twcoffey Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I just wanted to point out a few things I encountered and what I did. 1. In my area the auto scrapers for the most part eliminated their inventory of the 1980s and earlier vehicles when scrap price peaked about a 1.5 years ago. Also some of them are keeping the temp tires and using them flat on the ground to lay their inventory on. I found some temp wheels for free at repair shops where they have to pay to have them hauled away. As far as the hub I opted to use the recommended Northern Tool axle and hub instead of spending time and money on a snipe hunt for a used auto axle. 2. In making the tie rods I found that schedule 40 has an ID that is too large for 1" OD bushings. One could use Schedule 80 or in my case I made the rod ends from 1-3/8" shafting that I happened to have. 3. I changed the spring ends from a fabrication/weldment per plans to a solid piece out of solid 3" shafting. I will add future items as I continue on the project. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Welcome aboard TW, glad to have you. Nice description, do you have pictures to go with? We love pics you know. If you'll click "User CP" at the top of the page and edit your profile to show your location it can make a big difference. IFI is represented by members in more than 50 countries an a lot of info is location specific. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 (edited) This jig keeps rod end parallel in both planes during welding. Just something I came up with while trying to solve the parallel problem. I am sure someone has thought of this before. Ted Edited September 18, 2009 by twcoffey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 Attached photo of the turned spring bushing mention in item 3 above. This part is beefed up a little over the original and will require about 0.08" notch in PN 210 arm to allow for more clearance for the thicker rim of the bushing at the top edge only. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I've made similar jigs to keep things parallel myself. The last one I had some 1" x 1 1/2" bar I just drilled. Fitted bolts tightened held everything in place. How do you think the additional weight of the spring bushings will effect things? Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 Frosty, I don't think a little increased weight at that point is important. We shall see when I get things together. That is one item that is easy to replace. I thought that the welded spring bushings might give problems of bending of the 3" washer weld area after thousands of repeated blows. By the way I found in my set of plans several dimensions that are probably typo errors. I have a first edition so maybe they are fixed by now. I will list them when I get through cutting and fitting. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 You could turn a shallow chamfer on the outer rim of the spring bushing to get the clearance. You'll still have the strength where it's needed and can avoid notching the arms. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 Okay, I'm thinking these bushings are in the coil spring between the toggles? If so the weight shouldn't mean anything. Frosty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted September 24, 2009 Author Share Posted September 24, 2009 Dkunkler, Thanks for the suggestion on the chamfer. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 I like the idea of being able to remove the tire from the rim for fabrication ease so I made holes in the crank plate to permit the a socket wrench to access the lug nuts after assembly. Unforunately when this is done you weaken the area around the crank pin. I resolved this by adding a 3/8" 3" x 5" plate and rearranged the spokes as illustrated in the attached photo and the drawing. A word of caution: I haven't run the hammer yet so I may have changes to this scheme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 You may want to consider the extra wear on the motor from weight and inertia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 I don't think that will be a problem since I am only adding 1.4 lbs near the pivot and have counter-balanced it with .5 lbs of lead to an assembly that has a total weight of 49.3 lbs. Nevertheless I am using a 1.5HP 3 phase motor so that I have speed control with a VFD and more than enough power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Some typos and/or changes that I made in Plans of 2007. Page 11 of the plans Shows a Counter Weight of 7 ¾ lbs. After static balancing the tire with toggle arms less the hammer head I found the value of 11.5 lbs more appropriate than the value I previously posted. This may vary with your particular materials and construction. Page 12 of the plans Shows a radius of 2 ¾” for the plate opening which should be 3 ¾”. Also on page 12, the note (½” square x 22”) should read (½” square x 6”). I modified the crank plate to allow for access to tire lug nuts allowing the tire to be removed completely for assembly welding and added some additional reinforcement to the plate to compensate for the added access holes as shown in previously posted photo. Page 15 of the plans shows a dimension of 2 ¼” which should be 1 ¾” Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finn;-) Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Beautiful build, and I love the 3phase with a VFD. I am terribly curious how fast you can get it to cycle and just how slow you can get your hammer to cycle??? Very Cool. Is that a little toolrest to help feed the bar in level? or is it a standard fixture for mounting spring dies? Christian Husband Father Blacksmith Farrier Farmer everything else just gets in the way;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 Beautiful build, and I love the 3phase with a VFD. I am terribly curious how fast you can get it to cycle and just how slow you can get your hammer to cycle??? Very Cool. Is that a little toolrest to help feed the bar in level? or is it a standard fixture for mounting spring dies? Christian Husband Father Blacksmith Farrier Farmer everything else just gets in the way;-) I normally use the VFD on a drill press but it is a simple matter to share it with the hammer(by swapping twist-lock plugs). I have a second VFD that is shared between a lathe and milling machine. The speed range should be from about 1/2 to 2X normal speed(1800rpm) but my interest is to slow it down at times. I have not experimented much as the shop is tooooo cold right now. The adjustable toolrest is for holding dies and other special tooling with vise grips as a clamp. