Trevor84

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Everything posted by Trevor84

  1. AFB thanks ya they're for holding RR spikes by the head. So far they seem to work fairly well.
  2. Oh boy I missed a bunch while I was away. 671Jungle, that's a beautiful flame nice stable shape. Hey Mike I already had two burner Tubes made up so I would be able to try different lengths after the air slots. For some reason I can't get a decent flame burning outside the forge, I'm trying to use a step nozzle and have put it together in several configurations but I either run rich with the orange flame or I blow the flame out. I cleaned up the air slots, trimmed the mixing tube to 8" after the air slots, 0.023 contact tip. Inside the forge I can get these flames. I get no dragons breathe once I get the forge up into the yellow range and yellow is easy to hit and hold. Im not sure what you see in these flames but they seem to be working fairly well. To hold a yellow temp with my old burner running a 0.035 tip I would run about 10psi. This burner running a 0.023 I run about 10psi for the se yellow temp. Am I correct in assuming that I am using less fuel but getting more heat because I'm getting a more efficient burn? Here's a couple flame pics and a pair of tongs this new burner helped make.
  3. Hey Mickey "very hot" is a good start, I already have a .030 tip turned down so it's a real easy change over. I have not read your book only picked up dimensions here and there in this thread and others so I've kinda pieced those bits together. The mixing tube portion (from the tip of the burner to the beginning of the openings) is 7 1/2" if that's too short I have another tube all ready made up that is about 8 3/8" so I have a little bit of option on length. Could you refresh me on how you determine a "very hot" flame? Is it because of the compact conical shape vs a looser flame that more or less blooms out of the nozzle? After I get these couple things dialed in I'll pick your brain on the "other" minor things Thank you
  4. When the burner is in the forge the current pieces I am using as a nozzle only act as spacers, they butt up to the flare in the liner. Outside the forge I just slid these spacers out into a multi step type nozzle just to see how it would act ( I do have other pieces to make a step nozzle as Mickey describes which will be used in future testing ). Your description of the flame makes sense and adds to my ability to visualize what I am looking for. I guess the first thing I do tonight is going to be taking this apart and give it a clean again to make sure I have zero residue left to rule that out then put the proper step nozzle on and exhaust tuning option there before moving to the next step. When it comes to the where the orifice should be, I have not found that measurement so I have just listened to it and it sounds like about 1/2" away from the throat may be the ticket there. With the 035 tip in there using the choke does zip until it's almost fully closed so no adjustment to play with there currently. I do know from reading that the 035 is way bigger than what Mickey calls for so I'm not sure why I started there but it's an easy change if I can't find neutral. Thanks again Frosty I'm sure Mickey will be around eventually, I got at least 9hrs before I can get back to it anyway........... that whole work thing this is how the current step looks like this is a rough idea of how the burner lines up in the forge, it mates up with the cast liner about an inch into the liner unlike how it looks like in the pic but this shows how the cast nozzle kind of looks
  5. The last 3 pics are all without changing anything with the burner but the amount of orange will constantly change. In the forge the nozzle is cast into my liner however outside the forge I have a step nozzle on there. The nozzle is a 1" nipple with a 1/2" overhang then a 1 1/4" overhanging the 1" by about 7/8". The orifice seems to have the same outcome when I set it between 1/2" from the bottom of the air slots up to about 1 1/2". I have another jet set up with a .030 tip that I will try out tonight but in the meantime if you have any thoughts I am all ears. Frosty thank you. I wasn't quite sure about the color but if you're thinking that looks rich I will definitely try out the .030 jet, I always struggle judging the flame colors. Is the tertiary suggesting rich or the color of the blue?
  6. Good morning folks, I'm back with another build I'm in the tuning stage now and looking for thoughts on my progress. 3/4" Mickey burner with a 0.035 contact tip in a schedule 80 1/8" nipple and tapered to a point, mixing tube is 7 1/2" from the bottom of the air slots. The air slot area is divided into 6 and 3" long so that the solids are the the same width as the openings. The vertical the slots have opposing bevel's, like the sides are cut in the same direction. This just happened because of how I was holding the grinder but I assume it helps induce the vortex action, the bottom and tops of the slots have opposing bevels as well. Once I cleaned up these openings with a file I was able to see the vortex develop when looking at the flame straight on, you can kind of watch a ring of flame slowly rotate during ignition. With this set up my flame itself seems pretty good but I am getting what looks like a lot of tertiary flames at times and lots of streaks. I've tried cleaning the mixing tube with a rag pushed back and forth in the tube with a few shots of brake cleaner. I think that some of the orange flame is still from residual oils because without touching anything and just standing watching the flame I can watch it go from almost no tertiary to a growing plume of orange flame that will back off eventually also if I tap the mixing tube I still get streaks. I think I need to try and clean the parts a bit more........... With the same setting as seen in the previous pic but forge warmed up I was able to leave this shined up piece of metal directly under the flame for about 5 min with no scale formation. The flame becomes almost incandescent once the forge is hot with very minimal DB. Here you can see the ring right at the nozzle, in a video you can see that ring slowly rotate but the flame has a nice cone shape from the side.
