Last night I decided to take a shot at doing a fork and I think it came out pretty well for the second one. However I was wondering what others do at the base of the split for the tines. I spread the stock out then hot cut with a chisel and fold one tine aside to draw out the other. when both are done I still have a split like crack at the joint. Do you just file it out? Does anyone punch a hole there before splitting? I need to make some spring fullers to make my transitions from section to section smoother.

Dick

I have seen people drill a hole at the junction before forging, never seen a punched hole there but it's certainly possible.

I just file the area a little so it looks nice. I don't mind seeing evidence of the hot cut.

It can be hammered free-handed with no aids all the way into the crotch of the split. The trick is to approach it from the diagonals not the flats.

Thanks for the replies. I will be doing more to keep the hammer control getting better and of course so I can make forks . I just got back from a blacksmith demo in CT and one of the smiths was doing forks welding the second tine on. And doing a fine job of it to. Consistent diameter and symmetry !

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Dick

Dick, I made a blunt nosed chisel out of an old RR spike. After I finish splitting the piece, I put it in my vise while it is hot and forge the crotch round. Touch up with a file.

If you spread both tine out at 180 degrees, you can upset the crotch of the tines and remove all traces of the split. It also upsets just behind where the tines join at the base and some people find that aestically pleasing.

ron

We got taught to punch a small hole before splitting. You could drill it too. It depends on whether you want a round or split look. Some people like either look.

Thanks for all the ideas, they all are worth trying just to experience the different process. I'll post results when I try them.

Dick

from wet soggy New England :)

Dick L, I took a few pics of forging the tines on the diagonal. I hope this helps explain it.

Brian, well done as always!

I usually split the tines, spread the tine to 180, and work the crotch on a wide fuller, then the base of the horn to get rid of the chisel scar. Also gives me a chance to work down the base end of the tines. I make lots of forks from RR spikes. I find that it takes practice to make forks consistently good!

good luck
Cliff

The trend in the above posts seems to be to slit the iron with a chisel, then spread the tines and work the crotch so as to not have a spot for a crack to eventually form. I was taught to drill a hole, slit and work the crotch or to file the crotch so that there was no chance for an unseen nick for a crack to form. Whichever works for you.

Dave E.

Unicorn forge, Myself, never thought of putting a hole at the base where the crotch is going to be. Will certainly be thinking of that the next time I make one.... Silly the things that other people have thought of, I never thought of... so stoooopid simple (in retrospect)... so easily missed... My wife cave me a poster to hang in my shop... KISS...

I think I am not the only one who gets "locked" into a method that I figure out, and only change when faced with something that is a great innovation, that I should have seen on my own.
Thanks
Cliff

At this years BAM conference Mark Aspery demonstrated the making of a chisel with one end of the cutting edge blunt and rounded so as to make a slit that begins with a rounded crotch. This method has a similar effect to punching or drilling before slitting but simplifies the process into a single step. Mark probably didn't realize that I was paying attention (:-) but I was watching very carefully. I have since made myself such a chisel and it does work just as he described. Most any slitting chisel could be very quickly and easily altered with a file or grinder to work this way.

I have done the punched hole many times and also the 180 spread and bent tines out of the way. I've found it much more effecient to let the metal yeild itself to your hammer. Notice after I split the material, I don't try and open it up. I reduce the stem first and then work the Y. This opens the Y up for me.
The first thing I'll look for when someone shows me any split is whether or not they forged the crotch and made it stronger.

Dick L, I took a few pics of forging the tines on the diagonal. I hope this helps explain it.

Great photos Brian. Guess I can't grasp written instructions well sometimes and your photo series are always a BIG help.

Beautiful work...as always.

Thanks again, Brian.

You're killin' me here...

so many things to try, so little time.

That is one fine looking fork.

Don

I have been known to dress that area with a chainsaw file if I wasn't happy with the way it was turning out---mainly for eating forks where you don't have much stock to play around with to start with.

I make lots of forks from RR spikes.

I would love to see how you do this CBrann do you think you could post some pictures or PM some to me? If not maybe a description. I have been trying to figure out some knew thing to do with RR Spikes instead of knives and figurines. Thanks.

RR spikes make good door knockers.

Frosty

I would love to see how you do this CBrann do you think you could post some pictures or PM some to me? If not maybe a description. I have been trying to figure out some knew thing to do with RR Spikes instead of knives and figurines. Thanks.

How about a pigtail steak flipper?

Got the idea from another local smith. He'd put a steer head on the top of his. I tried but broke off one of the horns while drawing out the shaft. Rather than try to weld on something to make a replacement horn I cut the other one off and drew the head out to about 1/4" square, put in a twist, and formed the loop.

Overall finished length is 20 1/2". Time involved...WAY too much. Will I do another one? Sure. Good exercise.

So that whole thing is a RR Spike thinned out??!! Wow I bet that took along time!!! I'm impessed! Will try sometime when the blisters on my hand heal from the last long smithing session! XD

Thank you all for the great input !
Brian the tutorial is very clear thank you!
Joan and I just got back from 4 days camping in Rocky Neck state park along the ocean on the CT. coast. The forks I've made so far got a real work out and held up fine. I made 3 like the one I posted and 3 twisted 304 SS tig rod 3/16" diameter. I forged out the tines and the handles on the stainless . I did cheat and tig the two rods together at the split and both ends of the handle. Now with the info I've received from you all I can refine my forged technique and have not only durable but pleasing to the eye as well. Like I said earlier I will post a photo of each technique when I do them, I really appreciate the input!

Dick