billp Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I was wondering has anyone ever try using rebar to make tongs? I have several sizes of rebar rods and need a couple of sets of tongs. Can it be done and if so is it worth it? I know grinding or beating the ribs off is a job in itself but is the rebar a good material for tongs? After getting several different drawings and instructions on making tongs I thought about trying to make my own. Plus I found a way to make my own charcoal as I have a lot of wood scraps from my wood shop and a small metal barrel why not, anything to save money. Again any input will be more then welcome. Bill P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Yes it's more work but rebar works fine for tongs. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Rebar is the "junk metal" for blacksmiths as bed frames is for weldors. If you have it try it out. I make cooking tripods for camping from #4 and #5 bar in various heights. I don't quench. I also use rebar for quick punches and tools if I luck out and find a piece that doesn't crack when quenched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) OK I'll give it a shot, I just picked some flat 1" x 3/16" to see what I can do with that for tongs. Thanks guys Oh! has anyone ever tried to make charcoal using a barrel? If so I got a few questions on that as well. 1# just how long does it keep smoking when you put a loose fitting lid on with only 1, 1" air hole open at the bottom? BP Edited March 18, 2009 by billp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 I make charcoal in 55 gal barrels I have 4 2" holes in the sides I fill the barrel with 2X4 letting about 12" stick out I light the barrels at the bottom holes and let burn uncovered for at least an hour to 1 1/2 hour depending on the wind strenght ONce all or at least most of the wood is burned all the way through so when you grab it with tongs it breaks I plug the holes with metal plugs and cover the barrel with a steel lid. Some of my barrels have remove able lids I seal and one has just a piece of steel that I put over the top and put a cement block on to make air tite. You need the fire to stop burning so it goes out and becomes charcoal and not ash. sometimes I pour water on the top and sides of the barrel to cool the barrel to put out the fire faster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 I'm using a 32 or 35 gal barrel with 3 1" holes at the bottom. I put a larger metal plate that can close the bottom holes as needed. I half filled it with 2 x 4 pieces (I kept all my scrap wood from my wood shop in dog food bags for camping fire wood till I found out about making charcoal) lit a fire but only let it burn for 10 or 15 minutes then put a metal plate on top of the barrel. I had a lot of smoke that kept coming for over 4 or 5 hours. So I'm not to sure if what I'm doing is right or not. I'm kind of use to trial and error in working things out so we will see. But what you have told me will help for the next batch no matter how this one turns out. thanks BP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 billp,welcome to Iforgeiron! Funny you should mention charcoal,.......I have a batch cooking as I type.........in a 20 gal. washing machine tub. It has a 1 in. hole in the bottom....where the agitator used to be........and I cover it with a barrel lid. I just light mine and wait till it's burning pretty good, put the lid on and place a little dirt around the bottom of the tub to seal that 1 in. hole. For a couple hours after lighting, there's a lot of smoke.......thick sour smelling smoke. I weight the lid down so the wind can't blow it off. I'll check it in the morning. If the barrel/tub still feels hot, I'll wait a while longer before opening. Opening the lid while the fire is still smoldering will allow it to quickly start burning again.......wasting much of the charcoal. I have opened the lid too early and had to pour water on it to put it out. I prefer not to do that if possible, since it takes the damp charcoal a while to dry out. Hope you get a good bunch of charcoal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Nakkela Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Pault17, Why is rebar "junk"? Rebar comes in different grades and is used in various structures to reinforce concrete. The reinforcing steel must meet engineering standards for bridges, tall buildings, dams etc. I believe that the steel is traceable as to the mill and batch from which it came. The idea that rebar is made from just anything may apply to sidewalk steel but not structural reinforcing. