overmodulated Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 a general purpose Sasquash Slayer... 2nd crack at attaching handles (used walnut). first time messing with bolsters (used 416 stainless). mistakes aplenty... like trying to forge and grind a flat piece of stock. still can't get a decent uniform hollow grind, so this failed attempt was converted to convex edge after the initial attempt. will keep trying thanks for all of your advise and guidance throughout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panzertank27 Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 wow, killer knife, im jealous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 zombie killer!!! nice! satisfying to forge them from a pice of metal miles away from the finished shape isnt it! I find it a bit dull starting with 1" x 1/4" x 6" long stock! good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triw Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Very nice work especially the polishing you did good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc_cooter Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Great work. I have a clip that was dredged up from a near by river. You have inspired me to give mine a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strube1369 Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 That's stunning. I have a bunch of those in the garage and never even saw a knife in them. Inspiring work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Well done. That looks like a hand full of knife' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longfletch27 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 i just started one of those the other day, i got it cut and beat a piece straight, i drew it out a little bit, its some tough metal to move. awsome knife! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamj Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 awesome knife i want one now. does anyone know the carbon content of those clips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overmodulated Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Tx for the compliments. If I recall correctly, Nitewatchman put it in the 1045 - 1060 vicinity, so it's just bordering the "high-carbon" category. Personally I'd like it to have a little more carbon or other hardening alloy. Quenched it in peanut oil and the edge didn't work out to be as hard as blades I made from 1090 or 5160. Should a large heavy beast have a little more give? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim L. Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 Very cool! How does one come across these? What was it's origional purpose? :confused: Jim L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overmodulated Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 Hi. These clips go underneath the railroad tracks, up against the RR ties, to keep the track from sliding longitudinally over time. You can find them along abandoned tracks, although they're not as common as loose spikes. heed all the warnings that people are about to lay on you about trespassing train tracks ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoney4325 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 SWEET!!! Would it work on zombies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 very nice i have made a few blades out of them (and i simply edge hardened them in water) they are very tough. i have about a dozen + of them in my shop. they make very good rodded punches, or chisels, or machetes, or hardy tools, or even my... i mean A shear for barstock like that of francis whittaker. but i havn't enough patient..or is it pacients?.. umm.. PAA-SHUNTS! ugh. to draw them blade thin as i did when i started at 13 years old. it isn't fun. only a few years later and i wonder why i spent my time doing that. Oh well i learned much. anyway very nice sasquatch squasher you have there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overmodulated Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 youngsmith: what's your impression about the edge hardness you achieved with this material when quenched in water? I thought I could do better than what I achieved using peanut oil as the quechant. As a guage of hardness, in addition to the obvious file checks, I look at how easily the blade can be scratched superficially. It left more to be desired. But I can't tell if it's a limitation of the steel, or my method. Am considering using water next time. Please give me your opinion about the hardness/edge holding ability you achieved. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 I had one of these tested a while back. It was 0.51% carbon and 0.80% manganese, and not much else. 1050, in other words. Which is about the same as what the old-time Japanese swordsmiths were working with, except their steel had little or no manganese. You ought to be able to get it to 60 RC or better as-quenched, but you'll need water or a very fast oil. (Canola is fairly fast if it's hot -- say 130 F or so. I doubt you'll get 100% full hardness in canola, but then you're a lot less likely to wreck the blade, too.) Wear resistance probably won't be outstanding at any hardness. It'll should give you a really nice hamon if you clay quench it, especially in water. That's if it survives. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 it gives a nice quench line in warm water or fast oil. i etched in muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide gives nice def but must be neutralized and oiled quickly or it rusts. i have had good results by quenching blades by pouring water on the edge or heating just the edge and quenching in oil then water... hard to tell, easy to show. but touchy,very touchy. i usually edge quench in cool motor oil and it gets too hard to file. usually no temper. tools i quench in oil, dont need to be hard just tough for a punch or chisel. hope this helped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.