lyuv

Never would have thought of that technique myself. Thanks! However (not diminishing anything), an option for a square outside corner would be nice too. I remember a video of making a square bend in a square bar (sorry, don't remember by whom). The idea was to first OVER bend the bar - to 180deg. Upset the metal from the thickened inside bend toward the outside bend. Then open the bend to 90deg (or whatever). Now you have extra metal on the exterior, that can be formed to a nice square corner. I wonder if the same can be used with a flat.

If you are serious about it, I suggest you contact the park authority and propose a copper production demonstration for the visitors. You can study the proceess (YouTube knows it all), and have the park join you with a group of visitors (like school or boy scouts) for a day project. You"ll get acceess to mine ore, build a smelting furnace and fire it. Great experience.

AZBL - I can offer 2 advices: 1. Do try to find a way to experience blacksmithing. Like a class. Not just observe. I was watching blacksmithing for years and went on to build a smithy. The first time I swung a hammer was after the smithy was built and done, and I found it was NOT what I imagined. 2. Your working place needs to be ventilated, and yet sound proof or distant enough from neighbours/family. Be sure you have proper location before you commit.

Welcome. I"m no expert on the subject, so consider what I write accordingly. Charcoal was used extensively to heat homes in the arab vilages around here (Israel). There WERE CO disasters, but they numbered roughly "only" one a year. So I assume it takes special conditions to get CO poisioning (restricted burning and restricted ventilation for long enough time). Also - charcoal is used all over the world for cooking and heating. Many times indoors. I never heard of a "common knowledge" that it must be used outdoors, or "beware of breathing it's fumes" (mind you, co can exist outdoors too) I think that free air supply to the forge and reasonable ventilation, will keep you safe.+ Mod note: If you are not experienced or sure of this why are you posting.here, that is dangerous

I do it just like Stormcrow wrote. BUT - I"m no expert on the subject, and didn"t experiment with this method. I just follow what I heard and my common sense. It may be part superstition, part poor science and part good practice. I have no idea how far can you bend this way before the COD (crack of death). Or even if it's significantly better than bending cold. Needs to be tested.

Learned a nice trick (here, of course...): Use the 3 points system, and apply pressure gradualy at tempering temperature. I tighten the c clamp a little every 10-20 minutes, untill there is a slight "over-bend". Let it cool enough to hold before releasing the pressure. Worked for me several times. Always the same struggle with myself: re-treat of risk straightening?

I did it with a hand hammer, and never again. It's a LOT of work. Mainly stretching that billet again and again after each fold. And all "just" for the aesthetics. I"m glad I did it, and I encourage you to. It's a great project and "badge". But know that it take plenty of elbow grease. If you can afford the steel and time, I say go for it. Just be sure to keep checking the integrity of your welds, like by hitting on the diamond. Start with at least double the steel you need. Thick plates and thick billet are your friends. The first weld, of the multiple thin layers, is the hardest.

Thanks. First, it's good to know it's not just me or my mistakes. Indeed I found the edge angle makes a great difference. I re-tempered at 250. It's less brittle. enough to have the same 10deg edge, but with much smaller chips and a very sharp edge.

I got this steel from Wirtz Achim Germany. He is a renowned metalsmith and speciality steel producer (I think he uses other factories to manufacture to his specifications). This is "his" steel, so no standard tempering info, but I did get short reference from him by mail, saying to do as I did (quench in oil. temper temp). I probed the blade's edge under microscope. When applying pressure, it breaks like glass and does not bend. Will tempering at higher temp help? that is, without loosing much of the hardness. Thanks,

This is what the chipping looks like. The bright (secondary) bevel is about 2mm wide.

Hi all, Made a blade from 125sc steel. Quenched in canola oil and tempered (twice) at 200c-220c (390f-430f). The problem - as I sharpen the blade, it chipps. Just from sharpening. It happens with fine whetstones, using an angle guide (10deg). Along all the blade. Note: before the hardening heating (with 5 minuts soak), I made several cycles of heat to orange and cool to black. This was suggested to me to achieve a black finish ("curo uchi"). could this cycling be the reason? I have not fixes handle yet, so I can re-temper, if there is a point. Would like your thoughts on that as well. 125sc is a pure high carbon (1.25%) steel with significant manganese content. The quench media and tempering temperature were suggested by the manufacturer. Thanks,

I MUST use glove on my hammer hand, because I keep getting a xxxx blister. Could'nt find any other solution. I use a glove made of some kind of rubbery cloth. It's tight on the hand, so nothing gets inside, and it gives reasonable "feel". True, there is a risk that if you touch something hot, the glove will retain the heat (been there done that...). So I keep a "mental awarness" to instantly plunge the hand in the water barrel in such accident. When working close to a very hot piece (like forge welding, or chiseling) I cant bear the radiated heat, and must wear heavy welding gloves. When I took blacksmithing class, there where wonderfull asbestos gloves for this.

