pkrankow Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Hey all, I'm building my first propane forge. I am wondering how high the bottom of your forge is from the floor? I'm talking about the inside, where you put your metal, or your material rest height if you suspend your material. How far does your attached material rest extend out (min/max for adjustable ones)? If your material rest sets on the floor, then it is not attached, but please say so and include your typical range of positions, and the type of stock you are usually using. I understand that everybody forges different size materials, and some people like having attached handles and others like using tongs to hold all their work. Feel free to mention what you typically use. My forge body is a 16 gallon drum cut just above and below the ribs. This makes it 11 inches long. I squished it down some to reduce the overall volume some, yet still have a large flat floor. It is about 12 inches tall making it 16 inches wide. I used some bar clamps to start the shape, then leaned on it, massaging the bend tighter to make the shape not spring out, rolled the edges down some to keep it squished, and pop-riveted partial ends on. It is a 2 burner configuration, and I need to order insulation still. Yes Frosty, squishing a long cylinder evenly is difficult, but squishing a short one is rather easy. Didn't take too long after I decided to make it shorter. I'll cut a part of the side out and weld or bolt it back together if I ever decide to make a longer forge using a 16 gallon drum. Thanks in advance. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I try to make all the tables about the same height, and then have the various equipment so that stock will clear the top of those tables when using the various tools. If I remember correctly I standardized the table heights at about 32 inches from the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che Guevara Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 pk i have my forge about chest height as i dont care to bend over and look into it i also have a table top in front of the forge about 2 feet square so i can rest materials on it. my little propane forge is about 18" long and 7" square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Phil: My forge floor is pretty high, 39" so I can see what's going on without bending. I realize it may be less convenient if I start doing heavier work, if so I'll post my impressions to the forum. Yeah, a short section of tube is easier to deform evenly. Still. . . Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 Well, I decided to let materials on hand guide me. I am using a steel bolt together shelf unit that was six feet tall. After cutting the legs down, the shelf I am bolting the forge to is about 3 ft high, with legs and insulation putting the forge floor in the 40-42 inch ballpark. With wheels on one end it's more of a cart now. Since it is a bolt together, I can easily go lower if I find it too high. Not directly related, but my new workbenches are 36 inches tall too. I used the Simpson Strong tie plans, but used pocket screws. I can add the heavy duty brackets later if it needs them. Eight $5 brackets per bench was a bit too stiff for the budget. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Once you get your forge up and running you can forge your bench reinforcements, They'll not only be stronger but they'll look better. Good practice too. It doesn't really matter what the project is or how well it turns out, every time you heat steel and hammer on it you'll get a little better at it. You're hammer control will improve, you're eye for proportions and isolation allowances, fit and precision everything. Probably the very best aid to learning the craft is having a clear goal when you begin a forging session, whether it's a simple drive hook, a strap hinge, plant hanger or corner bracket. If you have a clear picture of what you want the finished piece to be the faster you'll learn all the myriad things necessary to achieve it. To this end I agree with the beginner who is tired of banging out endless points, hooks, leaves, etc. Sure every one will sharpen the skills but having something you need or want really speeds you on the path. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Honestly I never thought of forging the reinforcements. Now I have a list of real projects to do: tongs, a squid or hummingbird when I learn forge welding, and I want to make some leaf key rings to give at Christmas as well. I found a small stack of T-post when I was digging drainage a few weeks ago, so all I need now is insulation. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 My forge floor is just under shoulder height. Same reason - to see inside. I usually work small stuff that I can move with one hand. My material rest is attached to the forge stand, which is a rolling toolbox. You can see pics at http://ironringforge.com. It folds flat to the front of the forge, but can swing out and extend something like 1-1/2 ft to 2 ft away from the front. And I can adjust it up and down. It was made from some junkyard rebar and scrap. My most recent big project was a birdbath (somewhere else on this forum) that weighed about 35 lbs. That did strain my shoulders a bit, getting it in and out of the forge, but not too badly. If that's the kind of work I did on a very regular basis, I would probably lower the forge. However, my material stand did a good job keeping it in the forge. One thing I changed fairly recently was the layout of the forging "triangle". I now put my anvil between me and the forge and just reach across the anvil to put stuff in and out. The problem with propane is the dragon's breath, and having my back or side to the forge gets pretty uncomfortable. If I aim the forge mouth away, then I can't just peek inside to see how things are going. With the new arrangement, I'm always in a position to see and it's actually quicker to get from the forge to the anvil. No swinging around. My treadle hammer is to my right and the vises are to the left, behind the anvil. They're the only things I need to take a couple steps to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 (edited) I can't ever remember "making" one a certain height. It came out the way it did because of what ever I scrounged up to make the base. Built one on an old hand truck, portable and had a place for a 10gallon propane tank. Edited July 30, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muttt Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 My forge is made from an 11 inch wide 1/2 inch thick piece or pipe that is 18 inches deep (yeah I know ..... overkill) anyway, I welded it onto a piece of u channel and put it on top of a post and welded the post to a truck tire rim for a base. My forge is about five feet high (I'm six feet tall .... so it puts it right at nipple/armpit level) so I can straighten my arm and stick it straight into the opening. Plus I don't have to bend to put things in and take them out, and I can see what's going on all the time ...... without bending. When I am done with my anvil table .... the top of my anvil will be at the level of my elbow. No bending to poudn with hammer. Your back will thank you. Mutt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 (edited) It's funny I was just going to come on here and ask. I'm glad to see i'm not that far off in my concerns and my solutions. Just futzing around with my Cayenne Forge I could tell that since my anvil is on the higher side 32.5" (i'm 5'8") I didn't want to have a low forge that I have to stoop down to look into. High anvil + low forge would be really fighting it. I think chest height would be more comfortable for me as well. I'd rather raise the metal and put it into the forge then have to bend over and stoop my head to see in, which is also probably not as safe. I really liked the idea of an adjustable stand but something that bolted and unbolted meant I'd have to have someone hold it while raising and lowering and since I'm by myself that just seems like a huge pain. What I came up with is this and I hope to come back and show some pics in a week or so when done with all this. I'm going to weld 4 pieces of sq tubing to a tool stand I got at harbor freight. Then in that tubing i'm going to use 3/4" sq rod. The top of each rod will be connected to a steel plate or table that the forge will be bolted onto. So now It can go up and down in these 4 channels. I'll also drill some holes so I can bolt/pin the sq stock in place for security. In the center of the four posts I'm going to build a threaded height adjustment. Basically a screwjack so I can lower and raise it through a broad range. Basically from hip height all the way up to chest height. Below in the base of the stand i'm building a hardy rack for all my hardy tools. This is all going to be pretty heavy so I decided that I'd put it on 4 castors so I can move it around the shop when necessary. I'll weld on 4 machine feet so I can lift it up off the castors. I'll also be able to level it in place with the four adjustable feet. It will be a bit of work but having an excellent stand I think really makes or breaks the use of the forge. Just like having a bad stand for a bench grinder can increase vibration, break your back bending over, etc. On the sides i'll weld on some racks for all my tongs and I should be in business. The stand I bought looks kinda like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46075 To me it always seems easier to add a few things to something already made then start the whole project from scratch which is usually a headache. Edited September 9, 2009 by Avadon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 My gas forge floor is about the hieghth of my solar plexus, and from 2 steps away (my anvil area) I can readily see in the entire length, I keep a blacksmiths helper in front of it for stock rest, and it sits way above my coal forge, which I have been told is too low, but I can see down on it pretty well, to each their own I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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