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Moving a power hammer


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I may "have" to move a 50# LG 1500 miles or so. I have no clue the best way to do it. I have an enclosed trailer large enough to get it in or an 18' open flat bed trailer. Lay it down or stand it up and use lots of straps? Does it need cribbing underneath? How fragile are they?

Thanks for any info!

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You lay it down - slowly.
I have a 50 LG and went to pick it up at LIttle Giant when it got rebuilt.
Take the motor and everything off if it has a guard/shield.
Lift with tractor or fork lift capable of raising 1800 pounds.
Use straps/heavy chains around the shaft. Lift and pull the bottom out as you slowly lay the hammer down on its side upon some old tired with no rims.
Re-position chains to each end and raise the hammer in its prone position - laying flat.
Make sure chains/straps are secure on lift so as not to drop the hammer.
It would NOT be pretty.
Just raise the hammer and back the truck/trailer under it.
Lower the hammer onto a stack of old tires in the vehicle.
I would like to see Little Giant do a tutorial on their site.

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Don't lift the hammer from the shaft. This puts the full load on the upper bearing caps and could possibly damage the shaft. I'm surprised Little Giant suggested that ,if that was the case.

Put a heavy nylon sling through the top part of the C-frame of the hammer, making sure no linkages or other parts are in danger of getting crushed or bent. Apply the lifting load slowly ,watching that nothing is in the way. The hammer should hang level and in balance from this point.

I've shipped 3 hammers from 25 to 200 # cross country and had to lift each one of them into place with a boom truck . The hammers were shipped upright through bolted to heavy pallets [ emphasis on ''heavy'' ] and cinched down to the truck with chains wrapped around the sow block. Having the hammer upright on a pallet gives the option of loading or unloading it with a forklift and with some forethought puts it at the right height to slide it off onto the riser block in your new shop.

Anyway that's my experience with moving hammers. Even the small ones are heavy, get or hire an extra hand to help guide the load when you are lifting it. Don't forget to make a tracing of the footprint with bolt hole locations while you have it off it's foundation.

Good luck!

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A lot is going to depend on what you have to load and unload it. We used a front end loader to load mine which worked just fine, a fork lift would be even better. When I unloaded it on the other hand I used a cable come along attached to the middle arch in my shop and stood it up off the tail of the trailer.

I cribbed it to keep the treadle off the deck as it was the most fragile part. The motor is on top of course.

It didn't take a lot of strapping to tie it down, even on our rough roads but I didn't push the speed at all. Still, it moved a little so I'd put a couple more straps on it were I to move it farther.

The legal standard is enough straps, chains, etc. to keep it on the deck if you turned it upside down and suspended it in the air.

All in all it was a pretty easy move, even offloading and setting it up was pretty easy. Just take your time and mind your rigging, you do NOT want it falling on your toe.

Frosty

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15548.attach

15549.attach

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I purchased a 50# Moloch. Luckily, the seller was willing to deliver. He lifted it and bolted two 2X12 to the base. He hoisted it onto a flatbet trailer in a standing position. He bolted the wooden base to the trailer along with straps and chains to secure it in transport. This seemed to work well.
Jerry

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ie moved a couple of hammers includeing a 50 lbr .... they can go in the back of a truck if its a 3/4 ton or better ... i did haul a 50 in a half ton but dont reccomend it was kind of a harry ride... if your careful you can even slide it off te bed by hooking a chain to the hammerand something solid and moveing truck out from under ittakes coordinaton and a comelong hooked to hammer and front of truck bed as a safety but ive done it ... also for short moves you can lay it partially in the bed useing same comealong method .. hard to get itpositionedthat way but it was all i had and it worked... ide use the flatbed trailer to move it tho ... a lot nicer to haul that way ...good luck

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Dude, where you headed!??! 1500 miles from where you live puts you just outside of the TEXAS boarders!:) This is not a permanent move for YOU is it? Good luck with the move and be CAREFUL!! Those things make a pretty big dent in whatever they fall on.

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Don't lift the hammer from the shaft. This puts the full load on the upper bearing caps and could possibly damage the shaft. I'm surprised Little Giant suggested that ,if that was the case.



You are absolutely correct - I'm an idiot!
I just forgot.
Loop under the C-frame.
Pull the bottom out and lay it down.
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Hi all,
i got forklift driver to lay my hammer over. I'd dis-assembled it cos it needs rebuild any way. Next built up a temporary 4 wheel dolly that allowed us to load the bare frame into a tandem axle horse float. Towed with 4.2L sedan nicely (taking it easy). For second half of trip wheeled it up ramp into my 1.2 ton van and drove it 100 miles up to Sydney.
Worked for me (cheap-skate d.i.y.er;) )!
Andrew OC
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ps was chocked up in transit of course.

Edited by AndrewOC
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Dude, where you headed!??! 1500 miles from where you live puts you just outside of the TEXAS boarders!:) This is not a permanent move for YOU is it? Good luck with the move and be CAREFUL!! Those things make a pretty big dent in whatever they fall on.



No, not moving. There's a 50 in the Pittsburg area and also possibly one in Florida. I'm just planning ahead.
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kbaknife mentioned the the most fool-proof approach....

I have moved numerous hammers (50# and larger) by just lowering them onto old tires in a pickup bed or on a small flatbed trailer. Use a strap (tightenable) to hold it down. The tires ensure that the frame doesn't take all the stress when you cinch the hammer down tight (also, if/when you hit that spot on the road that will cause a bounce, you won't break a casting or bend the little parts you didn't remove (which you should have). I always use two tire (one stacked on the other for the top of the hammer). If the base is square(ish), let it sit on the floor directly. Use a third tire to cushion the middle of the hammer. If the anvil can be removed, do it, and just put it on its own tire.

Strap appropriately.

Worked for me, first time, every time.

Good luck.

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