K. Bryan Morgan

Philip and Bentiron thanks for the responce and the input. I am very happy with the new anvil. Unfortuanately the weather isn't cooperating. Still too cold to do anything yet. I am hoping for a break in the tempratures later this week. I have a very good stump ready to go. Some ideas for a tool rack for it. I'm going to use angle iron and lag bolts to lag it to the stump securely. I just need a nice big piece of chain to keep it quiet and will get that today. Bentiron, I plan on doing just that. Use files and sand/emery papers to get the radii that I want. Take it slow and don't over do things. If it takes alittle while to get done, thats just fine by me. I know there are alot of working smiths who would do things differently. I am a hobbiest. So if it takes a while, it takes a while and no harm done.

Here's an idea from the American Blacksmith and Motor Shop magazine from 1919. Pretty innovative if you ask me. The plan and description are on page 24. I love google books http://books.google.com/books?id=1rrmAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA24&lpg=PA24&dq=Homemade+blacksmithing+post+vise&source=bl&ots=EVR76Ez5Az&sig=C7tcgwyeY2kaheOZ5XxQvcWMGK8&hl=en&ei=XyuMS9mfEY6isgPpmZWGAw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CCcQ6AEwCTgK#v=onepage&q=&f=true

The owner of the company sent me an e-mail describing how he radiused his personal Rhino anvils. So much here and so much there. He also stated the reason they don't come pre-radiused is because that is a personal preference that most smiths would like to do themselves. That made sense to me. I'm thankful for all the help. I guess I will get it on the stump as soon as the weather warms up some. -15f here today and just to cold to go out to the shop and work on anything. So, I am gonna sit by the fire with my girlfriend and drink schnapps. Ok so she's working, I'll just sit by the fire and drink bourbon. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the tip Brian, I was trying to figure out a good way to do that. Would 100 grit be ok or would I need something rougher. Sam, I know. And right now I'm not even worried about the radii. Its more about the technique. I may just use sandpaper and buff it like a par of shoes for all of them. I faced a hammer that way and it turned out real nice. One of those cheap Mexican Tupper's. It was the first smithing hammer I bought. 3 pounder. Did the peen that way to now that I think about it.

Youngdylan, I understand what your saying. Just so you know. I do this for fun. Not to make a living. Not yet at least. Almost every time I tell someone I blacksmith as a hobby they ask if I can make something for them and how much would it cost. I tell them, let be get better and I'll get back to you. So, you never know. It may just turn into a work environment. But in the mean time I'm gonna have fun with it. After saying that you may wonder why am I spending so much money on a brand new anvil. I believe in having good quality tools. I usually only buy them once or twice in a lifetime when I do that. That, and anvils are almost impossible to find in Alaska. People just don't let go of them. So, I just got back from the lumber yard and got the biggest stump I can pick up for the anvil. I placed it on it just to check it out and I think I got a good one. I may need to shim it level but that is about it. After I use it a while I will make improvements as I need them. Some of you guys do some really innovative things with stumps and stands.

First I would like to thank everyone for their opinons. Having experianced smiths being helpfull to some one who has less hammer time in is very heartenting, and I think a credit to the craft. Now as to what to do with the edges of my anvil. I can see what Jake is saying quite clearly. I understand the physics involved. There have been quite a few other who agree with him as well. I think that Don A has a good aproach as well. Take your time and get it right. That is a philosophy that has served me well over the years. I would also like to thank Brian Brazeal for the information about the hardy hole. I hadn't even thought about that. If my hardy tool has a radiused edge and I put it in the hardy it could spall out because it isnt sharp like the hole edge is. And you will get a better fit. I also imagine that most will have a filit that is either ground down, or not. In either case you have a tool that is rocking in the hole, not good, or you are damaging the hole, also not good. So I will be knocking off edges as time allowes and will take my time and do it right. I have some very good Nicholson files. I can do some draw filing on it and get some of those real sharp edges, and they are very very sharp, down to a 1/8th round. At least to begin with. I will be leaving some edges sharp. But in places I won't be using heavy blows with. Over time I bet I will work it to a good working tool. How do you go about making the radiuses and how do you make sure your getting it round and not a bunch of flat facets?

Thanks Phil.. I have read that one..I will re-read it. There seems to be quite a bit of difference of opinion on what to do..some say yes by all means radius it.. and some say why would you want to do that. It's difficult to know what to do.

