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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Trevor84

  1. Trevor84

    First tongs

    Not saying you need it but here's a blow by blow I put together last year.
  2. Trevor84

    First tongs

    Hey J, 165 deg steak on those tongs they were my first projects as well, you can't do nothin if you can't hold that hot metal. 5hrs is just fine! When I forge tongs they are usually from 3/4 to get the meat in the boss buuuuut I haven't got to welding reins so I spend the most time drawing and symetrisizing the reins. Having the reins flex different than one another tends to torque out the nibs/jaws and you fight to keep things inline especially if you get them a bit warm. The knife speaks to me, at first glance it seems odd to have the tang come that far out but on second glance it is quite elegant and I bet that would fit nice when you choke up on it for slicing and dicing (in the kitchen) Maybe it's an Asian pattern..... I like it no matter what
  3. Those links are straight to the pdf downloads so if you click on it don't be surprised if it starts downloading
  4. It appears that I left out half of the thought. That's exactly what I was trying to say aparantly I stopped halfway through the thought.... It's brought up here often so I wasn't surprised when he tried discourag me. The more a person learns about the stuff that makes up the refractory and how to read the data sheets the easier it is to start seeking out new products. There's this pdf floating around Google from Morgan Thermal Ceramics called the refractory handbook or something. It has the data sheets for all their products and has them categorized by type as well as good descriptions at the beginning of each line of product's explain their properties and applications. I don't know if I am allowed to post the web link to it though. If it needs to be edit out I'll gladly do it. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.mha-net.org/docs/Harbison%20Walker%202005%20Handbook.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjRm-qjlpXxAhUQu54KHU6pDZ8QFjACegQIEhAC&usg=AOvVaw080BetQ2ggzPyE1nth4YeM That is a HarbisonWalker pdf I just found, I haven't had a chance to read it but it looks informative. Hopefully these li k's to get me in trouble https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.morganthermalceramics.com/media/7699/morgan-advanced-materials_thermal-ceramics-product-data-book-e-version_2.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj838Hgl5XxAhWPxZ4KHe0KDKQQFjAAegQIHRAC&usg=AOvVaw16kGQxha_xxZAZj6K6oYHz
  5. Well JM that is impressive like is often discussed here the rep I talked to in the past about unicast swore it would not hold up in less than 3" pours. I figured it should work the same as mizzou for a hot face because they're quite similar but I would not have expected a 1.5" brick to hold up to a drop like that, I've split 1.5" clipper dropping it before. 10 min warm up ain't bad, it looked like you have it fairly thick in there. I do have a container of ITC 100HT, it's finally come down in price $70cad at princess auto. I also have a bag of zirconia flour to play around with and compare. Thanks for taking the time for the review ☺ What you describe with the flame dancing on the floor is how a couple of my forge burner combos work, once the interior starts to flow the flame slowly gets closer and closer to the flame port. One forge in particular I don't use a flare or nozzle just the mixing tube into the 2" port, there's enough pressure that when hot the flame is literally at the edge of the port basically leaving a cold black spot inside where the burner port is. Hard to take a pic of that.
  6. Hmmm equally important is to read the entirety of something if you want to learn, Doh. Thanks pnut
  7. Oh me oh my I do like the idea of these, what a simple way to add independent control with less bits than adding multiple basic needle valves. Tapping the out I get but do you modify the in? The one in this pic is m10*1 in and out do you cut new threads on the in side for 1/4" plumbing or are you using an adapter? Thanks for this tip Mikey
  8. Juicemiser, 1 month down the road, do you have any updates? I just ordered a bag of this Uni-Cast 2800 as well and wondering if there's anything you'd do different next time? When it comes to the flame..... It's a "Frosty Tee" I tend to get thrashy tips to the flames like that and the extra orange in the exhaust flames could be from the calcium burning off the refractory (iirc). I do believe there is some tuning to do, the greeny blue flame = fuel rich this is also supported by the excess blue in the exhaust flames. I assume by now you have figured this out in other posts, if not then we need more pics and specs of the burner.... Frosty is obviously the one that knows best on his flames Great thinking with the inflate-A-form I've been thinking of doing something similar but with spray foam if I ship one.
  9. Wow that went sideways! It took me awhile to figure out how to source material over in BC. What search terms to use what to look for in products that have a different name etc. Now I know that if you can get ahold if a guy in one of the shipping warehouses they can usually hook you up with something. Just like that unicast. If all I could get was the unicast I'd just go with it. It will armour your wool you just got to make a bit hotter of a burner etc. Tge last random stuff I grabbed was called kalakast adtech at or something..... 60 percent alumina dense castable but has a bit of agragate. Anyway so far so good, it just doesn't heat up like the kast-o-lite. FWIW
