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I Forge Iron

workshop from scratch!


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Hello All,
I'm in the process of setting up a new workshop. I rented a workshop fully kitted before this so it's been a long process of procuring tools etc. Then it took ages for the estate where I live to decide where they wanted to let me make noise! Funny enough, I've ended up on the farm in what I am guessing what was the original Smiddy, there is a raised hearth platform with a fireplace flue in the wall, so when I get more organized I'l be building a coal forge.

It's getting there, I'm not too far off actually getting to do some fun work... I've got commissions waiting to do. It's been difficult as I live in what is termed a "remote area" and it's hard to get suppliers to deliver, I cannot actually get steel delivered to my door, I have to drive over the mountain with a trailer to collect it, but that is the price I pay for choosing to live and work somewhere so beautiful.

Stage 1- Empty room they used for storage, knocked out the shelves, and knocked out the window.

Anyway, some photos for those who like to peep on other's workspaces!!!

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stage 2- Most everything moved in- built my worktable, mounted one of my post vices to it for the time being, have another post vice to mount- still deciding on an appropriate stand for it, think i'd like to have it semi mobile as i'm short on space. Still need to get my big 4.5cwt anvil moved in. I put my tool racks on casters, Thanks Adrian Wood for that suggestion!!

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Edited by tzonoqua
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Thanks, the rustic looking stone walls with lime mortar are lovely to look at, but the mortar is old and a bit crumbly, therefore, I'm finding it's always dusty... not quite sure what I can do about that...

I'm in Scotland now. The old power hacksaw is good, very noisy motor on it, but it works, need to build some stock stands for use with it. Would still like to have a nice new power chopsaw, as it would take up less space, but it'll do for now!

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Look into penetrating epoxy or the stuff they use to coat eggs so they don't break as easily during shipping. I think it is sodium silica or I know it as water glass and liquid glass. It is also the binding agent in ceramic shell for metal casting.

Just make sure it will work with the lime based mortar.

I did a quick search and found this description... Hope it helps-
What is Water Glass?

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Nice looking job there, im in the process of installing my tools in a new space also. I assume that at this point no matter how much consideration you put into the placement of tools, only time will tell and by working in the space were certain items should be positioned. Leg vices are very usefull and even moreso if you can work all the way around them. You were talking about a mobile leg vice. I have it in mind to attach the leg vice frames (made from 4" box and welded onto 1/2" plate) to the floor via 4 bolts. I will use 4 number 5/8 bolts and drill 4 number 1 1/4" holes into concrete. I will then drill through 1" round and hollow out to accomodate 5/8 thread and resin them into the floor flush to coinside with the holes on the plate of the leg vice stand. The end result allows you to move your vice from its position without any threaded bar coming out of the floor (tripping hazard). If you countersink the holes in the base plate you can use countersink allen key bolts which then keep the elements that you have resined into the ground free from dirt when you remove your vice.
Hope this is of use
Michael.:)

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Ummm, Chrisfrick, I'm no guy, but more of a Blacksmith Babe!

Fe- I'll check that out, it's more of a minor annoyance at this point, but I will want to sort it eventually.

Myloh, I was thinking maybe something on wheels as in the Hofi blueprint, but getting a chunk of 20mm plate is the difficulty! I also wanted to avoid having to drill or mount anything into the concrete. But we shall see what I eventually end up doing!

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Beautiful shop and scenery. You are one fortunate lady. Care to post more pictures, some of the shop would be good too. :D

I live in Alberta and only a 3 hr drive to the mountains, maybe I will get a chance to settle closer to the mountains and nature. Something relaxing about being secluded and just the sound of your working. Until that day, my sounds will blend with the sounds of the city.

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WOW! That is one sweet smiddy Darlin.

(Yes Chris, she's a . . . she, I'm not THAT funny. ;) )

The one thing I'd do differently from first glance is put the work bench in front of the window to take advantage of the natural light for bench work. I know you're still moving in and arranging your space so I'm sure you already thought of it but I had to mention it anyway.