  7. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Ya, no flat rate boxes here, some stores are able to ship at better rates than others but I think that's when they have larger contracts with curries or something. I think the shipping was more than the actual product when I talked to Glen last I think. I was going to just add the zircopax to my mortar but the supplier recommended I try the bentonite, it turns out he knew more about this stuff than I did. So between him and you guys I may have everything I need...... Being able to make ones own bricks would be a treat once you get the recipe down that is. If you can make strong re emmisive tiles instead of just strong would be a nice touch.
  8. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    After the following I have done here I actually do follow for the most part. Like I say I'm no chemist but I'm definitely getting the gyst of it, I've been reading through these threads for the last year or so trying to get a decent visual of everything. The floor in my forge is soft Ifb and got beat up pretty bad and then I leveled it out with high alumina mortar but low and behold...... mortar just won't stay solid at high temp when used this way that's why I'm thinking of replacing my bricks with others I have already and then using a kiln shelf when I plan on welding. The main forge body (D forge) has a kast-o-lite lining but it would be nice to have a higher alumina wash on it or better yet the zirconia wash. When I ordered some other stuff from the company I mentioned above I grabbed a bag of "Ultrox" (zircopax) and a bag of bentonite clay. I may just have to try out a thin wash, I already have the kast-o-lite shell so I just need a thin wash so I probably don't have to worry as much about it cracking up. I just happened to see that alumina being offered as a dry product from this site, they have a large selection of products available on small quantities. It's sounding like 3% bentonite 97% zircopax and mix to a latex paint consistency, dab it on and give it a long time to dry...... I would just order some plistex Burt everywhere I quote it it comes to almost $100 after shipping. I could get a half pint of ITC 100 for $50 but as you say and I've read is that it's designed to be able to flake off so a person can clean their kiln shelves easier when doing pottery. That's why I'm curious about the he brew since it's like $30 and it sounds like there are some decent benefits.
  9. You're welcome my pleasure, I hope they help someone out
  10. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    I'm waiting to hear back from the company as this is the only sds I've found, I'm not sure if you can read it but it doesn't look very high in alumina. However they say they sell "high alumina" kiln shelves by the piece so I'll wait to hear back from them and let you know.
  11. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Thanks Mickey. I'm definitely thinking an easily replaceple floor would be ideal. I don't have slots built in this forge but swapping a 1/4" thick tile in and out would be fairly simple. I am not planning on welding big billets or anything crazy with this forge so I don't need a thick cast floor and soft bricks take a beating regardless of flux so I figure I'll try out your recommendation of the shelves.
  12. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Ok, I'm still curious about the kiln shelve but I found some more reading material regarding re-emisve and kiln washs to read before starting another conversation here about it.
  13. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    I'm no chemist and haven't played with creating refractory coatings but I'm just curious if there's any way "calcined alumina" be beneficial in making a kiln wash/adding to a refractory product or would you just be running the same issues as the bentonite/veegum cracking up? I know this is sn old subject and admittedly I'm not up to date with the latest out comes. I just happened stumbled across this when searching for kiln shelves.
  14. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Good morning all. Mickey when it comes to kiln shelves I am wonder how flux resistant they can be, it sounds like you tend to use them alot. I can order these kiln shelves, this is the sds I know "good enough" isn't an appropriate question moreso my question is how long do you think 1/4"would last? I have the choice of 1/4" thick or 1/2", I like the idea of having a removable/replaceable floor but don't want to create more of a heat sync than necessary...... This company is in Canada "pottery supply house"
  15. Bustapepper I'm not sure if you've found him yet But Shawn at Front Step Forge in Edmonton stocks some of that at a pretty decent price. I bought 2' of 1045 2" round for $60, my local supplier quoted me $1,000 for 4' of the same, I understand some mark up but seriously wtf
  16. Melvin, thanks for these now I have more formulas to look at and wish I could decipher them :(. Seriously though thank you I try to gather all these links I can in the hopes that if I read enough of them they'll start to make sense one day.
  17. "I try and I made it" William Kamkwanda (movie "the boy who harnessed the wind") It may not be a blacksmith quote but fits in this craft. If you start with a positive mind set you can accomplish a lot. This kid cobbled together a windmill from garbage and saved his village during a massive drought.
  18. Trevor84

    Bottle Opener Tongs

    Well thank JHCC thank you for this and I really like that bottle opener. I will be making a set of these tongs soon I had been trying to think of a new tong for these openers, also I'm glad I have finally seen a set of reverse opening tongs. I've thought in the past that there has to be a use to this type of reverse opening now my mind can rest....... for a little bit.
