Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    São Paulo, SP, Brazil
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

686 profile views
  1. Because of the gap between the tuyere's pipe and the clinker ball... stuff will easily fall through, I guess. But maybe that's just something that I'm afraid will happen and, as Thomas said: This might be the simpler solution. And yes, I'd really some input from the guys who know what they're doing, unlike me, regarding connecting the tuyere to the pot...
  2. Nope, after I posted the images were gone for me too... Yeah, that's what I'm currently thinking about. I could go and remove that small "pipe bevel" (IDK how to call it) and make the whole thing touch the bottom plate, or I can weld four big hex headed screws on the under side of the bottom plate - thus not needing to remove the bevel on the tuyere and making the screws head's act as an spacer. IDK which approach would be better, but the former sounds safer. Also, I went ahead and made another model a bit more like Bob's design: 3 1/2" deep but with sizes adjusted to my tuyere. Here's how the model looks: VID_20200613_202626170.mp4 I had a company cut the whole thing down on 1/2" plates for me: Don't judge my welding I'm still figuring out how I'm going to cut that square hole on the bottom plate. I'll probably try with my angle grinder, but it might turn out bad. The alternative is having another nearby company plasma cut the piece with the hole for me. I'm pretty happy with the result. Seems very sturdy even though I eyeballed most of it (as I have almost no tool to weld stuff). Cheers!
  3. Brush wire to the face sounds tempting when beard is growing, I get you, DH Anyway, the anvil's face is not that dirty, Frosty, not as much as the rest of it, but if there's no problem, I'll go with a straight wire brush which is a but less "offensive". Cheers all!
  4. Found some more listing of this same model here... We have/had some French rail companies here and during the Brazilian "Belle Epoque", we had a lot of influence of french culture (thus the name). Want to clean mine up a bit and then get some carnaúba wax on her. I think I'll wire brush the whole thing, but what about the face? Is it OK to wire brush the face? Cheers!
  5. Hey, guys. So, two thing. First, this is the solution I found to avoid the large gap between the ball and the side of the pipe: VID_20200612_134736258.mp4 What you think? Also, the model I made looks like this: It's about 2 1/2" deep. What you guys think? The steel plate the seller has available is 1010, 1020 and A36. Which one should I go for? Cheers all!
  6. Still. I get pretty bothered when someone reaches out to me and goes like "man, look at what this guys are doing! It's crazy. It's awesome". I politely say that it's nice and try to show them some really beautiful video on the subject. For those who come to me about knives, I share this one: Really love it. This is gold. Pure gold. Watched this about a month ago. "Wordless" is a good description. Made me a little emotional too. This all is what I understand as the real beauty of the craft. Not what's sold on TV shows... Thanks for sharing all this, guys. Thanks a lot.
  7. Thanks a lot for all the inputs guys. Because of the language barrier I face some difficulty visualizing everything you guys describe, so if you're able to and it's not much work, I'd really appreciate whatever pictures you guys think would be nice to share. The first thing I though before your post was putting a plate over the opening to reduce the hole diameter. Something along these lines: But now I'll give some more thought to what you guys shared. Once again, thanks a lot!
  8. Unfortunately the coke that I buy here varies a lot of size. Sometimes is small, like 4-5 mm, other times it's quite large like 20-30 mm... Would you mind sharing some pictures of your firepot + clinker breaker? I guess I'd have to go with trial and error... Cheers!
  9. I'm more concerned about the space between the ball and the tubing. Seems a bit too large... When looking at other examples, I can see that the distance is smaller, avoiding coal/coke falling through. Some examples I found on Google: Does it make sense what I'm thinking? I'm honestly asking because I really don't know much about firepots. Thanks!
  10. they say commercial link removed that it is 2-1/2" long with a 2" wide flat face. Following those measurements, mine is 2 3/4" long but has no flat face. The shape is different. I'm not sure what I should understand from looking at theirs. Thanks
  11. So I was looking into some designs and I settled with Bob's, then I took a second look at my tuyere and the think is large... The top opening (where the clinker breaker is located) is 4 3/4". And from the distance between the fixing hole (diagonal) is 6 1/2". I think that if I leave it like that, most coke will fall through without even getting a heat... This a really big opening, isn't it? I don't want to leave this tuyere aside. What can I do to adapt it to a firepot design like Bob's? I thought about having a plate that would fit between the tuyere and the bottom of the firepot, to get rid of the distance without stressing the parts and then have the bottom of the firepot have a smaller hole; We'd only be able to see a small part of the clinker breaker.
  12. Now actually related to this topic. I disassembled the blower, gave it a good cleaning and painted it: I love hammered paint. Now I'm struggling with the firepot dimensions. I don't know which way to follow.
  • Create New...