JamesG

wow that a great looking pattern in the blade.

Forged this one out of a file . Edge Quenched. in warm canola oil Blade-File Handle-Elk tin bolster and collar- Plummer solder Sorry i was half a sleep when I posted it .

Thank you all for the nice words. There is a double quench like on the blade.

Forged from a file , Edge quanched in warm canola oil. Handle deer crown. black spacer Brass guard.

THose look great but the top is my fav. Nice work.

Mine is simple a railroad tie on the end that been lag botled there 2/6 wood and the some old mortar, the piece that hold the vise and home made. and i have a piece of angle iron with a piece of treated decking to support the leg.

Did you buy your leaf spring from a spring shop that knows what the steel it. It could be 6150.

Very nice and the pattern looks great.Nice work.

Nice work John the feather pattern knife looks great.

Looks great, I seen olive wood used but not the root, I like it alot. Nice work

Thank you all

Finished up my Grandfather knife and stamped case, I put an edge on the blade waxed the case and the blade.

They look great and nice work on the hamon.

They look great and nice work on the hamon.

Very nice work,The wood and and the pattern go great togeither.

Oval guard with a coffein handle . Nice work.

Thank you Metalamgeler, I have seen picture of caping knives.

Metal99, I buffed the steel and put a coat of gun stock wax on the guard., Robakyo i am also woundering also how to make it better. I am open to suggestions. And I understand everyone was showed a diffrent way to skin a deer.

Very nice, that pattern and the wood go great togeither

Thank I just finished sewing the leather case for it.

My Grandfather order a Skinning knife for his preacher this is what I come up with> I edge quanched the blade, While I was soaking the blade in vinger to get the oil off, I notied I had a temper line. metal-Leaf spring 6150 guard- Mild steel Handle- Red and Black spacer Whitetail antler. Pin,Mild steel

I would make a sideblase forge somthing like the japanes.Use firebrick and fire motor for your comple rows and on the back goes as high as you would think, the rest loose stake for you can move the bricks around to fit your work. I have a bottom blast forge and I burn charcoal, When I forge weld in it I can go about 2 hours before I need to clean the air grate out . I am useing a cast iron showe drain. Good luck on your forge.

Well I finaly bought me a chapion forge blower.It elecric and the motor and pully come with it. The blower trurns fine and true no noise when I turned it by hand. And there no wobble in the shaft. It just dirty and needs a paint job My forge is charcoal and wood. so it be pleanty of air. If i soaked the whole the in diesle would that ruin anything. And do i need to take of the top of the blocks to clean of the old crud? I do not want to tak the whole blow apart since it turn and does not rubb. Suggestion please.

Thank you Phil, for the idea. I should have thought of that ,And gents all I asked is which one would be better to hold a piece of round bar stock of 1 1/4 . either 1 1/4 in or 1 1/2 inch chain makeing tongs.

I have some 1 1/4 in round bar , I need to order some tongs for it, The set I am looking at are some Off center chain maker . Should I get the 1 1/4 in size or the 1 1/2 inch pair? Thoughts please.