JNewman

I clicked on your picture because I thought you had the answer in the picture :)

This assumes you are hitting it in the same place if you are not turning it. If you hit it move it in or out then hit again you are not forging the flattened pill shaped section you are forging another pill beside the first and so on. I do agree you need to move the material every blow if you are drawing out. That being said I have heard that forging too much on one side then going on edge and forging too much on that edge can cause piping like forging round to round can do. However I don't believe if you keep things moving and flip before the bar gets flattened much that problem will not manifest. I usually forge like Macbruce does because I am not yet fast enough but I do keep things moving all the time. and am trying to get faster and faster with my flips. A lot of the things I forge need a 180 degree flip to keep things centered which can be hard to do with out letting off the treadle for a blow or two. I have forged 4" round down to 1.5" round using Macbruce;s method and cut off the end for testing and the bar was MPI tested so there was no piping as it would have been exposed by the end being cut off.

Well it is a pair of tools. The cage and flip away stopper block set for my power hammer. post 40 in this thread http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/8974-anvil-tool-holder/page-2

I think Grant Nailed it in post 2. Good enough is a moving target. Even when something was good enough I try to do better the next time I make the same thing.

That is essentially what I am suggesting except using hardened steel dowel pins rather than the capscrews. I like dowels for something like this as bolts will allow side to side movement.

Make sure you grind off your decarb before checking. I picked up some chisels/scrapers I do for a steel mill from the heat treater this week. They were still in the sandblasting cabinet when I got there. The guy checked the hardness because they had drawn them at a slightly lower temp and were concerned they might be too hard. They came in at 38RC, target was 40-43RC. The boss took the chisel and ground it a little with a dynafile and it came in at 42RC. I had another forged part I was checking the week before which came in in the low 30s but when I checked the cutting edge which had been ground with a set of hardness files it came in in the low 40s

My suggestions for doing it are either to machine the guides and dowel them and the back strips to a piece of Blanchard ground plate. The dowels would contain any side to side motion Then the mounting bolts would hold the whole thing together, No welding to warp the plate and no expensive dovetail cutter ($300 ) needed. Or Simple pattern with follow board 1 1/2 -2 hours. Then cast in ductile iron and 1/8" machining plus machining in the dovetail.

I built my second forge with a wooden frame with a firebrick hearth. I did not have a welder when I built it. I used that forge for 5 or six years. I spent most of a morning forge welding on a rush job and went in to the house for lunch. I came out after lunch to hear my CO detector going off. The forge frame was engulfed in flames and there were flames near my wooden shelves and close to the rafters. Fire extinguisher and hose put out the fire and I had to squeeze building a new forge in before the rush job. So while a wooden frame may work just fine. Never leave a fire unattended in it and look under the forge to make sure the radiant heat has not ignited anything before leaving the forge.

I would gently try a chain fall or forklift pulling it out the top, there is a hole through the nut. I might try the bottle jack route with a block of hardwood between the jack and the valve parts both to spread the load out and act like a load limiter. I would put tension on the top and keep it there while tapping or pressing from the bottom. Lots of oil, I think there is a penetrating oil recipe on here that is a mix of Acetone and Transmission fluid?

The valve is supposed to come out the top. You need to unhook the linkage and spring at the bottom first. Make sure you put the nut back on the top first. The spacing of the valves is CRITICAL and you want to make sure it stays together properly. My hammer had to sit outside for a couple of years and no water made it into the valving so hopefully it will not be as big a job as you think. The Massey breathes out the bottom rather than through the top like a Nazel with that rain catcher on the top.

I made a couple of forged bowls for Christmas presents today. After forging I threw them in the tumbler for an hour and a half. I wiped the dust off them with rags and alcohol. I then waxed them with past wax but when polishing them with white paper towels the paper towels kept coming up dirty. I put on a couple more coatings of wax but this did not solve the problem, even with a LOT of hand polishing. I was considering stripping the wax and lacquering them to eliminate the problem. I thought about how production tumbling setups sometimes use a tumbler filled with sawdust to clean and dry items. I grabbed a handful of sawdust from under my tablesaw and rubbed the bowls down with the sawdust. I did not do much rubbing but the problem was solved. I grabbed a piece of scrap out of the tumbler and the combination of wax and sawdust cleaned it up rapidly.

