George N. M.

BTW, black walnuts make a great dye stuff for coloring yarn, kind of a red brown. Use the husks outside the hulls. We used to have a black walnut tree and the way I separated the hulls from the nuts for Martha was lining them up on the driveway and driving the car's tires over them. Removed the husks and didn't harm the nuts. Usually used the treadle hammer to crack the shells. Black walnuts for dying are similar to butternuts which were used for dying Confederate uniforms during the American Civil War. There are enough steel wool couples here that someone might be interested in the husks as a dye stuff. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming. Glad to have you. I agree with everything Frosty said. Rebar is generally a poor source of steel for forging because of its random consistency. Sometimes it will vary a lot over a short distance along its length. There are a few things that it is suitable for such as tent pegs but that is about it. Older, salvaged rebar is usually more consistent, modern stuff, not so much. Ancient smiths used ground anvils and fires but it is pretty hard on your knees and back, even for a young person. It is not too hard to build a stand even for an improvised anvil. Then you can do all your work standing up. There are some good blacksmithing videos on You Tube but until you have a feel for the credibility of an individual you need to be pretty skeptical. The same for comments on forums. Some people know their stuff but some are better at posting than they are at metal working, The channels I like are Black Bear Forge, JPL Services (our own Jennifer), Torbjorn Ahman, and Christ Centered Ironworks. There are others but I, personally, like those. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Alexandr, some examples of very nice and cool work. I particularly liked the waterfall. Are the few women in the photos smiths? I wish more of them were on IFI. Google Translate could work in both directions. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

If you take Nodebt's advice you should put a fairly deep crease in the upper left side to simulate a blow from a right handed opponent. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Very cool, John. Now I've got another location to visit on my bucket list. English investors in the 17th and 18th century invested in iron production in the colonies because of the abundant wood/charcoal available. England had been largely deforested or charcoal had become too expensive. Much of the pig iron was exported to England. By 1750 England eliminated any tariffs on colonial iron but prohibited the production of iron plate or steel in the colonies (largely ignored). By 1776 the colonies were producting about as much iron as England. Ater independence the USA was the 3d largest producer of iron in the world after Russia and Sweden. Short historical diversion. Sometimes I can't help myself. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Jobtiel, very nice work. I now have tool box envy. Can you address your thoughts, pro and con, about a latch or hasp to secure the lid? GNM

I don't know how sanctions are affecting the travel of individuals but if you ever came to the US you would have LOTS of friends to visit. As Frosty says, there would be so much visiting there would be little sightseeing or forging. Madelynn and I have a trip to Scandinavia planned once it is safe to do so. We are very covid cautious so it may be awhile. Hope to be able to meet some of the IFI folk in that part of the world. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

I agree with Irondragon, scrap value, about 25 cents/pound. That said, I would pass on many used springs because of mirco-cracks which can translate to blade failure if used in knife making. In particular, I would avoid any broken springs because they failed for a reason. Also, I have found that some newer spings are odd alloys which may not forge well or have difficulties hardening and tempering. I have generally had better luck with older springs which are usually uncomplicated metal. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Yes, you can temper by moving a long blade or item back and forth over a heat source like a forge fire and watch the tempering colors. Or, you can dig a trench build a fire in it (charcoal may be best) let it die down to an even bed of coals and put the blade or tool on the coals and watch the tempering colors. I'd do it in the twilight or on a cloudy day so that you can see the colors better and not be dazzled by the fire like you would in full dark. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Good to hear that. Healing and physical therapy should make it possible for her to dispose of the walker fairly soon. Keep us updated of her progress. GNM

Titanium is really good in corrosive environments. That is why you see diver's knive made of it. Steel would be a better blade but unpainted/coated steel and salt water don't play nicely together. Ti is also very light compared to strength. So, that is why you see it in air and space craft. And it has very cool and vivid oxidation colors which make it desirable for jewelry. I saw a pair of Ti tongs which would have been nice because of their light weight but the $100 asking price was too rich for my blood. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

You also might want to try real machinist's (dome head) or tinner's (flat head) steel rivets which are more traditional in armoring rather than modern pop rivets which always look inappropriate and a bit cheesy IMO. That said, if you are doing fantasy armor that may not be as much of a problem. Also, if you are making helmets or other armor just for the look of the thing rather than the actual functionality of turning a blow from a weapon structural strength is not as big a concern. For example, armor for boffer combat can be made out of plastic or cardboard but armor used in blunted steel or rattan (SCA) combat has to be very functional and close to the original thing. Good luck and keep posting here. We LOVE pictures. Also, I believe there are some armoring forums, particularly connected with the Society for Creative Anacronism (SCA). "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming. Glad to have you. I think that this has been a BOMTICC (Bit Off More Than I Can Chew) project for you. One of the thing you have to earn about armor making is that things have to be shaped and assembled in a certain way because once assembled it can be tough to impossible to do the necessary forming operations. For example, the crown should be fully formed, planished, and smoothed prior to attaching it to the brow piece or the fore and aft piece that goes over the top. Now, you will need a very long stake to be able to smoth out the crown pieces. The sides should have had their bottoms flared prior to assembly. You may be able to do it now by placing the bottom endge over the horn of an anvil or other round object and tapping it from the inside. If the material were steel this is something best done hot because you are stretching the metal in the flare. Since it appears that you are using copper you may be able to do it cold if you anneal the metal to get it as sort as possible. If you don't already know, you anneal copper, brass, or bronze by heating it and then quenching it in water. It is the opposite of what happens with high carbon steel where quenching hardens the metal. Frankly, it is kind of a hot mess right now. If it were me, I'd drill out the pop rivets and disassemble it and start over. You may have to discard some parts because of burn throughs or other damage. It is tough to get all the planning right. Often, a person really wants to get into a project and complete something cool but you have to rein yourself in and think about the project logically, beginning to end. As youself, "Can I do X if I do Y first or does it have to be the other way around?" This can come from hard experience or you can carefully think it out before ever touching a piece of metal. It often helps me to draw things out and even make a paper or cardboard prototype. Also, it is sometimes a good idea to assemble things using small nuts and bolts before permanent assembly using rivets or welds. Good luck, and consider any mistakes made or time lost to be tuition for learning how to do better on your next project. BTW, what part of Chicagoland are you in? I grew up on the South Side (7600 South and the Lake, next to Rainbow Park and Beach). "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Frosty, Martha had a story about 2 elderly sisters she was related to in western NY who had a hired man who transplanted wild strawberries from the woods to the garden where he tenderly cared for them and they produced berries the size of commercial berries but still had the intense flavor of wild berries. I can't imagine what you could sell those for if you could produce them in commercial quantities. He worked for the sisters for many years. They finally got rid of the cow when it got to be too much for him when he turned 100. GNM

