tool preservation

[brian.pierson]

All,

I am going through a bucket of misc hammers and top tools heads that I collected over the years. I am going to clean them up and handle the. I already have a box of handle seconds from a local flea market. Once I get all the rust off the heads, I was wondering what would be the best way to keep the rust off? I could see paint, wax, or just oiling them up. I only have outdoor space so the forge work is slowing down until the spring. So i want to take care of these until I can get back to them.

Hope this makes sense.

Brian

[arftist]

A light coating of rust prevents my tools from rusting. Oil the rusty steel.

[wapiti_forge]

You could use plumb brown gun finish on them perhaps. It induces oxidation and holds oil really well. Or, just oil them after they get a rusty patina.

[John B]

Leave them submerged in oil until you need them

[brian.pierson]

All,

thanks for the replies. What type of oil do you use to treat them. WD-40 is a water displacement but very light oil. I don't know if it will hold up over the winter or not. If you store the tools, with handles, in the oil, I would think a vegetable oil like linseed or canola makes sense.

Thanks again.

[Ten Hammers]

What Arftist said. To each his own I guess. Get some sharp new scotchbrite and some Marvel Mystery Oil. Scrub the metal, wipe sith a blue paper towel soaked in Marvel. This works very well for rusty anvils and preserves them afterwards. Marvel in a squirt (or pump) can is excellent light machine oil for the drill press or other needs. I keep it and bar and chain oil for the power hammers. I also use LPS #1 for very light needs. Simple is good for me. I wouldn't use WD 40 for anything myself. I DO use brake parts cleaner for given cleaning needs and I have a favorite penetrant and cutting oil. I use olive oil for finish and THAT beats nothing if you are in camp and have nothing else. Thank you Junior for re-acquainting me with the Marvel I used in my youth. Marvel sells at Wally World (pint, quart, gallon).

[John B]

Any Light oil should do, I favour the hydraulic, and vegetable oils, it also helps to stop handles drying out and coming loose when summer comes

[David Einhorn]

Or you could try wax for waxing cars. It dries, does not smell, and does not get on your hands and clothing after it dries.

[AndrewOC]

A product i'm trying at the moment is 'G15'. It's strong point is sticking to metal but can easily be rubbed off. Others in the trad tools group are quite pleased with it, even on outdoor items. Bad points are dust sticks to it and i haven't tested it for flamability yet!
I believe G15 comes from north america, maybe someone else has experianced it?

AndrewOC

[David Einhorn]

A product i'm trying at the moment is 'G15'.....AndrewOC

I could not find any information on G15. Is it an oil, a paint, a wax, some sort of finishing compound? :confused:

[AndrewOC]

:D
sorry! Cat was on my knee, so didn't check details at the time.

Put crudely G15 is a spray on goo.
It is a product of australianinhibitor (.com.au) developed (it seems) by another company Daubert Cromwell of the USA.
G15 is the trade name of the Aussie version- i can't figure out which of the many D.C. products it really is!

Ours is called 'Ferro-Pak G15' a 'soft film- long term rust preventative'. A tool club member gets the aerosol cans wholesale; we buy them for $15 (aus).
Check out the websites, they are detailed.

Having said that, i'm interested to hear how the auto wax works as well; i'd assume dirt doesn't stick to it like g15.

AndrewOC

Edited October 26, 2009 by AndrewOC

[David Einhorn]

.... i'm interested to hear how the auto wax works as well; i'd assume dirt doesn't stick to it like g15. AndrewOC

I apply a heavy coat of auto wax on the tools and surfaces of stuff that I value, anvils, stationary tools, etc. It dries hard and does not seem to have stuff stick to it once dry. The wax wears off during use so you don't have to clean it off before using the tool.

[chrisfrick]

On stuff that I have that needs to be stored, I use LPS #3--it goes on a little thin, then some of it evaporates and forms a rather sticky film. Not the best for something like a hammer that needs to be used. If you have material with a slight coating of rust, just rub it down with any available light machine oil of your choice. I have many tools that I buy new and pay top dollar for that are nice and shiny and then develop over about a year or two period, a really nice thin layer of rust--by keeping that layer on there and somewhat maintained throught the use of light oiling, they should last a very, very long time without any appreciable wear.

-Chris

[ThomasPowers]

Be traditional! wipe everything down with linseed oil for tools that will not be used often.

Handles as well as heads!

[ofafeather]

Be traditional! wipe everything down with linseed oil for tools that will not be used often.

Handles as well as heads!

Do you use boiled linseed oil or straight pure linseed? I'll second the auto wax, also other paste waxes. Wood workers often use paste wax to preserve their tools. Another light oil used by Japanese woodworkers is Cameila oil. Many woodwork tool suppliers carry it these days.

[ThomasPowers]

Generally boiled as it help avoids the gummies; Of course out here in NM I can use plain and then UV cure it using sunlight!

[KST1-Derek Fultz]

You might try Penetrol. I put it on my rusty anvil, and while it is indoors, it has lasted quite awhile. Some people mix a little Japan Dryer in with it to harden it up a bit.

-Derek

[CBrann]

don't forget camphor balls in your tool boxes and with precision tools... in sealed areas it keep moisture down, and critters out....
Cliff