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 I just started to work on making my own charcoal too. I have a 55 gallon drum with about 20 or so 1/2 inch holes drilled through the bottom. I cut up pallets and any scrtap lumber I pick up from various construction sites and get it burning. I typically fill the barrel to a few inches above the top and light it from the bottom. When the flames drop down to the rim top I put the lid on and let it smoke. I have a two inch hole cut in the top, and when the smoke loses its yellow color, I cap it with a lump of dirt. When it is done and the barrel is cool, I dump it into a wheelbarrow and sort out the coal from the ash from the unburnt or charred wood. The wood goes back into the burn barrel, the ash gets mixed with dirt and the coals go into a second, sealable drum. My first try ended up with half a barrel of charcoal when I lifted the lid. There was no smoke and very little heat. I went in to have breakfast and when I came back out the coals were gone with nothing but a pile of smoking ash:o. I managed to salvage a coffee can's worth of coals. but it was a start. Now all I have to do is make a forge to use with charcoal:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Warren can tell us how when you pick up a piece of scrap re-bar to tell if it's rated for a bridge, building or nuclear containment vessel or is junk rebar for sidewalks? Also the some grades of re-bar will be fairly low in carbon to allow for welding without worrying about HAZ cracking others will be higher for strength reasons and specify that joinings are tied and not welded, again how do you tell? Around these parts a lot of crude ironwork is done using re-bar and coming up from Mexico. Save for tent stakes I want to differentiate my work from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Nakkela Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Thomas, I agree. I also laugh at farmer repair jobs using steel fence posts, old rebar and used all thread welded on machinery. I just wanted to raise the point that structural steel must meet certain standards. No, I don't think that I can tell the difference although some of this stuff may be red short. I avoid using reinforcing steel. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TASMITH Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 I have to agree with Thomas on this one for sure. Unless you Know specifically what the re-bar is for you are taking your chances. I have worked with some that was a soft as any mild steel you could find , and ohter stuff that would only bend when heated and was harder than H*** when it cooled and just snapped! Stick with steel you know what it is and you will be a lot further ahead of the game. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billp Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 Wow Didn't think It would get into all this when I started the question but it does give me answers. Being new I'm just not to sure with what is what so I ask. I have noticed that on some rebar I have cleaned up some have letters and or numbers on them maybe this can identify strength but then again maybe just the maker. But then again the maker can also indicate how good or bad the steel is. Anyway it something I use when I don't worry about what I'm using it for. Making holders for tools, racks, I even used 1" stock for legs but for tools themselves I need to count on, that's when I raised the question. I really thank you all for the input on rebar as well as charcoal. By the way my first batch ended up being no more then 3 or 4 handfuls of charcoal that was still slightly burning when I took it out. I doused it as little as needed with water and set it out to dry, then started my next batch. This one acted different then the first and I think may work out better but then again we'll see. Thanks again guys I'm glad to have someone to go to for this stuff. Bill P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 On my batch of charcoal, I wound up with a 5 gal. bucket of good charcoal, a little ash, and enough half-charred wood to have a good start on the next batch. There's still a lot of 'trial and error' involved in my charcoal making. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 Jayco, I am having the same sort of luck. I have gone through 7 pallets of mixe material (pine, oak, poplar) and have half of a 55 gallon drum full up useable (i think) charcoal. The un-burnt or charred stuff goes back in for the next burn. I have a full barrel charring as I type now. as for metal for forging, if you are dirt poor and have nothing but what you can scrounge, then you learn to work with that and feel spoiled when you get hold of some good metal. I get bugged when everybody says don't bang iron until you have a "real" anvil. Don't hammer untill you have a tom clark or hofi hammer. Etc. etc. etc. work with what you have until you can get something better. Always check out the local Smithing clubs and associations. Fellow smiths are almost always helpful and interested in speading the wealth of knowlege. I have found that hooking up with and bringing gifts to a welding class instructor can get you access to scrap bins and "unusable" metal for welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 Pault17, one reason I get haphazard results from charcoal making is that I'm fresh out of good, air tight barrels. I have half a dozen, and they all leak a little air......sometimes allowing the charcoal to burn up. There's a guy at the local flea market selling good barrels with lids and rings for $15 each.......might have to check him out soon. The only trouble with buying the barrels is that they rust out rather quickly........at least after a few burns, anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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