I have to agree it will not work and I question whether any epoxy will work either. I would check the dimensions again you might be surprised you may be able to find a matching nut at one of the large industrial suppliers such as MSC or Mcmaster Carr. If not you could try Babbitt which will not be terribly strong but I think will work better than trying to forge a nut.

There are several OABA members in the KW area. You should come out to some meetings and join. As well our President has an open forge at his shop just north of Fergus in most months. http://www.ontarioblacksmiths.ca/

I had planned on building one for years but bought one off Kijiji for $90. My drum is about 30" long and about 18" dia. The drum is an old water or air pressure tank. For media I am just using a bunch of offcuts that I hotcut off a repeat job that I do. I also threw in a handful of wood screws. I would like to get a bucketful of ironworker punchings to help clean concave areas. Most of the offcuts are too big and work well on convex surfaces but not so well on concave. I feel the 2 most dangerous tools in my whole shop are the wire wheel and the buffing wheel.

Waterjet may be better to keep them flat. They could stack them to speed up the cutting time.

The danger of grabbing and flying wires is why I use a tumbler as much as possible for finishing rather than wire wheel. As well it works while I am doing something else.

He did show the scaler he uses with Granger part number. I am sure I could build a similar one from the videos and information Bruce has given here. But if I needed one I would either buy one or the plans from Bruce because the bugs are worked out and I could probably buy it from him cheaper than I could make it here at my shop rate because he has made a couple and probably has jigs and layouts. But the information contained in this thread shows one much faster way to do this type of chisel work. If this was Bruce's only thread or posts I would agree with your point but he contributes a lot to this site and currently has another thread with a step by step as to how he is building a Bulldozer press. .

I did not say that they do not indicate other alloying elements. But they do indicate carbon content. Not EXACT carbon content but they do give you an idea of the carbon content. I know 1090 is close to 90 points of carbon 9260 is close to 60 points and 4140 is close to 40 points. If you want to know the exact chemistry of any bar you have to read the Mill test report or pay to have testing done.

Looks like a great machine Bruce. If I were doing ornamental work I would be ordering one. I have used a handheld muffler type gun modified so the chisel will not rotate. It saves hours of work and for simple incising work probably works as well for some work. But for the grooving and repousse work etc. the Zipmax blows it away. Because the pneumatic tools are hitting THOUSANDS of rapid light blows I think you actually get a better finish then doing it by hand as well as being astronomically faster. Are you stocking a finished one for sale Bruce? I am starting to get a little more historical restoration work to quote and may end up doing some ornamental work again in the next couple of years.

I would think a handled hot cut (used cold) driven though the cores with a sledge would make short work of them. Or even an axe with the poll softened driven with a sledge.

Yes there is a range like there are in ALL specifications. And yes the final digit can indicate some other alloying elements BUT I challenge you to tell me ANY AISI alloy that the final 2 digits (or 3 in the case of 52100) are not between the upper and lower limits of the alloy. USUALLY they are ROUGHLY in the middle of the upper and lower limits but some of the lower carbon alloys only have a maximum carbon allowed. The AISI system may not be perfect but if I see the 2 final numbers in an alloy I have an idea of how much carbon it has.

This is incorrect The second 2 numbers relate to the carbon content. 41 refers to a Nickel Chromium alloy.

I have welded without flux but flux allows you to weld at a lower heat. If you overheat the metal it can break or end up with a rough finish. So the flux gives you a wider band of temperature to weld at and can lessen the chance of burning the material. That being said I have seen several British smiths including the video above who do a great job welding without flux. Wrought iron and pure iron are both wonderful to weld and welds that would be impossible or incredibly difficult to do in mild steel can be done fairly easily. Most of my forging is industrial forging, This is another way to avoid doing a lot of electric welding. I do very little welding on work for customers. .if there is welding to be done to the forgings someone else does it. Sometimes I even sub it out to a welding shop myself. I have a local CWB certified welding shop who charges less per hour than I do. Which is the way it should be, there are a lot more welding shops around than blacksmith shops.

+3 for the old industrial drill press. Or if you have the room and can scrape up some extra cash, an old milling machine. I got rid of my drill press once I got the mill.

I just checked the ASM heat treaters guide for you, the carbon content is the only chemical difference. Quenching temp is 1555 vs 1570 for 4140 and hardness is slightly harder for the same tempering temperature.