Spears

I built a David Robertson air hammer and I posted my build photos on Metal Artists Forum only because this site had a Kinyon style hammer build document already. He sells that design from his website Artistblacksmith.com If you click back through the archives on this site you will find numerous pictures of tire hammers which don't need a compressor. You will probably need to decide what type of machine will best suit your needs. Just click through and watch some of those videos. That really helped me in my decision for choosing one. Good luck! Sincerely, Spears.

This simple stand works well for my home/shop made anvil. Anvil = 130 lbs. Stand is 1/4" plate with 1/4" wall pipe in middle with 2x4's for pad on bottom to preserve cement floor.

This has been interesting reading all these posts. I always look at used equipment with the 1/2 rule. I would like you folks to comment on this philosophy. I always feel like "used is used". I take the brand new price of the current or equivalent item and cut it in half and go up or down from there based on wear and tear. This excludes vintage-antique things. I try not to be judgmental of peoples assumptions of what what their used stuff is worth, but it is rather difficult. I ended up building my own power hammer because anything I found used (even ten yrs of use) the owner wanted only $1000-$1500 down from brand new. Even though some of this stuff holds up over the years, it's hard to justify 75% of brand new for something that's been beat all to hell. I really do value all the input because skepticism lies in both buyers and sellers. Sorry if I went off topic too much here. Sincerely, Spears.

I use a beeswax/turpentine mix. After the mixture solidifies, the result is a soft paste that I store in a semi-air tight container. This mix lasts a long time but will eventually harden up like the original beeswax with the evaporation of some of the turpentine. I heat the part with a torch or hold it in front of my forge and make it hot to the touch but not changing color. I use a rag for the "easy to get to" large surface areas and a small brush for the nooks and cracks. I bought a box of those little metal throw away brushes from Harbor fright and they work fine. I've been well complimented by many on the looks of this finish, but it won't quite hold up to outdoor weathering as well as some others. Hope this helps with your endeavors. Regards, Spears.

I did a metal sculpture for the yard of a giant icosahedron. Twenty triangles welded together make a geometric figure close to looking like a mace. These triangles were 12" big and this ended up being 26" point to point. I couldn't tell anyone how to blacksmith one of these but if you pick up a 20 sided dice for Dungeons and Dragons you would have a small model of this. Just maybe food for thought. Spears.

That's too funny. LOL! I clicked on your post (without even reading the title)expecting to see some cool looking long blade or something. Instead I see some new idea for a multi-purpose anvil swage block along with a bit of poetry. I guess today I'm on the bonus plan! Keep on hammerin'. Peace! Spears.

I use a piece of commercial duct piping with one end capped off to hold 7 gallons of crank case oil. Ive quenched numerous power hammer dies in which the die welded to the mounting plate weighs 6lbs. The walls of this are .035" stainless steel and I do bump them when I agitate during quench. The amount of fire I get upon insertion is very little considering it is a 6lb chunk of cherry red steel. Key is, get it down in and stir rapidly without bringing it to the top. Yes it generates a bit of oil smoke and I make sure and open a 10'x10' door at each end of my shop. I probably wouldn't go any thinner than this 20 gage sheet if possible. By the second die quenched the oil is hot but the outside of the container can be held bare handed. If I did more than two at once, I would prefer to have more oil than 7 gallons. Hope this helped with some ideas. Spears.

This topic is so nervy it is deserving of a good story. I bought a gas forge and a couple of hammers because I always wanted to do blacksmithing. I had constructed an anvil and some tongs when I worked as a shop teacher by the way of machining and Mig welding. Up to that point, any forging had been done using an Oxy-ace torch for heat. I joined a forge group, attended meetings, and watched many demonstrations including Dan Boone in Novi Michigan. I fabricated an art piece after forging for about 3 months. Yes, only 3 months. I used everything I had available including my Mig welder and power sanders and grinders. I entered the piece in an art exhibit, not a blacksmith competition, and took first prize in sculpture. I was proud of myself and every blacksmith in the world with any heart at all should have been also. In writing I gave the forge group credit for the inspiration. It was later I observed some negativity in their publication and was very confident it was directed toward me from maybe more than one member. How terrible. Was it that they felt threatened? How could those elite blacksmiths so great with all there genius knowledge placing them so high and mighty above all that only through them could I achieve anything be threatened? First of all, nobody likes cocky old timers. When I was a young machinist I also ran into a few old timer jack asses. My only concern was the promotion of Blacksmithing. Maybe their so advanced that they forgot the simple philosophy that you attract more flies with honey than vinegar. I don't need to start fights or point fingers. It is completely obvious that some people of this beautiful craft don't promote it, but rather destroy it. Due to the fact it was needed for them to put it in writing, I can tell you what I didn't put in writing and that was my next membership check. I'm a metal artist and I do like forging. It's ok that a few members of the Blacksmithing communities don't think much of me or my art because the word traditional has different interpretations. That in itself has benefits. The more they tear me down, the more my ratings go up! Take care, and God Bless! Spears.