The view out the window is even excellent. Will they let you replace the gravel in the bunker with coal?

Frosty

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Oh yeah, I forgot about the mortar dust. They make inexpensive masonry sealers that are water based and good for, ceramic tile, brick, stone and mortar. You can simply put it in a pump up garden sprayer and spray the walls.

Even if water infiltration is coming from the outside the stuff will go a long way toward controlling crumbling and dust as it sticks it together. It'll make the stone look wet though but the matt or flat finish isn't shiny.

Frosty

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hi colleen what a lovely space youve got - bet you cant wait to get your hands dirty with some work in there.! will look forward to more pics as workshop gets established. i got mine moved in and like myloh says it can take a while to decide where you want everything - its getting there - nothing like yours to look at view etc. but it is mine tho! at long last!

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Thanks for the comments everyone! I've already moved stuff around, unfortunately as you can see it's not the biggest.. about 30m2 so I need to be very organized. And yes, Beth, I can't wait to do some real fun work!!! However, I am learning a lot just getting it all organized. In September I've got an old Blacker Power hammer coming, have no idea where that is going to go!! It's slightly frustrating cause the kids are off school for their summer break, so it's difficult to get down there full time, but it's so nice to have my own space!
Frosty, point well taken about having a workbench in front of the window... This whole process reminds me of those puzzle games you have as a kid, with little squares you move around til you finally arrange the complete picture!!
Anyway, the farm manager has taken a little interest in having a go at the anvil, so I'm sure he'll make room for a wee pile of coal!
And Dennis, it is a spectacular spot, a special place in the Highlands, tons of red deer running around, the other day there was one in the barn nosing around at the feed bins!

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Coleen, indeed a nice work space. Good for the head but I can see frustrating. I have a fair bit of experience working in those tight spaces. I notice open ceiling and see no joists (lumber accross the top of the walls for installation of ceiling). Might I suggest you use those cubes available above you for a steel rack if possable. I do yes understand the issues of weight and availability of space to keep inventory. Perhaps the weight of the rack placed next to a wall (say 1 foot in from the wall, overhead and adjusted for your height) would be ok on the rafters.

I also have to haul my own steel. When I get home, I just open the shop door and take the steel in, placing the leading end on the rack overhead and then push on through. Keeping stock seperate in the rack can yes be an issue but I live with it. Strong stock (like small channel and tube) can be bolted to sides of rafters (the lumber that is holding the shingles) and then cut to length for crossmembers to hang steel from. Yes, I have to open the door to take some steel off the rack. I also have some 4" square tubing cut into 6" pieces welded to the bottom of this rack. The tubing is cut so the stock can be placed/removed without threading through the end. With a saw below this rack (and perhaps sheet stowage behind the saw, under the rack, against the wall ) you can utilize space better. Material handling is the whole gig. Back the truck to the door, unload stock through the door and have a paralell stock rack to load to. You can also of course stow stock on a rack that is against the wall, the rack setting on the floor and bolted to the wall. Of course this is assuming that the owner will allow such molestation of their property. This is a really neat stone building and they might not appreciate you drilling rafters and walls. Yes, I have experience stowing stock on end as you show in the picture.

Am curious if you will have heat in the shop along with the forge ? As post script I might add that if you have a piece of equipment that may or may not need moved, a hand truck is handy. If you build the table (or stand or whatever) to accept the truck blade under it, you can move stuff around that way. The wheels on the table also make it nice indeed.

I build adjustable stock stands for forge or vise or whatever light enough for one handed pickup and then they can be hung from the overhead against a wall, out of the way when not needed. I have one heavy stand for cutting heavy stock (like big pipe or tubing).

I have had a stick welder stashed on a wall, the welder on a stand similar to what would hold a stub chimney. The Welder sets where the chimney would set and the space below it is used for small shelving to hold consumables and helmet. Lag hooks on the stand hold the leads and the leads can be stowed out of the way. I have also had this situation with ceiling joists and the leads through eyes screwed to the ceiling going accross the room to a welding table. You may of course have the table right by the welder too but tripping on stuff is not handy as I'm sure you know.

