Jim L.

I'm sorry, Bart. I can't get a pic. Jim L.

Will do! This won't be a fast project, but I'll keep y'all posted. Jim L.

Why not reforge a new tang from about an inch from the break?

I was wondering if any one had ever used brake disks to forge a blade from. I'm told that these are made froma very high carbon steal (I'm thinking motorcycle disks). My thinking is that they are exceptionally hard and after working can be configured via forging, treat and quenching might make an interesting blade.....or would this be a waste of time. Jim L.

Actually I believe its fleas. I'm told that it interupts the reproductive cycle. I have pets and it does seem to kill of fleas in the carpet and furniture. Jim L.

The refractory that I came up with works OK, but I think I mixed it too wet from what I've been reading. I just used some whit brick mortar mixed with pearlite. Jim L.

My little "Mk 2 coffee can forge uses a side blast that was directed alond the side. The result is a vortex that swirls the heat through out the forge. Right or wrong, that's what I have. Any suggestions welcome. Jim L.

I currently use a coffee can forge lined with refractory. Well actually the "Mk 2" used a can for the inner liner (burned away fairly quickly as expeted )that formed the fractory inside of a larger container. Air is forced via low pressure compressor through a 1/2 in. pipe. I do need to modify for ash dump. Jim L.

I live on a wooded lot with lots of dead fall from hardwood (mostly) and not so hard. I look at it this way; I have to clear and burn it anyway, why not doit in a way that I can reclaim it in the form of charcoal. A couple of burns in a 3 ft. (3w X 3d) pit yields 2 1/2 wheelbarrows full of charcoal. So far so good. I haven't tried welding yet, but that is coming. Jim L.

Bummy, Couldn't you line the tray with refractory and eliminate the bump? Jim L.

Hey Francis, Can I get in on those plans, too? Jim L.

Very cool! How does one come across these? What was it's origional purpose? :confused: Jim L.

My first thought was "Oh! Wow! Jim L.

Beautiful work! I can't wait to start forge welding. Jim L.

Thanks for the reply. I didn't see the link for the "previouse post" though. :confused: Jim L.

The place where I work just had some elevator work done. A little schmoozing with the workers scored me about 12 feet of 5/8 inch cable. `Problem is I don't know the first thing about welding, much less doing it with cable (pre-lubed). How do I cut it. Does it have to be welded before being cut or forging. What to use to clean thick oil off?????? :confused: Any help/suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Jim L.

How'd you get bakelite that thickness? Jim L

Come to think about it I tried this out first with some dead fall cypress from my back yard. It's not as hard as it should be, but harder than untreated. Beautiful wood too! Jim L.

D. mike, Have a look at the link about stabilizing. This should help, though I think most pines would be too soft. Jim L.

I've been playing with a lacquer base stabilizing system. On one of the other groups it's been dubbed the "canning" method. Blocks of "wet" (haven't tried green yet) wood are put into a sealable gallon jar and covered with a roughly half and half solution of thinned lacquer. Use a double boiler with a flame/sparkless heat sorce to bring this up to boil. Once the solution stops gassing out, seal the lid down for a couple weeks (don't forget to put a releasing agent down on the rim of the jar or the lacquer will glue it shut). leave it sealed for a couple weeks, then open the jar (leave the lid on to cover) and allow the blocks to remain in solution for another week. Remove from solution and let it dry out, usually about three weeks. The wood won't be that much harder, but most of the water will be replaced with lacquer. In the bottom of the jar you'll see water and a kind of biological goo made from leached sap and critter juice from any bugs/worms in the wood. So far I've used this on spalted live oak from my wood pile with out any checking/cracking (so far). You will still have to use a sealing agent such as polyurethane for finish and to protect from moisture, UV, etc. Or you could just soak it Min Wax wood hardener for a week under vacuum. Good luck with whatever you use. Jim L.

OK, here's a stupid question..... Any problem with the corn popping? Jim L.

I've used corian with some success. Jim L.