It is kind of difficult to stop rust without going to spray paints, clear coats, epoxy, etc. I use a bees wax/turpentine mix for indoor only. That would be for finger print rust and indoor humidity change corrosion. The turpentine makes the wax mix a soft paste easier to apply and may get into pores a bit deeper but either way the wax can loose integrity over time and bad weather. If the wax smokes during application, my guess would be it is a bit hot. I think the folks using the linseed oil mix have a better idea for corrosion because I do a lot of outdoor rusty/weathered steel sculptures for the yard and after the steel is good and orange and rusted, my wife rubs pure linseed oil on them and the corrosion literally goes down next to nothing. However, after a thick application of the linseed oil once every year or so, the sculptures are smooth and brown instead of bright orange. To keep that beautiful gray/black iron look outdoors, you may need to go clear coat or keep that linseed oil/wax application periodic less lengthy intervals. Good luck. Spears.

I had very little luck here in north Alabama when searching for large round or square solids. Down near Birmingham places do have available large solid bars, but they are "for sale" not "on sale". I was rather opposed to having to "stack up" material for my anvil block, but then the local steel fab company here in town treated me very fairly after I told the man what I was trying to do. He had some 2" X 13" solid bar lying around and charged me a reasonable "cut charge" to saw the blanks. This method works extremely well and I now own an air hammer with a 700lb anvil block on a 440lb base plate. On the contrary, it took a tremendous amount of "by myself" labor that I wouldn't wish upon anyone. IMO if you spend the money and buy the post exactly what you need I think a hammer ends up with more of a "store bought" look. If that's anything you care about. Good luck. Spears

I was meaning to someday make a tap handle and the one that was on there finally broke so it was time. This was a chunk of 1.25" diameter low carbon steel ~3.5" long. At one time tried to make something from this piece by hand and discovered I couldn't do much to 1.25" bar with my hammer and anvil. The power hammer I constructed made it possible to turn this ugly chunk into this nice looking leaf. Yes, it is covered with hammer marks and my wife loves it. The leaf at the base actually looks like a hammer. Hit the tap too much and one could get bit hammered!! Spears.

Hello lamepro, Working with flat plate is a painful trick compared to rod and bar stock. Adding to what Dodge said, position on the anvil right under the hammer blow. I shape 1/4" plate across this 6" ball to make these candle wave dishes out of these triangle scrap pieces. It's going a lot better than it first did and I find the less jouncy strikes straight out from the tongs and a bit less than to the side. Moving the hammer blow further from the anvil contact point yields more curve but produces one hell of a lot more bounce. Keep the metal red hot and softer, and the anvil close under your hammer blows, and squeeze like crazy with the tongs, and last but not least, move the feet real fast when it comes loose.

Hello everyone, I haven't had the time and resources to do any art shows, but with my hobby I have entered some of my fine art in exhibitions and now and again I will win an award or get a small amount of money for placing in the top 3. Never the less a portion of the traffic will be the general public and not understanding of the value of certain hand made items of heir loom quality. In defense of your prices (even if perceived value is set sky high for instance) I always go back to the resources required because tools aren't cheap. You don't get much from the blacksmith supply store for even say $50. Adding up the cost of the forge, welders, grinders, hammers, propane etc. I consider myself rather wealthy and prosperous to even have such a hobby. I do mostly fine art "not for sale" and some comments people make about value could almost cause emotional damage. For instance this table was perceived by a member of the general public as something worth $200. Hand made from 3/4" square and 3/4" round stock, split, forged, twisted, MIG welded, ground, wire wheel brushed, clear coated, throw on a glass top. Hell, I would buy a second one of these if I could get it for just $200. Any takers? Work shops full of tools aren't cheap and it took a good portion of my lifetime to build/acquire them along with the knowledge to use them. Starting this stuff young is a good idea because all of it takes some time. Sincerely, Spears.

That's alright Dave. Sometimes the work is slow and the waste materials are extreme. We throw away quite a lot of useful stuff around hear. I try to help my fellow metal workers when I can. It took me 10+ years to move to a place and build a work shop and I didn't get a whole lot of help. I can't always get the stuff for free, but even at the scrap price some of our materials are a decent value. Just drop me a message if you come up dry on any certain materials. I may or may not be able to help. It just depends on what the factory has going on at the time. Regards, Spears.

Beautifully written, I don't make blades but I used to work in tool and die. Thanks for posting.

Hello Dave, I’m here in Huntsville Alabama which may be out of your way but in either case I have a summary of my dumpster diving options. I guess you’re looking for a 12”x12” square 5ft long closed on one end with a 10” or 12” hole next to the closed end with a 30 degree angle cut opposite side the hole is on. The 30 degree angle will bring the bottom lip back just under 7” calculated. I can get my hands on: .025 thick aluminized (that stuff is a bit thicker than the thin stuff you buy from Home Depot but may not last through the years and takes spot welding or screws for fabrication). .035 thick stainless. (cost more and harder to fabricate but will outlast most all) .075 thick galvanized (easy to fabricate extremely durable and cheaper) This stuff welds solid but ugly and the first time you get it real hot or weld on it you need ventilation) I built my tumbler out of that stuff and that is probably the best bet. If you decide to make the trip I need to know if you can cut the hole and weld the individual pieces or if you want it completed. The stainless is scrap I have to pay for and having that made would be $40. The thicker .075 galvanized $30. That’s about as good as I can do because I have to pay for certain labor and equipment and some materials I don’t have in my personal workshop. I hope this gives you some economical options and have fun in Georgia. I’ve been to Dahlonega twice and I really enjoy it. Regards, Spears.