Thanks Jake, Its 242#. I'm going to go to the lumber mill tomorrow and get a stump for it. Then I can use my RR rail anvil for the oliver hammer I'm going to build in the near future. How would you go about radiusing the edges..with a belt sander or a flap disk ect?

Well I finally got my Papa Rhino anvil. If it wasn't 5 deg. F I would light the forge and use it. I don't care that its not on a stump yet. Has no radiused edges or is still on the 2x4 pallet. :D

Wow, you guys are brutal. But that is some seriously funny stuff. :lol:

Thats awesome. take pics...we love pics. Let us know how well it works.

It's coming along nicely. Thanks for sharing this with us. I know I'm learning from it.

Sure Jake that sounds fine. Mail will work no problem if for some reason we can't hook up. I've been thinking about making things with WI and using high carbon for the parts that need to be. Like in the olden days. Axes, knives, and the like. Chisels, slitters? Anyway, when you get closer to your trip or when you get the WI sized let me know and I'll IM you my address.

Jake, thanks very much for the insight. I will take any help I can get. I understand exactly what your explaining to me. Now I have to make a slitting chisel and a larger drift. I'm going to have to go to Alaska Steel and get some I sure am glad the days are longer. I'm gonna need the light. I would be grateful for the WI. I have been looking at some on Ebay and thinking about getting it. When would you be coming to Fairbanks. I would love to have you over. No forging required, it would just be nice to meet and greet. Oh, I didn't tell you, I'm getting a Rhino anvil. 242#. It will be here Wed. or Thur. next week. Can't hardly wait. :D

http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/education/education_index.htm Try this some excellent information here too.

Now you tell me. :blink:

I got the 3/16th inch stock for the rivets at a local hardware, I think for 3 feet it was a 1.00. I didn't think of nails. Darn. That makes alot of sense.

Believe me when I tell you, I have never worried about perceptions of normalcy ever. That is just outstanding, sounds like we are going to have a fun summer. I went to the Valley Arts Alliance website, it didn't show any dates for the Art on Fire show. Just that it was in June. It's funny you should mention that type of tenon. I had considered that exact thing yesterday. Now I have to do it. And one for the hooky thingy on the end of the poker too. Oh, what have I gotten myself into. I hope my input for the group has been helpful. I know I'm a long way from everyone else, but I do enjoy participating.

I have used a utility knife to cut it its not easy but it does cut. I understand what you mean about an inside circle. Its a cement board. So, it has the hardness of concrete. But, I have used it personally for years. A utility knife, a drywall saw, anything like that will do it. Being concrete it is alot more durable and fire resistant than drywall, which is made of gypsum. 3/4" drywall is fire safety rated for 45 minutes to an hour. I'm not sure about the fire rating of durarock.

Hey Tom, Thanks for letting us ride along. That is some beautiful country your driving through. I don't envy you the snow though. I have all I need. Get home safe.

Hi Jeff, I think what I would do in your situation is use hardy board or durarock board. Both are cement products and much better suited to your use. I used metal studs to make my forge and a piece of 1/8th inch floor plate. Total cost less than $25 for materials. I cut my hole for my break drum and set it in. Then used black iron pipe for my air supply and ash dump. The black iron pipe I got from a plumbing supply for, I'm guessing here, maybe $20. Here are a couple of pics.

Here you go take a look at this. Just put something under it on the counter, a piece of steel plate or a 12" sq. paver and you could make a very nice little coffee can forge for the kitchen. http://www.zoellerforge.com/miniforge.html

Thanks Frosty, that means bunches to me. I will be making a few of these as I have the stock to do it and its just good practice not to mention fun. The next thing I'm gonna work on is maybe a tenon joint in one. Just for the experience of doing it. May not be the normal way to do it. But how am I going to learn if I don't try things?

The shed itself is a 12'x16' and the tarp is a 20'x20' with a peaked roof. I picked it up at Sam's here in Fairbanks for about $260ish??? or there abouts. I keep a couple of cords of wood under it, park a car there and also keep a corner for forging and hammering. In the shed I keep my belt sander, post vice, stock, coal and my hand tools ect. Eventually I'm going to move everything into the shed.

I made a couple of fireplace pokers and a coal poker for my forge. I like the oval handle better than the simple round. And I like the riveted poker better than the split one. How it turned out at least. The split one is 3/8" sq and the riveted is 1/2" sq. The coal poker is 3/8" round.