Jeff Bly

I was just asking someone that same question today, but he did not know the answer. From the saying "there's a monkey on your back"? or, "quit monkeying around"?

Hey Matt, sure, I would love to come by and check it out and see your set-up. I'll PM you with more.

Somebody I am talking to is trying to sell an anvil and he says he thinks it says Fisher Morris on it. Is this a decent anvil? Would this be the correct name?

Mine says: Peter Wright Patent Solid Wrought and the numbers 1 2 and either 6, a 0, or C. Its hard to read. The only other numbers I can find are on the feet on the front 2 and 2. Anyone care to comment?

Sask Mark, I ordered the book a few days ago and I am waiting for it to come. I'm kind of excited because they let me have the author inscribe it to me personally. Thomas, that makes a lot of sense. Thank you for that bit of insight. I will give that a whirl, or rather a bounce.

I'm beginning to get the sense, and please correct me if I am wrong, that the rebound of the hammer blow is in relation to the hardness of the face of the anvil. For example; Harder = More Rebound = Better. Is that Correct?

But what makes the Hay Budden special/unique? What makes this particular anvil stand out above others? I've also heard people mention the Trenton as being a pretty good anvil.

I found these last night while insomnia (iForgeIron) got the best of me: YouTube - The Brake Drum Forge YouTube - Building the Brake Drum Forge I start welding school in three weeks. I know what I'm building!;)

If you want new, check this out: Forged Anvils - RIDGID I'm just a newbie here, so consider what you read. I came across this when buying my Anvils in America book today.

Maybe an anvil the same size and shape of your cut out on top of the angled flatstock next to the scroll work?

suspend it by two chains (one on each side) from flat stock with a 90 degree bend with scroll work joining the 90 degree angle. That's my take on it anyway.

So how did that sign come out? I'm curious.

Frosty, I'm hopelessly hooked as it is and I haven't even got a forge yet. So what was so special about the Hay Budden that everyone is talking about? I don't meen to stir up a bees nest with my ignorance. Just curious because I don't know if I'm going to have to save the box tops off my cereal boxes to buy one.

Tom, Element, it seems to me you both got it going on. So what's the trick to use the heat of the forge to heat your shop and not have all that heat go right up the flue? I'll put in a heater or stove if I have to, but I want to keep as much space as I can. Also why use more fuel to heat, which relates to more cost?

That's pretty cool. Congrats on those hammers.

Doubt the floor can take much more. Watch where you step! Where does someone come across that many anvils of that variety? Blacksmith strike? 1 of each please?

I just read a piece on scaling (rust) and the author spoke of using linseed oil. Quote "First rub the steel using a cloth soaked in linseed oil. Then bring it to the fire to warm the piece up. The oil will carburize. Remove from the heat and rub down the steel again then set aside to cool. Wipe off Excess oil and the piece should remain rust free for some time. He goes on to say, "The same can be done with beeswax, but for a more effective combination, use a combination of linseed oil and beeswax. Heat up the oil and flake the wax with a knife. Stir until all wax is melted. Apply the same way as suggested for the oil alone." He recommends using 6 cubic inches of beeswax to 1 quart of linseed oil. However the proportions are really not critical and adjust the quantities used until you are satisfied with the outcome.

I would check with a local museum. They should be able to identify it a little better perhaps. Besides, it could be worth more as is than to make it into something else. Just an idea.

Ya gotta love biased opinions!:)

I did a search on this and the threads I came across seem kind of murky to me. What makes one brand better than the next? I hear people talk about a Peter Wright or some other and I want to know the difference between each. So what are the top anvils to go for and why? What are we looking for in an anvil?:confused: Please try and touch on all the points please. Thanks.

I never thought of it that way. So in some sense it's not necessarily the hammer, but how you use it? You can force the metal in the direction you want no matter the peen, yes?

But is it an issue once the coal has thoroughly dried out?

How is LPS applied? Is it a spray or does it come in a can? And what size quantities are available. I've been straightening up my garage all afternoon and I can't seem to locate my 2 cans of WD-40.

Question, what is the best way to treat steel/iron tools to keep them from rusting? I currently have a bunch of my tools soaking in old used motor oil. That was something my grandfather used to do. His tools might have looked dirty, but never rusted. I ran across someone today that said I should use mineral oil instead. What's best for my tools?

Is it just a matter of texture that you are trying to obtain with ones individual hammer, or is there a specific reason to use different style peens such as the straight, diagonal, ball, flat, etc.?