This is a strange mourning – for a blacksmith who died, yet the man is still breathing. A year ago, a friend offered me to partner in building a hobby smithy in his farm yard. Thus, a dream and fantasy of 50 years was realised. This past year I discovered a great new passion, and actualy saw an exciting new path for the rest of my life – family, job and blacksmithing. It's way more than a hobby: It's a craft, a source of amusment and education for all (especially kids) and a belonging to a community. A great spice for life. Now that friend decided to break the partnership (the smithy is on his property), and the door to blacksmithing was slammed in my face. Just like that. The blacksmith within died in my arms in the course of a phone call. This is not a post about searching for alternatives. I know MY options, and short of a miracle, I will not swing a hammer in this life time. Just wanted to share my pain with people who will understand the loss.

I"m a newbie, but I did manage to get from exactly what you experienced, to several welded blades (pattern and san-mai). So here are my 2 cents: 1. Sounds like your fluxing isn't good enough. The borax gets between the plates only when it melts, and it take a good heat for that. Flux as you did, and make sure the borax melts. Heat the steel again and flux some more all around. After each hammering session, flux more. 2. If you use coal forge, note that the coal may brush the un-melted borax off your piece, as you push it into the forge. You may want to toast the piece in the flames first - marshmelow style. 3. Heat loss is your enemy - move fast from forge to anvil with hammer in hand. minimum contact with anvil. thicker material ect.

Thanks. I understand that it’s possible to use wrought iron for the clad. I still wonder why isn’t it MORE in use, since it has a distinct and quite nice looks. Somewhat like Damascus. What am I missing?

Got my hands on some wrought iron (VEEEERY hard to get around here), and I"m considering making a san-mai blade of it (Nakiri), for the looks. I have no experience with wrought iron, so I googled for such blades, and found almost none. Therefore I wonder if this is a misguided idea?

The one hammer grip that I made is octagonal, and I LOVE it. I think the flats "releave" pressure" from the right spots. General shape is like the japanese knife handles - large side flats. medium top and bottom and the other 4 are smaller. Uniform tapper.

Hi all, I"m just a newbie blacksmith, but my "products" are starting to get around. So I was thinking of having a punch to mark them with a unique symbol/logo (not designed yet). How can I go about making/getting such a punch?

Hi all, This is a blade in work. Made of chainsaw blade and air. The chain was forge welded into a billet. Streched and folded once. Apperently, I have cracks issue. I guess it's bad welds. For various reasons, I REALY want to salvage this blade. I was thinking of filling the cracks with silver solder. What do you say? Did anyone try this? I know that generaly, metal to be soldered/brazed, need to be clean. There is no way to clean oxidation from inside these cracks. Is that a deal breaker? Any ideas or pointers? (just a note - the cracks penetrate no more than half way through the blade's thickness) Thanks,

I like short answers . But as a wise man quated: "For every problem there is an answer that is simple, elegant and wrong" Per you suggestion, I do use oil (olive oil), when the knife is stored. But in use it's no good. Either the oil is rubbed off, or the oxidants penetrate it (onion and garlic being the worst). Anyway, a combination of: light mustard treatment, oil protection and reduced pettiness seems to be the optimum. Thanks. Love this forum.

I dont mind patina. I do think it adds character. But the patinas I have seen so far are a more-or-less uniform. An evenly distributed shades. Sort of like damascus. If you guys think these spots will develop, over time, to a more full and even coverage - I"m satisfied

Hi all, Just finished this knife. Made of CARBON steel (O1). Coming of the grinder, the finish was bright and nice, and I want to keep it as UNIFORM as possible. The problem - as soon as I started using it (in the kitchen), it got stains. Seen in the picture on the bevel (and more since, all over). I guess it's some kind of oxidation. Is there a surface treatment I can do to help prevent this? Preferably keeping the brightness. Grayish is ok. Just not bluing. Thanks,

Hi all, A buddy and me made 2 damascus blades. One etched in vinager and the other in FC. After a short time of very moderate kitchen use (cutting and gentle washing), the colors are almost gone. Re-etching works, but is that the norm? I expected the colors to be forever (short of polishing).

Hi all, I like that look on a knife. But I have concerns applying it: 1. The metal moves and "compresses" under the hammer blows. Will the blade bend/twist like when forging the bevel? 2. Does this introduces stress into the steel, that might cause cracks or deformations later? (especialy during heat treatment) 3. How about applying the hammered finish COLD (before hardening)? It's easier (sort of), but will it do harm? Any advice on technique will be appreciated. thanks,

I had exactly the same experience several times. I always thought a spark or something got in my eye without me noticing. But now there is a new possibility - an IR induced eye damage!!! Is there a doctor in the crowd?