Hello Dave, The exterior exhaust pipe itself will be better constructed from the light weight galvanized stuff available from the common stores. The hood you decide on which may take some fire exposure on and off, I could help with some stainless sheet .035 thick (about 1/32"). I used that on an outdoor wood burner exhaust and as hot as I got it, it only changed color a bit. I can cut and fold that to be economical as far as a hood. Piping made out of that stuff gets heavy and expensive. You're about 3hrs north of me if you run into a road block in getting a hood you need and decide you could drive my way cheaper. As far as you're tire hammer, I have on hand some 1/4" plate steel. I have a range of circles from 8" to 20" diameter. I have rectangles in the range of 8" to 15" at 60" long. Shipping anything these days could be hell compared to driving even with the price of gas. All I would ask is you trade me some of that soap and lip balm stuff you folks make (my wife likes all that) if traveling turns out to be your cheaper option. I'm just south of Huntsville. I'm stocked pretty well on 1/4" iron plate right now. Regards, Spears.

Hello Dave, Post a sketch with some dimensions of what you're looking for as far as a hood. I don't use charcoal but I have seen some pictures. It seems like these things are hard for people to find. I work for a company that makes commercial insulated ducting. Stainless steel inner wall and galvanized outer. I'm the one who programs the laser to cut the hard to make shapes in the flat position before it gets rolled or folded. Just the negative shape cut-outs generate enough scrap to sink a battle ship. Amazingly, some rather large size pieces. Scrap stainless .035 thick is what I can buy for 70 cents a lb. Even if a hood weighed 20lbs that's still only $14 material cost. I would like to see if I could fold one of these out of one piece. If I can't, I'll make it in sections with tabs and spot weld it together. There is a guy in Alabama who makes and sells hoods, but much like any black smithing equipment, it's "for sale" not "on sale". No, I'm not looking for money, if you look on this website you'll find out I gave away a treadle hammer. I just genuinely support my fellow blacksmiths and I truly like a challenge. Pictures or sketches with dimensions please..... Spears.

I never touched a power hammer and was going to buy one but then a financial constriction set in and I ended up building one. I just got done with my David Robertson power hammer and I'm finishing up heat treating some different dies for it. I tried a piece of 1/2" round and a piece of 1/4" X 2" flat bar under the flat dies and I think I'm really going to like this. I'm able to get one stroke or full auto with ease and it whips that ram up and down like you're watching a cartoon. I just finished the third dies last night and I can't wait to use it some more. It may be smaller than some of the other stuff that's out there but by the looks of it my artwork will be greatly expanded. Spears.

This is a fireplace set I made when I first started forging. I thinned out a piece of 1/4" plate and curved it around to capture the stem of a broom I bought at an art show. It isn't the right kind of broom for use, but looks "ok" for ornamental. It was MIG welded to a 3/8" square handle and then cold pounded down onto the broom in the end. Hopefully you can make out this picture because with more experience this would make a nice looking connection. Good luck. Spears.

I chose to go with Bronze alloy 932. From McMaster Carr a piece can be purchased for ~$150.00. The 1/2" thick 8"x12" will come in about .10" oversized with plenty there to machine down thickness and put in peg supports. Band sawed into 4 pcs 2.875 wide. Supporting inside the sleeve with two 1/2" bolts central with a 1/4" bolt on every corner for support. Back plate bolted solid. I'm building a David Robertson air hammer. Up to this point it seems very sturdy and slides good with thin film of oil. Plastic is probably a bit slicker. Bronze was my personal preference for this contraption. You asked for pictures, but I make no claim this is anything superior to what the professionals have already mentioned. Yeah I know it isn't a mechanical hammer, my bad. Spears.

There is nothing to criticize there, unless someone doesn't really like metal work. Then you're on the wrong forum. :)

If the hardened strip along the edge is made of the same material ("carbon steel" just hardened), you could try heating it up cherry red with a torch to anneal that portion and then proceed to try cutting. That is if you have access to a torch. Spears.

That's a nice working machine. After seeing that I can't wait to get my power hammer finished. I like how the cat gets up and exits the room across the bench in the background. Thank you for the nice video.

Does anyone have any input on the anvils offered by NC Tool Co. It seems like they may be made specifically for farriers. At 70-110lbs, that may be a bit on the light side. The horse shoeing demo I saw looked like those gentleman could wear out an anvil so one would think the product would be made to hold up. Thanks for your replies. Spears.