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M.J.Lampert

2021 Donor
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Posts posted by M.J.Lampert

  1. 1 hour ago, George N. M. said:

    serif fonts

    messed around a little and i will agree that the serif fonts look much better though when the combined letters are centered the m is slightly out of line i tried all the fonts on the site (a meager 12) and couldn't get that quirk out still think it looks nice another idea that came to mind was to use just the letters but after thomas' comment i think that might be a bad choice

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  2. 25 minutes ago, George N. M. said:

    Interestingly enough I tend to bounce between using imperial and metric units.  I can never get my head easily around the celsius temoerature scale.  If someone says it is going to be X degrees C outside today I don't know whether to wear a parka or cut offs and tee shirt.

    "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

    negative(-) means its cold 0(32F) to 9(48F) is chilly 10(50F) to 25(77F) is nice and 30(86F) plus is to hot 

    negative 40 both ways is the same (too flipping cold) farhenhite i need to convert to understand so i get where your coming from

    i personally wear a t-shirt year round a long-sleeve just goes on top for a cold day and shorts come out after 25C 

    i use yards feet and inches steady and precision work i do is usually in .001"

  3. so I've decide on a name for my smithy "Two Mountain Ironworks". Now i am trying to decide on my touchmark/logo i have narrowed it down to two options but cant get past these 2 choices. I am looking to get a 1/2" stamp from Columbia Marking tools with whatever my final decision is. if y'all wanna throw your word in that would be appreciated

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    tmi2.thumb.jpg.f260470245e61ffae9873aae931f00e0.jpg

    thanks 

    M.J.Lampert

  4. duckkisser when i started i went straight to knives (not a smart move) then after a few months I came here and started learning did 2 or three months without tongs and greatly improved. Go to your metal supplier and buy a length of mild steel (1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" square) and then use them at a length of about 2-4 ft you don't need tongs and can practice tapers and making S or J hooks believe me get that to pat and you will be much better off, until you learn how to work the steel tongs can be a hinderance.

    learn from those on here like Frosty, Thomas, Irondragon and all the other old guys you never know when you no longer can there used to be a curmudgeon tag on the smartest ones (updates did away with that:() i almost never got the pleasure of learning from Frosty and Thomas is always at odds with his diabetes.

    They love to pass their knowledge but look it up first, they've answered a lot of questions here already and don't always appreciate answering questions for the 1000ths time or one that's so vague that there's a million ways it can get an answer. REASERCH and then give a PRECISE question looking for one thing then ask another on another subject after

    M.J.Lampert

  5. 21 hours ago, Les L said:

    MJ, did you anchor the shelf to keep it from tipping over? And always remember that heavy goes on bottom and light on top 

    the shelf is not anchored as there are shelves directly behind it with items my father may need to get to;)

    they are also two piece posts so number 2 shelf has to stay there and number1 cant go lower as the 30# tank wont fit and my father basically said I need to clean up my section or clean out.:ph34r: I can easily change the level of the shelves to  different setups if this doesn't work out and each shelf is supposed to support 600# 

    nice wrench karambits every one

  6. got some shelving up and filled immediately got that filled so now the plan is to make some hooks and brackets to fit in the rivet holes of the angle iron nothing fancy but enough to do the job one done and a few more to do later on

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    also spent quite a few hours Sunday aligning and then making  a pulley for a zipline bored out to have about .001-.002" friction fit with the bearing

    IMG_0501.thumb.JPG.771b73f06194f71f812134f4f6d7313c.JPG

     M.J.Lampert

  7. yes that would also have been a factor as tanks must be thick to withstand high pressures

    i have recently taken interest in the pacific theater after studying the European theater for a few years. multiple Japanese commanders said beforehand that japan could expect 6 months of victories against the US and Britain before they would see major interference and if the war lasted more than three years japan was sure to loose  

  8. ok thanks you that's kind of what i thought but wanted to be sure

    On 5/21/2022 at 9:47 AM, Frosty said:

    The end of the horn on my Soderfors is about the size of the end of my little finger and leaves a bruise that can take weeks to fade. It'll teach you to watch where you're going.

    Frosty The Lucky.

    this one is the size of my thumb or a little more

  9. looking at stand designs on the dedicated thread sadly the first 2 hands of pages are short on images Show me your anvil stands - Page 35 - Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc - I Forge Iron

    looking at this one https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51596-show-me-your-anvil-stands/?do=findComment&comment=519256 

     

    also like this design https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51596-show-me-your-anvil-stands/?do=findComment&comment=469929

     both would work well as my anvil has no good point to tie into many others to sort through before i decide

     

    finally i see a lot of anvils have extra chain wrapped around I've hear that this reduces the ring, is this true?

    M.J.Lampert

     

  10. 22 hours ago, Rojo Pedro said:

    M.J.  my Kanca had a thick layer of clear coat on the face. It was very hard to remove with a cup brush. Have you removed the clear if it came with any?  You will get better rebound afterwards

    My Kanca seems very hard to me. It has %95+ rebound in the sweet spot and has barely any marks after three years of weekends

    i will see if there is any coating on it

    i found similar rebound across the face varying at most 15% IMHO

    M.J.Lampert

  11. 23 hours ago, George N. M. said:

    MJ, 12" guns were used on both dreadnaught and pre-dreadnaught battleships of the US Navy from the 1890s to about 1912-13.  They were also used on the Alaska class largre cruisers in late WW2.  

    The US Army also used 12" guns for coastal defense from the 1880s to through WW2.  

     

    and once again i learned more in three minutes from you George than half a dozen Wikipedia pages and an hour 

    thanks sir

    though in my searches it appears the Wyoming had all her guns removed in Philadelphia 

    another neat side-note Omaha beach was the first time the USS Arkansas ever fired in anger at 05:52 June 6 1944

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