caleb Ramsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 I used a small tap as a center punch for quite some time. Never as a toothpick. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 LOL you guys are crazy! I may have to look into getting a set then. I know it would be awfully handy as this isn't the first time I've said...."hey, you know what I need...!" I'm going to need one for the tire hammer if I ever get around to that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Fiery; you have a lot of skill and that looks like a great forge. I will continue to follow your progress. Thanks I am learning a lot. Really beautiful welding. Rick a.k. 3lbhammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Well, I need to up construction speed as I have a fire place mantel that I have to build brackets for. The forge needs to be up and running this week! Lord willing we will head to the steel yard and get the last couple parts, then hit the welding shop and get some stuff broke off. I hope by tomorrow afternoon to have the forge in place with the 14" tube going out the wall. I am getting a price on some 12 inch rigid duct work for my flue pipe. I think it will actually be cheaper than fabricating one and will be much much easier. Pictures and updates tomorrow if all goes well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 I finally got to get some more parts and so started back up yesterday! The forge is getting painted now. Last night I welded the Hofi hood and painted it along with cutting a flange piece for the wall. Enough talk now photos! Framing the outer wall for the forge hood and window! The ash dump with air pipe hole cut.....I'm sure glad you can't see that hole! LOL The air pipe! The fire pot with ears welded on to bolt the ash dump to. That way my bolts don't burn up....EVER! The whole assembly! Just need the ash gate now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Start the ash dump. The ash dump in place. The weight is 1x2 inch tubing full of sand. It works very well and holds the gate tightly closed! The extension steel rack under the forge. These pipes make it adjustable up and down a little bit. The ears on the side are for keeping stock from sliding off. Small slide in tool rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 (sniff, sniff) I smell smoke!!! About ready Dave!! Looking real good. You'll have that fired up in no time, now. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 The wall flange for the Hofi hood Under construction! That was a lot of welding! 4 foot beeds on the top! The door! How tight does that door need to shut? The window, flange, and hood in place! Now don't that look good! LOL Now I had to make a leg to support the hood. I used 3 inch tubing with a bracket to keep the hood centered. Then I cemented the pole in the ground! This is the bracket that cradles the hood. The flash on our camera quit working so I'm sorry for the bad quality! I've got the flue pipe ordered. It is supposed to be here tomorrow! I a waiting to cut the hole in the hood (you may have been wondering) until I get the piping! I ran a test on the air flow into the firepot from my blower. It works like a "champion." LOL Of course that may be because it is a "champion." I'm painting the forge now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramsberg Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Hey Dave, Looking really good man! You will be back at the anvil with hot metal in no time at all! Caleb Ramsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 I welded a bracket to support the piping last night! Also cut the hole for the flue pipe, in the Hofi hood. It is sized just about right....just a bit more grinding! Really could have used a Plasma on that! (Now taking Plasma cutter donations! LOL) I also got the piping yesterday! $60.00 for 15 feet of the heaviest 12 inch stuff I could buy! Not too bad! If I had fabbed up my own pipe I was looking at something like $80.00 plus the work! YAY! I've got to go to a client's (i like that word LOL) place today to see about a fireplace mantle bracket system! However, I hope to have everything up and running by this evening so I may even have test fire pictures! ........hope it all works right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Well I'm impressed at your progress. Nice looking setup that you are getting there. Wish you all the best and multiple clients Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Well gentlemen; It has been almost five years since I bought my first anvil, had a coal forge built, bought a Champion 40 blower, and started hitting hot metal. I must confess that when I started in a small brick fireplace with a claw hammer, rebar, and rocks, that I never thought I'd progress to using a 280 pound anvil, with my first completely homemade forge, and a hood designed by a master smith in Israel. It has been a long and sometimes testing road, but today it has all payed off. I hope that these five years are the beginning of many, many more! I'm glad that you guys on IFI have been a part of my learning experience and I want to say thank you to all of you for your brilliant ideas and help! Pictures of the rest of the forge build and the first fire! The piping! The pipe installed! This is a bracket I made from some scrap angle iron. Now the forge pictures! Once again I am going red for shop color! I don't have everything set up and organized and cleaned up yet. Still have two 2'x8' steel tables to make and a special tool rack for all my hand held tools. I don't like the positioning of the blower but it will have to do until we can get a pad poured! For those of you who have hard times hooking blowers to forges, these rubber boots and dryer duct work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Just before the first fire! Will it draw????? Yes it will! Getting hotter! Doing absolutely nothing but having fun! It looks good from the inside and the outside! And I just liked the way this one looked! The hood draws well and I am pleased. The forge seems to perform well and gets quite hot without much effort expended in blowing. (Hopefully even less effort if I can get an electric blower.lol) There was a little smoke get away to begin with but after the hood warmed it sucked nearly all the smoke out. When I get the pad poured I will be able to slide the forge a little closer to the hood. I'm about 2 inches too far away from the hood due to some miscalculation somewhere. I may even try to slide the hood in a bit until I get the pad poured. I don't think that will affect anything. A lot more work to do before everything is finished, but today for the first time, I forged in my own indoor shop. It feels good and I thank the Lord for his blessings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 It all looks great. Nice neat setup. You should be really pleased with the work you have done. I do want you to be VERY careful about the bales of hay they are WAY to close to the fire just one rock in your coal that pops and blows out and you could lose it all. Please take some measures to prevent a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian.pierson Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Dave, Only from reading and not experience but I think you want to decrease the size of the opening to pull the smoke better. It looks like it draws well but your comments says it doesn't draw completely. Take a look at this page on anvilfire. http://anvilfire.com/21centbs/planfile/ Looks great though and you should be proud of it. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramsberg Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Hey Dave, The future, as it always has, belongs to the makers of things. Welcome to the future! Caleb Ramsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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