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finn;-) Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I normally use the VFD on a drill press but it is a simple matter to share it with the hammer(by swapping twist-lock plugs). I have a second VFD that is shared between a lathe and milling machine. The speed range should be from about 1/2 to 2X normal speed(1800rpm) but my interest is to slow it down at times. I have not experimented much as the shop is tooooo cold right now. The adjustable toolrest is for holding dies and other special tooling with vise grips as a clamp. Ted Thanks:-) Great tip on setting up the VFD as a portable power source, and being able to use it on multiple pieces of equipment, makes great sense: their expensive, and your likely not using more than one piece of 3phase equipment at a time... I saw how you set it up on that portable base, and thought it was interesting. I will definitely be using that idea. My best freind just refitted his dual belt grinder settup to a 3hp 3phase with a VFD, I want to build a 2x72 like that, and I have a 3phase lathe that my father-in-law said can live in my shop once it is all enclosed;-) Ainght winter forging great;-) cooking one side while you feet and backside freeze, and the "joy" of reaching for a tool off the rack that is the same temp as the south pole. Yep I understand compeletly;-) Christian Husband Father Blacksmith Farrier Farmer the rest just keeps getting in the way;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 Thanks:-) Great tip on setting up the VFD as a portable power source, and being able to use it on multiple pieces of equipment, makes great sense: their expensive, and your likely not using more than one piece of 3phase equipment at a time... I saw how you set it up on that portable base, and thought it was interesting. I will definitely be using that idea. My best freind just refitted his dual belt grinder settup to a 3hp 3phase with a VFD, I want to build a 2x72 like that, and I have a 3phase lathe that my father-in-law said can live in my shop once it is all enclosed;-) Ainght winter forging great;-) cooking one side while you feet and backside freeze, and the "joy" of reaching for a tool off the rack that is the same temp as the south pole. Yep I understand compeletly;-) Christian Husband Father Blacksmith Farrier Farmer the rest just keeps getting in the way;-) I have the parts to add remote on/off pushbutton and speed control for each VFD but haven't got that done yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rakessler Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 First I want to apolegize for my spelling and the LARGE nasty print, I like the addition of the extra holes. Along with the addition of surport around the holes. How did that modification work??????????????? Rakessler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 First I want to apolegize for my spelling and the LARGE nasty print, I like the addition of the extra holes. Along with the addition of surport around the holes. How did that modification work??????????????? Rakessler Worked fine. I have had the tire off and on a few times. I haven't run it a lot because of cold weather has kept me out of the shop. It also could be done other ways such as using a thicker plate like 3/8" or 7/16" instead of going with the spokes and a 1/4" plate and my backup plate. That would eliminate some of the welding. At that point of the hammer there are not a lot of force but you don't want a thin plate flexing. Another point to be aware is the balancing. In this thread I discuss my experience and method of balancing. Also read this thread: about welding on the rim. Hope this helps. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTB Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 "Worked fine. I have had the tire off and on a few times. I haven't run it a lot because of cold weather has kept me out of the shop. It also could be done other ways such as using a thicker plate like 3/8" or 7/16" instead of going with the spokes and a 1/4" plate and my backup plate. That would eliminate some of the welding." Just starting my tire hammer but since I don't care for assembling something that can't be removed easily I really like your idea of access holes for the lug nuts. Having used your hammer for a while now, would you add any modifications to your original drawing as I am about to fab that part. I am also mounting the foot treadle on an axle with cotter keys and making the crossbar removable in case I ever want to alter the configuration. Thanks Ted, Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 Keith, I haven't found anything that needs to be changed at this point. Hammer works just fine from my perspective. Good luck on the project. Lay persons coming into the shop always want to know what that is. I think the tire mounted at six feet is puzzling. When I say its a power hammer they always say "I get it". Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTB Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Thanks for the well wishes Ted. I'm going to need it. I too went the Northern Tool route for the axle and hub but I am still looking for a tire and wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 Keith, Go to local auto repair shops especially those that repair or scrap wrecks and inquire. I found mine that way and the guy was happy to give it to me because he said he has to pay to have them disposed of. One scrap yard I went to puts them on the ground and sets the junkers on them to keep the cars out of the mud. You may ask them to save you one if they will. Not all scrap dealers are friendly and easy to deal with. Sometimes $25 to $50 might bring them around. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTB Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Good idea, I'll do that. Thanks Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTB Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Used your suggestion regarding the smaller auto salvage dealers and found a tire and wheel. Thanks again Ted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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