Dan, my uncle lived in Lancaster next door to Depew. I remember Como Lake Park when we would visit him. The intersection mentioned is in the Township of East Amherst. Casey interesects Transit about a mile south of French Rd. on the way north to Lockport. My father-in-law had been a medieval history professor at the University of Hawaii and when they retired they moved from Honolulu back to the Buffalo area where they were originally both from. There were various reasons for that but the two largest were that they were able to sell thier modest home in Hawaii and buy a really nice, large house in the Buffalo area with a good bit left over and they kind of had "island fever" which is the feeling of geographic restriction/clautrophobia that comes from living on a small island. I recall my FIL telling me that after they moved back to the Mainland that it was great to go for an afternoon drive and not go past is own house 3 times. Good luck with your teaching plans. Once I have my shop fully set up I plan to have at least 1 more forging station for instructional purposes. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Great! We wish her well during the rehab. She won't be dancing tomorrow but she should be mobile pretty soon. G&M

Billy, IIRC the Egyptians did use copper "butterflys" to tie stones together. As to the detail in unseen places there is a story about a medieval stone carver who was making statues of saints, etc. which would be placed high in the cathederal a paaer by noticed that he was carving and finishing the backs, which would never be seen, with as much detail and care as the fronts. When asked why he was doing so much work that would never be seen he replied, "If I didn't God would know and I would know." Very possibly a similar sentiment was in place in India. Anything worth doing is worth overdoing. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

In a press or under a hammer the softer metal will deform. To use aluminum or brass for a die you would need to be using it with something softer. I think that steel, even close to welding temperature, would be no softer than cold aluminum or brass even if it was softer to start with it would quickly cool to being harder than the die. So, short answer, no, it probably would not work. "By hammer nd hand all arts do stand."

She will be in our thoughts and prayers. One of the issues of getting older is that it is harder to get and install replacement parts. ;=) George and Madelynn

You may want to contact the Chambers of Commerce or Economic Development in Camas or Vancouver to see if there are any storage unit places that are catering to entrepreneurs or "makers" such as woodworkers, microbrewers, potters, etc.. That may fit your needs better than a plain vanilla locker. Also, many units do not have electrical power which may not restrict forging but will be a problem if you are doing bench work with a drill, grinder, etc.. Make sure they know that you will have large fire extinguisher handy. For a number of years I forged in a rented garage with my coal forge just outside the open door and my anvil just inside. It worked reasonably well but in the winter it got problematic. If you do find a place where you can set up a propane forge inside make absolutely sure that you have adequate ventilation and at least 1 carbon monoxide detector. In older neighborhoods you may be able to find a detached garage that is not being used by the owner and they would rather have a monthly rent check. In that case, make sure you have all the fire suppression and safety equipment and present yourself as trustworthy. BTW, you are a "hobby metal worker" NOT a blacksmith. If you are presenting yourself as a business you are a small metal working concern, again, NOT a blacksmith. Blacksmithing carries connotations of loud, dirty, and dangerous to lay folk. Good luck. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming. Glad to have you. "Clay" on the forge is an instruction rather than a brand name. You are supposed to place a layer of clay in the bottom of a cast iron forge to protect the brittle cast iron from thermal shock which could cause it to crack. The value of the torge, which looks in pretty good shape if the blower is working well (when you are cranking it there should be little resistance and it should windmill for a couple turns after you release it) is dependent on the demand in your area. Check ebay and craigslist in your area to see if there are similar items for sale to get a comparison. I, from 1800 miles away, would ask $350 and accept $250-300 but at the end of the day it is worth what the buyer is willing to pay and what the seller is willing to accept. Haggling is the norm in these types of sales. If you set a firm price and reject all lower offers it will take a lot longer to sell it. Either you or your friend could do something radical and get into blacksmithing. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Some years ago I watched a documentary where they sent a small, tracked robot with a camera up one of the ventilation shafts in the Great Pyramid. The most interesting thing they found was a copper chisel which someone had apparently accidentally dropped down the shaft 4500 years ago. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Alexandr, is this in Spain or ar you back in St. Petersburg? How were the prices? Did you buy anything cool? I have always wanted to attend European flea markets or car boot sales. GNM

Actually, I find forging in the twilight, either evening or morning, to be very satisfying. This is particularly true in the summer when it is too hot during the day. If you can stand to get up early the morning twilight and the early daylight is the coolest time of the day. You can get in a reasonable amount of forge time before it gets uncomfortably hot. This is applicable at lower altitudes. Here at 7500' there are only a few days in the summer where it is too hot to work in the shop. The absolute record high in Laramie is 94 degrees and we are about 300' higher than the official recording station. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

If you don't like change, put it in the tip jar.