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I Forge Iron

My First Leaf


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Well I started to get into something a bit more artistic. Leaves may be old hat for many of you but this is my first attempt at a leaf with a vine stem. I started with a 1/2" round bar, squared it, tapered it to a point, used another 1/2" bar as an improvised fuller to make the bottom of the leaf. After I had the basic form I flattened the leaf, then using my cross peen, spread it out. Then I had to work on creating the stem which I did using the horn and radius edge of my anvil as a fuller, then flattening the fuller raised areas and squaring it off and finally rounding the stem. Then I used a hot cut hardy to separate the leaf, heated yellow and over three successive heats I used my machinist vise (dont have a post vise) to make the ring and then wrap the stem, I tried to do some veining but I just don't have the right tools I think because it didn't take well. Id like to be able to do raised veins in the back but I would have no idea how.

So what do you think?

post-14357-015865800 1286600146_thumb.jp

post-14357-045650000 1286600154_thumb.jp

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Looking good, next you can try to draw out your stem some more to give it a more tapered look. If you use a set hammer you can get a raised rib effect down the center, and a straight or curved chisel is good for veining.


Thanks. What is a set hammer? Do you have a link to one for sale so I can see what you mean?
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I tried to copy an image but i am not computer literate enough to figure out how to put it on here.......just google "set hammer". Basically it is a struck tool(you set it on your work and hit it with your smithing hammer) and is a basic smithing tool. I see them for sale on Ebay regularly, or you could modify one of those cheap Chinese squareheaded stonecarving hammers.

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http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/machinery/Shop-Practice-V2/images/Set-Hammer.png&imgrefurl=http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/machinery/Shop-Practice-V2/Forge-Shop-Common-Tools.html&usg=__iQsU08vwMTMUNtFixLJvkMu3j9c=&h=200&w=205&sz=2&hl=en&start=0&zoom=0&tbnid=LcSRrq9tDygdLM:&tbnh=102&tbnw=105&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dset%2Bhammer%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26rlz%3D1I7GGLL_en%26biw%3D1579%26bih%3D611%26tbs%3Disch:10%2C195&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=629&vpy=277&dur=10034&hovh=102&hovw=105&tx=73&ty=127&ei=33-wTJ2uOJCisQObzvj8Cw&oei=33-wTJ2uOJCisQObzvj8Cw&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=29&ved=1t:429,r:22,s:0&biw=1579&bih=611
try that
yeah it works huh guess I am literate (barely :))

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Looking good Robert, at least as good as my first leaf. Somewhere around 10-50 copies and they'll be terrific. You have the general idea down, a little refinement and you won't have to wait for spring for shade.

Check some of Brian Brazeal's posts about isolating material, I think he posted about leaves but I'm not sure. Isolating the material lets you separate different sections for work without effecting the bordering areas. For instance forging down a nice thin stem without damaging the leaf's proximal end. You might search the site for "half face blows" too.

Frosty the Lucky.

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Making a raised vein; here follows one method. When you have the leaf shaped and flattened as you like, fold it in half lengthwise, from tip to stem. This is easily acomplished using the anvil step. Get the fold started by holding the leaf diagonaly over the step with one side on the plate and the other side on the cutting table. Strike the leaf to start the fold. Finnish the fold on the plate by hammering it closed. Using a sharp cold chisel, open up the fold, return to plate and lightly flatten. Leave some curve in the two halves if you like, for effect. With practice, this can be done in one heat. You will have created a pronounced rib on the back of the leaf.

I wrote of a veining tool I made, and one gentleman was nice enough to sketch what I descibed. It worked very well. I cannot find the thread. If I feel better later I will describe it again.

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