Dave Hammer Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 (edited) Frosty.... How one part of the mechanism is fabricated may not be obvious. Hopefully, these two diagrams will help. The first diagram shows the linkage assemblies. The second diagram details the most complicated one. Diagram 1.... 1. Is the bar that goes from the treadle to the break lever. 2. Is the brake lever 3. Moves up and down with the treadle bar. It's anchored to the hammer frame on the right. 4. Is a short piece of linkage connected to 3. 5. Is the linkage detailed in the second diagram. Think of it as a bicycle petal hub assembly without petals. 6. is a fixture that fits over the left side of the bicycle hub that the brake band connects to. Diagram 2 Weld a short length of 3/4 inch iron pipe (item 4) onto a bar (item 5) that will be bolted to the hammer frame. A length 3/4 solid round (item 2) is welded (from the outside end) into a short piece of linkage (item 1). Slip the solid round (item 2) into the pipe (item 4) from the left. Slip the other short piece of linkage (item 3) onto the 3/4 round and weld the linkage to the round bar (item 2) from the end. You should drill a hole in the pipe for a grease zerk before you weld this assembly together. Hopefully, this makes the linkage clear. Good luck.... Edited April 26, 2009 by djhammerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 26, 2009 Author Share Posted April 26, 2009 Thank you, that makes it a lot clearer. It's about what I expected but having the details of a working unit at hand will really speed the build. Funny how my Little Giant folder is growing. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 (edited) Frosty Your Welcome... I meant to include the picture below also. I don't recall if you posted a picture of your dies. When I bought that hammer, it didn't have dies. I made this set. There is a lot of discussion about whether or not combination dies should be used on small hammers. Some feel like it's distructive to use one side of the dies or the other. I think they think it puts severe side pressure on the ram and guide. I respectfully disagree, unless of course you are whaling away on cold metal (and if you are, side pressure is the least of your worries). You can use flat dies and make a saddle and have an attachment for drawing, but...... I like to be able to draw and use the flat part of combo dies in the same heat. I know I could have made an attachment which is a combo, but since it would be on the hammer MOST of the time, I chose not to. You can still put a saddle over combo dies for other operations. The drawing side of the dies I made are very aggressive. They worked extremely well for me, but I would recommend (now) that the ones you make, or buy, have a flat spot in the middle (maybe 3/4 to one inch wide).... and a strong relief up to that flat spot. I love old mechanical power hammers. Good luck with yours. When you make your hand held tooling, be sure to make the handles light enough so very little shock is transmitted to your hand/arm. Edited April 26, 2009 by djhammerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 (edited) I don't remember what drove me to the mechanism I used (could have been space or distances), but there may be a simplier way to do it. This mechanism (diagram), or just a routed cable to the right side of the linkage that is connected to the treadle bar should do it too. You might have to use more springs somewhere to get the pressure on the brake you want. Edited April 26, 2009 by djhammerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 Those are aggressive drawing dies. I'm not sure just what I'll do with my dies, flat dies but will use a saddle for now. That is a simpler system for the brake. One scheme I was thinking about was making it an undershot band so the treadle linkage would work it properly without a pivot arm. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGropp Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Make the brake band go over the top of the flywheel [ covering a bit more than half the circumference ] If the brake is underneath it tends to get contaminated with oil. The linkage is pretty easy to figure out. Put a coil spring [ with adjustment ] on both sides of the frame to lift the treadle, it will make for smoother action of the clutch and brake and give more consistent control and feel no matter at which angle you are working the hammer from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 That makes sense, over the top it is and I'll install however much spring works the best. I love it when someone else figures out why my ideas don't work before I even have them. Thanks. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 combo dies are kind of a personal choice I guess, I've heard so many people say they don't like em, yet I see them on many hammers, Clifton Ralph made some, used them a bit and set them aside, as I recall from his video. I think if you have really big dies, it makes sense, but as for my tire hammer, and the smaller dies, it just does not work that well. Again I say tooling, yeah that's the ticket, tooling. Amazing what you can do with a big bearing ball welded on a plate. Oops, I hear big Red calling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNeilson Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Hi Frosty, heres a couple pics of brakes on my powerhammers. They work excellent, and almost a bit too good as they like to be oiled along with everything else. If you go to a full circular band, Id just make sure the band is trailing as opposed to leading when you make it. On the Little Giant I made it leading at first and it would stop solid (self tighten)at the least bit of use. Learned my lesson there......hope this helps.......:)Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 Thanks Kerry, every little bit helps and that makes a lot of sense it isn't like we're trying to stop a truck. Trailing band it is. What is the red hammer and how do you like the nylon webbing link? I've never seen one like it but it makes sense too. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Frosty, if you'd been paying attention over on MAF I asked Kerry that about a month ago! Those are good brake designs, it's what most everyone around here uses. Speaking of oiling lots of points IIRC the hole that looks like a lathe live center hole in the back of the main shaft on LG's is also a lube point for some part up in the cone clutch. Anyone else able to confirm that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNeilson Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) Hi Frosty, it is an "Iron Store Giant" with early 50# LG ram and bow/strap. Seen on LG website as "early 50#". Basically a mix of old parts that still works OK. No spring makes for a "slappier" blow and not quite as versatile. But it does the job..........KerrySpeaking of oiling lots of points IIRC the hole that looks like a lathe live center hole in the back of the main shaft on LG's is also a lube point for some part up in the cone clutch. Anyone else able to confirm that? Your right Judson,Mine has a screw grease cup to lubricate the clutch brng....K Edited April 28, 2009 by KNeilson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 You're right Judson, I haven't been paying much attention to MAF. My connection's been dog slow the last month or so and for some reason MAF almost won't load. Speed tests show me maxing out at 6-7mbps but in the real world I wasn't getting 1kbps from MAF. The LG lube guide I downloaded and printed out says it's for the "Clutch Pully" (grease zerk on end of shaft) Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Nice toy Frosty, have fun ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 Thanks Mike. Will do. Oh, and it's not a toy, it's a . . . toyl. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 (edited) Yeah I think I know what you mean... Wish for you this time will be looooonnnnnng If I don't, remember I'm French :p Edited April 29, 2009 by Madmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 I remember even if your location wasn't part of your header. Heck, I won't even kid you about that being why you're Mad-Mike. Thanks, I'm sure I'll get many years of use and enjoyment from it. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Of course we will expect a jump in your production, which surely will mean more PICTURES!!!! eh??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 Oh but of course. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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