  19. Oh boy, Frosty please tell me you copy and pasted that and don't have that memorized I don't think I could handle the jealousy of the knowledge you posses. Seriously though that's a great run down and example. I study what I can when I can but I am not the best at it so I really appreciate the little blurbs like this you and others share here. Ok back to reading I go
  20. You know, you guys helped me and I then trickled that knowledge down to help many others over on FB. Lots of guys don't listen and take the easy route but then there's a few guys that listen and solve their problem be it forge, burner, other project. I'll spend plenty of time communicating back and forth and then when they get where they want to be I give them a "like". You could have done the same and I would still be happy with my results but you went one step further and validated the time and effort in a way that put a smile on my face. It may sound sappy but that meant a lot, we all can do that for others, it took what 45 sec to type out but I'll remember that every time I light my forge. If we all did the same the world would be a much happier place. I will try and carry this message forward
  21. If you like watching videos better you could search Habermann tongs and there's a video from Joey van der Steeg that is what I tried to copy when making these, so if you're on here THANKS Joey.
  22. Good day folks, I've been here awhile but have contributed little to date so going forward I'll try and work on that. This is my second attempt at this style of tongs and I managed to snap pics of most of the steps I took to forge these so I figure I might as well throw them up here and maybe someone will benefit. I warn you that this may not a perfect how to but it may give someone enough reference to muddle through their next pair of tongs. Also if anyone has pointers on what I could do better next time regarding the build or the "how to" I am open to advice. I think these are deemed Habermann bolt jaw tongs but I can't vouch for that title so let's call them 1" bolt jaw / V bit tongs. They'll hold 1" square and round, 3/4" square and round and 1" flat stock Material: two 10"x1"x3/8" mild flat stock, 2 1/4"ish mild round for rivet Tools: (I used) hammer of choice, guillotine with butcher dies, 1/2" slitter, 5/16" round punch, 1/2" drift, top and bottom V swage and for the rivet I used a bolster to upset one end before hot fitting in the tongs. Mark at 1" 2.5" and 3.5" Draw out reins to desired length and thickness but stop when you're 1/2"-1" away from boss. (mine are 12-14" and terminate at 3/8" round) Isolate 1" sq draw out and round the edges of this section just enough that you can get a clean 1/4 turn/twist Now you need to chase and forge down the ridges left by the twist be careful to avoid cold shuts while roughly squaring this up you can see these are still only roughed out, don't get carried away here yet Isolate your boss but only set down 3/4-2/3 again don't get carried away Forge the opposing corners into the boss, let the boss upset a bit Bend backwards just after the boss, say 30deg kinda nip the backside of the bend, this helps tighten the bend and I believe it helps reinforce the bend as well Bend the remaining 2/3rds forward and nip the back again Forge your nib into the swage I skipped a pic here but before opening up the boss take a heat and tweak the angle of your reins so the nibs kind of line up with the inside of the reins and bend the nibs backward a scooch as seen in the next pic, don't focus to hard on the angle as you can adjust that once the rivet is set and you're hot fitting to stock size. I put a 1/2" slit inline with the boss, punched out the rag, drifted to 1/2" then used the punch to countersink to 9/16" (the 1/2" rivet will go in easier when hot and then upset itself to the 9/16" Check alignment with a cold rivet Set your rivet but don't finish it yet and then with the tongs laying on their side tap the jaws back and forth at the second bend to center the offset (if that makes sense) Offset centered Heat the jaws and boss, grab your desired stock and clamp the nibs in a vise and then squeeze your reins together to the desired spacing. Pay attention to where your reins are in relation to the jaws, you want them adjusted so the stock is inline and centered between the reins. (this is where the nibs get their final tweak as you clamp them in the vise) This may take more than one heat to get them where you want them but once there finish peening your rivet at heat and work the tongs open and closed to keep everything tight but moving freely. BOOM done easy as that (When it comes to hot fitting the tongs and adjusting the reins just do this the same as any other tongs (I'm struggling with how to explain this part)) One of the hardest lessons I learned when making any style tong is to never finish any one part until you know you won't be touching it at heat again. Take the section between the nibs and boss, if you finish that section 100% before isolating your boss then every time you straighten or tweak it you will be getting thinner and thinner. Same goes for that section of the reins that blends into the boss, if you finish that last 1" and then go back later to work on your boss you may find that section has been set down too far and you're left with a week spot. In short try and have each aspect complete at the same time as the others......
  23. I think I have seen those up here, if I build another brick forge I'll definitely look for those again. It's sure is fun to see the look on peoples faces when you give them a good reference of the heat we're creating, a lot of people don't really get it when they think of hot steel by itself but their eyes really pop when you explain that your forge is hotter than is needed to cremate a dang body if built right .
  24. Well said and thanks again. Next I am going to take a crack at your burner, not that I want to replace mine but I just like building these things it makes me feel like a mad scientist