April 21, 200917 yr Looking for a good online (free) resource to read about hammer techniques such as stretching a piece of steel while reducing the width and so on. I can't seem to find anything. UTube.com actually has a few videos, but not much discussion. If anyone has any favorite sites, they would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
April 21, 200917 yr Favorite sites? Try IForgeIron.com The opening page, the forum and the gallery each has their own search engine that searches only that one section. Use all three. Log in to the home page as a registered member and look at the Blueprints section, particularly in the 1000 Hofi series, the lower BP numbers to start.
April 21, 200917 yr Author Have you tried the search button on this site? Yes, the result is 1,000 posts containing the words "technique" or "shaping". I bet if I tried it now, my post would be the top result. Thanks though.
April 21, 200917 yr Author Favorite sites? Try IForgeIron.com The opening page, the forum and the gallery each has their own search engine that searches only that one section. Use all three. Log in to the home page as a registered member and look at the Blueprints section, particularly in the 1000 Hofi series, the lower BP numbers to start. I've looked at the blue prints numerous times, but not the Hofi Series 1000, I'll give it a look. Thanks.
April 21, 200917 yr Author Info Index I've been through every inch of cashenblades.com, it's really a neat site. I realy like his steel selection page, with the square pegs and round holes! Thanks.
April 21, 200917 yr Author So far, no luck. I did find this book....The Modern Blacksmith - A. Weygers at the library just now, but a quick scan tells me I won't find the one particular operation that's got me stumped.
April 21, 200917 yr 'Drawing' is a technique whereby a smith reduce the cross-section of a piece of metal by stretching it in one or more other directions. That nugget alone (which could be found by actually reading a basic blacksmithing primer -- book, magazine or Internet article) should help you to find the information you are looking for. If you take a piece of clay (plastacine/modelling or otherwise) you can work it like a piece of hot metal, but without the heat, mess and heat times. Plastacine moves a lot easier too. You can not only practise your hammer technique any time but also learn about different techniques by doing.
April 21, 200917 yr Author I guess the problem I'm having, and I may not have illustrated it very well, is that I am not starting out with the elongated rectangle that is typical of every resource I have found thus far. I need to get to that shape. I have a 3" x 6" that's only 1/4" thick that I need to get to a 2" x 9" and retain the same thickness. A solution other bladesmiths might employ is simply folding the piece in half, welding it, and stretching it using a cross pein hammer. This is my second attempt however and I don't want to try any welding.
April 21, 200917 yr Place a few hammer blows on edge, then a few in the face to flatten the lumps you just made on the face, then repeat. It will take a while but this will get you there. I have had to do the same when making damascus billets.
April 21, 200917 yr Author Yeah, that's is what I was planning on doing, and also leaving the opposite edge hanging off the anvil like so. Just didn't know if this was the "norm" as far as general reshaping goes. I'll post some pictures of the days events later this afternoon, Thanks Steve!
April 22, 200917 yr the flat of the anvil expandes in all directions most generaly if u want to stretch metal,useing the horn would be the best approach otherwise its going to be all in hammer control.
April 22, 200917 yr I don't think I understand the point of your post Hammernhand, it appears that you imply hammer control is not needed if one uses the horn ?
April 22, 200917 yr RossFL:I'm sorry,but at least a part of your problem is the all important PLANNING. Forging thin stock on edge is tough to begin with,and tougher for someone with the lack of skill(yet). That pretty photoshop diagram is NOT the real life.You WILL end up with some fishmouth,it's the nature of,basically,trying to upset the stock that is bound to cool off right where you least need it too. The task that you set yourself is not the best technical solution(nor is welding,but it's even a longer story).Therefore,it's certainly not a productive beginner exercise. All sorts of info is available on the net,however,your time would be better spent practicing basic forging,and,as a result,you'll gain an ability to judge the REASONABLENESS,as well as a DOABILITY,of a given forging task. I hope it doesn't sound harsh-it's not meant to,at all.Strictly information,and,without having to say it-from my experience only. The very best of luck,Jake.
April 22, 200917 yr it has not been mentioned, but getting the correct size stock is a lot easier, and will cost less than the fuel for all the forging required on this one.
April 23, 200917 yr Little trick i learned this weekend from my bladesmith teacher. When forging the point, like your picture dictates, don't do it over the edge. Do you have a step down from the face to the horn? If so, then place your piece of flat stock that is let's say 6" long when starting. Use like 60 degree blows to one side of the end of the piece of metal that is on the horn now. Flip it over and do the same. Keep doing this until you have a point. Pretty easy from there. I'll get pictures this weekend if my description was unclear.
April 23, 200917 yr Ross - This may help you understand how the metal moves :http://www.abana.org/downloads/controlled_hand_forging/CHF_18.pdf ABANA - is a good resourse more links: [ABANA] Controlled Hand Forging Good Luck - JK
April 24, 200917 yr Author Ross - This may help you understand how the metal moves :http://www.abana.org/downloads/controlled_hand_forging/CHF_18.pdf ABANA - is a good resourse more links: [ABANA] Controlled Hand Forging Good Luck - JK That almost exactly what I was looking for. I will definitely be going through this site before I fire up again.
April 24, 200917 yr Author it has not been mentioned, but getting the correct size stock is a lot easier, and will cost less than the fuel for all the forging required on this one. Agreed, that piece is now in the junk bin, too much work when I can just find something that's already dimensionally similar, at least for a beginner. The $20 shipping cost at Admiral just scared me off, I need to just find a local supplier.
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