Your work inspires me. Keep it up and don't forget to make a place for a coffee pot and some donuts ( I know , tea and crumpetts ).

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I humbly suggest that planning your smithy include not moving your metal stock more than you need to. A rack next to the entrance, either inside or out, next to your stock cutting station, followed by your forging area, followed by your finishing area, followed by your area for storage before the items go out the door.

Consider a ton of steel bars. First you move the steel bars from the truck to the center of the floor. Then you move the ton up the ladder into the rafters. Then you take the ton down the ladder and move it to one side of the shop to be cut. Then you move it to the other side to forge it.... Plan your shop so that you move your iron as little as possible. Plan your forging area as a "work triangle" if possible.

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Myloh, they make a fastener like that. I don't know if it comes that big though. The smaller ones I have used have course threads for directly driving into a properly sized hole in wood or stone, but I only ever needed 1/4-20, and never looked for bigger.

Phil

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"Perhaps the weight of the rack placed next to a wall (say 1 foot in from the wall, overhead and adjusted for your height) would be ok on the rafters. "

Who said anything about a ladder ? My rack can be fed from the floor and me flat footed. Steel comes off the truck and never put down. From the truck to the rack. The trick is to get the right height of the rack ( ADJUSTED FOR YOUR HEIGHT) so that you can comfortably feed the rack and pull from the rack flat footed and also see the stock from the end. Weight is an issue. I have nowhere NEAR a ton on my rack and it is about a foot from the bearing wall, thus getting support from the wall as well. Material handling since 1958 or so (starting with small round bales.) I move stuff TWICE normally (once to load the truck and once to unload). If the whole piece doesn't get used and doesn't fit the overhead rack, I have a rack on the back of the welding table for shorter stuff and cardboard bolt boxes for short pieces ( 3/16 square and rod to 5/8 square and rod). :)

Edited by Ten Hammers
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Yes it is kind of like a puzzle game except the pieces are a LOT heavier. I like to use graph paper and scale size cutouts of the major tools and equipment to check arrangements. I have a couple computer programs to do this too but the paper is faster and more intuitive for me.

Once you get an arrangement you think will work for you life sized cardboard cutouts and mockups on a chalk grid in a parking lot can answer any unasnwered questions. Before I built our house I didn't know how much room to allow for people, furniture, etc. etc. so I did a LOT of shuffling aroud on graph paper in addition to computer renderings.

The suggestions about material handling are important unless you have no intention of doing either large or quantity work. If you are going to do production runs material handling can mean the difference between make or break on a bid.

While you try to make things fit into a kitchen-like triangle arrangement be thinking about flow patterns. The less back and forth the better, material in a shop acts like moving water, if it flows smoothly it's in and out with a minimum muss and fuss but just a little turbulence and movement can almost stop completely. It's also more tiring and a LOT more dangerous.

Frosty

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Everyone, thanks for the comments!

I understand about the "flow" of metal through a shop, but I can't say I'd ever achieve it!! Although, the reason my old mechanical saw is by the door so that I can swing it round across the door and chop the lengths as I bring the steel in. Not sure flow patterns really work for how I work, I'm "intuitive"... or something like that! Basically, I'm an artist before anything, and I don't neccessarily take the most direct route from A to B, as much as I try to make plans!

Today was the first day I actually did any forging.. and some cutting with the oxy/propane. I am already rethinking how I've bolted my post vice to the metal table, will put a machinist vice there- even a little bit of hammering on the vice on a metal table sent really unpleasant vibrations through me! I'm of the opinion that working with metal doesn't have to be noisy and dirty!! (well maybe a little bit!) I think I'll end up anchoring it into the ground as in Myloh's suggestion.
I think after actual using my workshop I'll get there, re-arranging those "heavy" pieces!!!! Or perhaps it may be one of those continual evolutionary processes!

Made beginnings on a commission today, trial in mild steel, final in stainless...

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