Starter Hammer's

[dagr8tim]

This weekend I want to try a prototype forge and maybe bang on some metal. Currently my hammer collection is a 3 pound mini sledge, a 1 pound plastic dead blow hammer, a rubber mallet, and a variety of claw hammers.

Just to start out I'm considering snagging a Ball Pein hammer. The question is 16oz or 32oz? I know the short answer is both, but I'm not looking to invest to much in tools until I see if this gets off the ground. And with having a 3 pound mini sledge, I wonder if I could get by with just a 16 oz hammer?

Once I start to get the feel for it, I plan to buy more tools. I just don't want to buy a ton of stuff for a hobby I may not get fully invested in.

[edge9001]

like you said short answer is yes get both. in my opinion the more variety you have the better, but hammer control is more important than how many hammers you have

I have a 3# cross peen hammer, and both large and small ballpeen hammer. as well as a 32oz machinist hammer.

[ThomasPowers]

As I have picked up a number of both sizes for US$1 a piece at fleamarkets I don't see why you wouldn't just get both.

Surely you were not planning to overpay and buy them *new*!

Not knowing your arm I would say the 3# would be too heavy and likely to damage you of used too much too early. OTOH the 1# is awfully light---but we don't know what you plan to be making.

If I was to have only the 1 hammer I would probably go with the 2#.

[MattBower]

I agree. Start with the two pound ball pein. But yeah, you should be able to find them used at flea markets, yard sales, etc., for dirt cheap. (Update your profile to tell us roughly where you are, and perhaps someone can give you more specific help.)

[Dodge]

I agree with Thomas. You can move a lot of steel with a 2#er. I bought a cheap double faced 2#er at Harbor Freight for $5(?) and ground one face into a rounder, and then, re-handled. For less than $10, it's one of my most used hammers.

[dagr8tim]

As I have picked up a number of both sizes for US$1 a piece at fleamarkets I don't see why you wouldn't just get both.

Surely you were not planning to overpay and buy them *new*!

Not knowing your arm I would say the 3# would be too heavy and likely to damage you of used too much too early. OTOH the 1# is awfully light---but we don't know what you plan to be making.

If I was to have only the 1 hammer I would probably go with the 2#.

I was thinking of running by HF this afternoon (I've got some 20% off coupons). The 16 oz is $3.99 and the 32 oz is $5.99. I figure for $8, it's a small price to pay.

[Tim McCoy]

I agree with the others about a lighter hammer to start with. I have a 2# double faced pein hammer that gets used most ... found it at a yard sale for about $2 ... many of the older blacksmith books will have ball pein hammers in their illustrations. Practice hitting a lot to get the muscle memory you need for your blows to be second nature. Go slow first to get control and once you do your skill/speed will increase. Buy cheap, scrounge always and have fun!

[ThomasPowers]

I bought a lot of smithing stuff at the South High Fleamarket in Columbus OH, Wed, Sat, Sun. when I lived in Columbus including probably 50 hammers, several post vises and even an anvil or two. Of course there is no guessing what will be there on a particular date but I would visit it 2-3 times a week for the 15 years I lived in Columbus.

Picked up some old cold chisels to use as high C stock last Wednesday just before Quad-State when I was in town visiting from New Mexico.

It's at the drive in movie place between 104 and 270 on south High St.

Fellow was there with a really good collection of un-used files too!

[dagr8tim]

I bought a lot of smithing stuff at the South High Fleamarket in Columbus OH, Wed, Sat, Sun. when I lived in Columbus including probably 50 hammers, several post vises and even an anvil or two. Of course there is no guessing what will be there on a particular date but I would visit it 2-3 times a week for the 15 years I lived in Columbus.

Picked up some old cold chisels to use as high C stock last Wednesday just before Quad-State when I was in town visiting from New Mexico.

It's at the drive in movie place between 104 and 270 on south High St.

Fellow was there with a really good collection of un-used files too!

I know the place you're talking about. I'll have to go check it out.

[ThomasPowers]

And folks *THAT* is why we always suggest people put their general location in their profile!

[arftist]

And folks *THAT* is why we always suggest people put their general location in their profile!

Good work Thomas, as usual.

[infinityblacksmithing]

A couple thoughts I had reading this.
I personally wouldn't use a plastic or rubber mallet, not really a fan of burning plastic or rubber. I prefer wooden mallets.
Also, I would not advise using claw hammers especially as a beginner. Depending on the rebound of your anvil, and your stance and how you swing there is a chance of getting the claw in your face. Just something to think of.
Good hunting at the market.

[son_of_bluegrass]

For a beginner hammer, a lot depends on it you are used to swinging a hammer or not. If you sit in a cube all day and have for years the 1 lb. hammer may be just right to start. If you swing a hammer for a living already, a 3 lb. hammer may work. I do most of my work with something in the 1.5 to 2 lb. hammer.
I started with a claw hammer as it was available. Today I have enough hammers I don't need to use a claw hammer. But it will work.
You may eventually want a mallet for non-marring. Go with wood or leather.

ron

[ThomasPowers]

I have a rawhide hammer know to my students as "the stinky hammer" very useful to true up light work against a stump where I don't want to mar ornamental twisting or chiseling on it.

[pkrankow]

Rawhide is easy to make into a hammer, get a large dog chew toy soak overnight, unwrap, and start re-wrapping. Takes several days to dry though. Having a wood dowel (or something to act as a support frame for the wet rawhide) on the end of a hammer handle to wrap around may make it easier.

You can also roll a cylinder and drill it to take a handle after it dries.

I made one for a friend who carves wood, but have not made one for myself.

Phil

[Caius]

when i started, all i had was a pair of 1 lb ball peen hammers, now i have a 4 lb sledge, and a 2 lb b.p, but no handle on it. all i neeed now is a power hammer...

[maddog]

Not knowing your arm I would say the 3# would be too heavy and likely to damage you of used too much too early. OTOH the 1# is awfully light---but we don't know what you plan to be making.

If I was to have only the 1 hammer I would probably go with the 2#.

IMO the hammer is responsible for more serious injuries than any other tool in the smith's shop. Cuts, burns and bruises will all heal and go away. The hammer can damage your arm a little bit at a time and by the time the symptoms show as tendinitis, joint damage or nerve damage it's very hard to undo. There are too many smiths who can no longer use a hand hammer and many more who have to wear some kind of brace.

The two main mistakes are: too big too soon (it's a guy thing); not making the effort to learn a good technique.