  10. Since covid refractory suppliers are getting shorted as a lot of the product comes from the US. Search for PSH pottery supply house they sell k2600 HS "high strength" I haven't used them. This company also sells high alumina kiln shelves as well as Bentonite and zircopax I have not attempted a wash yet though. Keep in mind when you look at the k2600 in cad it's like 12 bucks with conversion you aren't too much more expensive than US. span widgpan widgetC
  11. No ya I remembered incorrectly I had remembered you had said something about them but got speed stuck in my head instead flow and resistance. So I remembered something that you didn't say. Ya now see I put this together for Facebookers though, you are thinking about it so this is like Frosty's 3/4"x8 not Mikey's 7/8"x9 (I've seen them go back and forth over that) Ratios for different sized burners correct. EZ burner .75x2 = 1.5 so 1 1/2" to 3/4". My 3/4 Mikey has 3 openings 1/2"x1"x3 gives me 1 1/2" total opening. Same goes for the orifice depth, I thought it was Mikey a few years ago that said it was .5 x the id of mix tube or it was 3/8" above the throat which is give or take that .5xid. All the burners I have had success with tend to use this depth.
  12. I never thought about it in this way but said that way I get a good visual, like if it was water instead of air it would swirl just like a toilet. I had envisioned it like two waves slamming straight at each other and tumbling down the mixing tube side by side but nature doesn't work like that. Something has to give and once it does it continues towards the path of least resistance in this case that is chasing it's self down the mixing tube.......... At least that's what my brain thinks it's seeing I haven't tried contemplating volume yet, I love math but I am not good at figuring out what I am trying I am trying to calculate. I reference the surface area of the intake's opening/mouth but I am guessing I am saying this wrong. That reference is just based off the measurements taken off the main burners out there. You often see "that guy" with the 12" mixing tube with a 3/4"-1 1/4" reducer for a flare, 2"-1" reducer for the intake then 1"-3/4" bushing ("that's all the had") and then they have the orifice jammed into the throat and wonders why it's not working. If you tell this guy he needs to start over he ends up hooking a blow dryer to it and perpetuates the BS builds. If I throw numbers at him so he can pretend he's making I up as he goes, he basically ends up with something close enough to a real burner that he sticks with the craft and doesn't run around calling some blow dryer mash up a Frosty T.
  13. Shall I call you Phil? You are right on the money, it's like you were standing over my shoulder watching me curse.
  14. The first time I tried the ball peen idea was back in the beginning before I realized how much steel shrinks as it cool and got the peen too deep and the dang flare locked on. I had to cut it off and put a nik in the side of the peen it doesn't affect anything but it bugs me.
  15. The surface area of the intake's opening be it linear or ejector, add up the area of both sides of Frosty's T or Mikey's burner they are similar I believe at least last time I added it up IIRC
  16. Mikey, I was just reading back over the discussions regarding printer nozzles and I think I remembered something AFB was talking about incorrectly wen I mentioned speed. AFB, I kinda put this together as a trouble shoot for guy's that have botched up someone's design not to actually build a custom from scratch so I would be sharing it with someone that already has an rough idea. With regards to my math on the nozzle is a typo should read "OD" which is what Mikey's step nozzle works out to with the. When it comes to the overhang I thought that's basically where Ron Reil says to start on his ABANA site. (I know that you know a LOT more than I so please understand that I am not arguing just trying to understand, I can almost guarantee that I will never be giving attitude or what not.) When it comes to my very loose vague math I have based these off of the main stream burners. If you take the area of the intakes on all the burners they are all quite similar are they not? Orifice depth in throat on the Mikey, Sidearm, Reil with the mig tip and even the Frosty mod. I totally understand how much some burners can be and I am definitely not trying to re-invent the wheel or anything, I have been rereading these threads for the last 3 years so I know better than that. Like you say take something like Larry's Z burner it falls out of my intake calculation with what I believe is a 1" wye with a busing to 3/4, this would be smallest intake opening surface area but this is probably because of how it flows or the original EZ burner's orifice depth is outside of my calculation too. Then there's burners like the Oliver, Atlas, Hybrid etc I am over on FB a lot trying to help where/when I can, so I guess my knowledge level is somewhere between here and there if you will Does it make more sense in that context? hack to the flare 3/4"sch40, 1"x1" sch20, 1 1/4"x2" sch80. slit the 1" tap and set screw will expand the spacer to lock the nozzle in place. there is 1 1/2" from the end of the spacer to the end of the nozzle itself this just represents the step nozzle
