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I Forge Iron

Jim L.

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  • Location
    Brunswick, Georgia
  • Interests
    knifemaking, winemaking, modelaircraft making/flying
  • Occupation
    Respiratory Therapist

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  1. I believe it is correct to say "distal taper" as its a reference from end to middle. Very nice knife IMHO.
  2. I honestly don't recall who said that about not changing the sanding direction. Some how the scratches come right out with decreasing grits and a nice sanding block.
  3. Some people say "never, ever, ever change directions when sanding". I subscribe to the camp that says " changing direction while sanding helps to find then elliminate scratches left by coarser grits."
  4. You are correct in that with in 99% certainty, using science [wing loading (square surface ÷ weight = weight/ in. sq.), air velocity, air foil shape (Bernoulli's laws and the venturi principle) yada, yada, yada] that "X" aircraft will fly. I merely stated, using perception only the eye cannot explain scientific fact. That said, feathers were not meant to be ruffled, nor undergarments bunched, much less ill-spirited and/or sarcastic comments meant to be inspired. I can only state the fact that I have witnessed this phenomenon and admit that I cannot offer a scientific explanation as to why it occurs to my or anyone else's satisfaction. There are as stated and conceded, too many variables. My ignorance as to how it happens isn't proof, scientific or other wise that it doesn't.
  5. If you flap your arms real hard, chances are you won't feel any lift (um, it's imperceptible for many reasons). The wings of a C-5 Galaxy transport must generate excess of 500,000 pounds of lift in order to become airborne. You can not "perceive" the reasons between the results with your senses. Ergo the heavier than air craft was concieved of by an oldtimer making a joke. Do not discount an idea on merit of perception only. No, I can't tell you the molecular properties with certainty of a particular metal at a given thermal state. I can tell you that occurrence of warpage is greatly reduced using near identical angles in the same quench vessel and quenchant when in the northerly orientation versus 90° to that.
  6. I believe that some folk are missing the point. It is my belief that the OP was showing that it was an interesting process, that it could be done. Not as a recommendation as a fantastic methodology for manufacture
  7. Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
  8. Sorry, nope. Not a joke. The explanation given was that ferrous metals heated to non-magnetic will seek out magnetic north as they cool. What ever the reason it seems to work. Believe it, or don't. I've had little to no warpage since beginning the practice. Science can explain everything, but that doesn't mean we understand what we are told.....
  9. Well done, Sir. It should serve you well. How did you do your heat treat? Most of tje scratches can be removed ising a sanding block a progressively finer grits of sand paper.
  10. Have ever tried using a maul or billie club instead of a hammer? The wood, being softer than metal won't ding the blade nearly as bad. If it bends during normalizing there may still be stress in the steel. My experience has been to normalize again if I have to give the steel another whack. I've seen the 3 pin method done on just hardened blades and it makes me grit my teeth. The maul comes in handy where you have a few seconds for a sraightening whack without stressing the steel too much. That is a shame anout the break. It looks.to jabe had a nice profile. The profile could be reground as an interesting skinner in an effort to save it.
  11. I would recomend that you bring the blade to near finish grind and sanding before quench. Leave some meat on the cutting edge. This allows for better thermal retention and less chance for warpage. This sounds like a bunch of whodoo; finf magnetic north and align the blade N/S at quench. A very good start, Sir.
  12. All too true, Theo. I enjoyed your episodes very much on F&F.
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