  17. Morning folks, I put this together as an article on a facebook page I am on. I have tried to compile and compact some of the basics that I have gathered creeping all your conversations in these threads. I am leery to ask for a critique buuuuuut I guess I should get an opinion from the people I stolearned it from. ***Build a burner with math*** This isn’t exact but loose parameters to start with when troubleshooting a burner some dude on YouTube “dEsIgnEd”. The measurements used by the previous gen were used based on a lot of trial and error along with studying the more technical sciencey side of what makes a burner work the way “we” need them to. I won’t drag out how’s and why’s here but here’s a basic cheat sheet. If you look at the main atmospheric burner designs (by the original designers) you will find a lot of similarities or "rule of thumbs" to get the most out of your burner. The particular design of the burner and it's environment affects the ratios of these obviously but it is a place to start especially if you're trouble shooting a burner that you wung it on. (3/4" Burner) Mig tip: .030 .033, .035 (+8 for apx actual opening) .038, .041, .043 etc 3d print nozzles 0.8mm, 0.9mm, 1.0mm sold in exact size, .9mm = .9mm. (these create a higher speed jet than the mig tips due to the shape inside) Intake: 1.5-2 x ID of mixing tube Orifice depth from throat: .5 x ID of mixing tube Mixing tube length: 8-9 x ID of mixing tube Nozzle: 1/8" over mixing tube size 1" ID, apx 1 1/4" past end of mixing tube Flare: is a 1:12 and 1 1/14" past mixing tube about the same as the straight nozzle but "flared" (roughly) Make your flare/nozzle adjustable so that you can adjust the overhang by sliding and locking with a set screw while tuning in your forge. **don't get hung up on PSI, it's only relative to YOUR burner**. Or something like that
  18. Hey Mikey and all, sorry I'm a lurker and chat with you all that much. Anyway, Mikey I started calling +8 when reading mig tips. I see that I'm close, close enough for a good starting point when planning out a burner. ☺
  19. I would however all of them shipping distance only. I am getting to know a couple of them over the phone though.
  20. I will definitely update once I try out this Kalakast. Yes there are some crazy refractories out there, HWI, URC, Morgan thermal, allied minerals, vesuvius and that's just the name not the products. Most of these companies make their own stuff like bubbly alumina mizzou etc. The problem is finding a supplier that happens to either stock it like the basic kalakast, unicast, loucast, house brand or get lucky and happen to call when they have a partial pallat of specialty refractory. These guys have it made up in pallets and it only has about a 6mth commercial life so the stuff gets custom ordered, if you're lucky you have a shipper that's willing to sneak a 55# bag out of a 5ton order if you get him at the right time. I'm not able to post a link but if you use some Google foo you should be able to find the "Harbison Walker 2005 refractory handbook" it's not really brand specific and gives a run down of different refractories.
  21. Paul I'm interested in how this works out for you if you buy it. I bought a box of wool from Inproheat and got talked out of the unicast for the same reason, I should have grabbed it though it looks like it'd work. I'm going to try this Kalakast product, I'm told it's basically mizzou but more alkali resistant, maybe tough against flux....... Rep says they use it in the crematorium incinerators a lot. Here's the breakdown of kalakast and mizzou, they're also similar to the unicast. You can get kalakast for around $70 cad a bag from a HWI outlet/warehouse.
  22. I guess I could see that flange being a bit sloppy...... Twas just an image that popped in my head. Anyway yes the locking nut seems the best idea. I found a pipe chart so I'm heading to the plumbing store tomorrow to gather a few more bits. Thanks guys for your patience I'll update if I have success
  23. I was thinking of being able to lock the burner in the forge so doesn't rotate. Now say the threaded 1/8" fuel jet accelerator stays stationary, like it can't turn. Now the piece I am envisioning would be like a nut that can turn on a flange that would welded to the outside of the T. This way you can adjust the nut and move the accelerator in and out without removing the burner from the forge. Obviously this is frivolous, it's just something rolling around in my head. Please if that is still confusing just disregard this. I am having a hard time putting it into words. Haha I found it, a swivel flange nut . Weld the flang to the end of whatever style of burner and then just turn the nut in and out for micro adjustments of the jet.
  24. Hey Frosty, I'm not sure how I confused things I was talking about two different things...... Yes using a jam nut will lock the jet in position whether it's in a T like the last pic or through a threaded bushing in another design. I then was asking about the step nozzle and which sizes of pipe were used So I was asking about the carb then the exaust. When I was talking further about adjusting, I can't really describe what I was/am thinking about and in the end it's not necesary.
  25. Ok thanks that explains it I think. I kept using varying lengths and combos of the 1" black pipe and the 1 1/4" black pipe and kept fixating on needing to use standard pipe nipples and not other combinations. Now I'm going to see if I can get some schd 80 1 1/4" it, in theory it should only take a bit if grinding to get a tight fit.
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