BeaverNZ

Alan There was just over 3 cu meters or nine tons, I was going to mix it myself and barrow it in but a builder mate ruined my day about a week ago and told me that I had to have premix for consistancy and I also got a water proofing additive put in the concrete and the pump was to speed it up and get it placed faster, The boxing didnt move at all I was a bit worried that the uplift may break my floor Cheers

Today I got the concrete poured And its a relief to have it all done as I was worried about the boxing failing or some thing going wrong but its all gone well, Its been about a weeks work to do all the boxing reinforcing and all day today to set it up and do the pour. Another step closer to green button day though that will be a while got to play catchup at work to pay for it all wait for concrete to cure rehash boxing for the inertia block pour that etc etc Phew its beer oclock and it tastes good

Hey small world when it comes to tractors LOL I think there are more possums here in NZ than in Aust used to really enjoy shooting and skinning them when I was a kid and some of my mates used to have lots of traps and made good pocket money selling the pelts. I hope to put concrete in the hole maybe tomorrow finally got the reinforcing finished last night and now the forklift just lifts it. i worked out that there will be just over 11 tons of lift with the surface area of the bottom so I have got almost 5 tons of weight to put in or on the liner to help hold it and I am bolting it down to the floor as well will post more pics soon Cheers Beaver PS hope this goes well or you may hear me swearing in Aust.

Thanks guys all coments duelly noted i have spent the last few days working on the boxing, Have to keep thinking about the green button day Its been alot of work so far calling in lots of favors and owing some as well will post more pics soon Cheers Beaver

Hi Alan and Kozzy Thanks for that info I have access to mobile 10 ton cranes from some of the local engineering shops that I have worked at in the past for free or little cost which is great, Havent thought about stall matting but I can get lots of conveyor belting but I think I will want thicker belt to save trying to double up thicknesses. My hammer is a two piece one and the anvil still has what looks like Teco shock absorbing matt under it so will use that. I am casting steel into the bottom of the pit for the isolation materail to bear on or for me to use to attach/weld any locating guides for the ineria block to sit on its turned into quite a project but Im comitted now so have to finish it. The last photo is the liner to go into the pit to cast the sides and the first pic is what will be the steel floor cast into the bottom. Cheers Beaver

Alan I intend to have a 20mm gap all the way around the sides and 100mm under the ineria block, My current thought is to use probably conveyor belt because Im cheap and the proper stuff is $2200 so if it dosnt work I can still lift it all out and fit the proper pads. Yes I have found water damit though it only gets about 250 deep and I have got some product that goes between the concrete and ground that forms a moisture proof barrier, The bottom of the pit floor the concrete will be 350mm thick and the sides will be 100mm and lots of reinforcement.This is flying by the seat of my pants so i am taking pics as I go so for better or worse I will put them up Cheers Beaver PS I have looked again for your hammer install stuff and cant find any thing.

Here is a photo of my press I made about 12 years ago its 2000mm between posts and 1850 from floor to underside of top beam. it has a 18hp 3 ph electric motor and 600mm ram stroke, If you want see it forging 5/8 or 16mm rivets have a look at Engineering Excel face book page I have tried three times to load the vid but it times out when almost finished.

Thanks Alan I have been keeping a close eye and spent alot of time looking at every thing I can find on the subject asking any body i can contact even contacted John at massey hammers but its been over nine mths and no more further contact so i just doing the best I can though this is alot more work one good thing is if I want the hammer could be sold with an ineria block this way and im left with a service pit. I have neighbours one house being about 40 meters away and more about 100 plus meters away so thats another. I hope to be pouring my concrete this week doing the boxing today

The last two photos are my highly detailed and accurate plans. The first is the hammer drawn out at full size to work out the required hights of everything leaving 1 inch of travel with the tupp touching the anvil. And the second is detail of the ineria block with the hammer mounted up 135 mm so I dont end up like a hunchback with a slipped disc. Does any body have any Ideas or input of what I am doing? Cheers Beaver

I have started digging the hole for my Massey inslide hammer I am going for a two piece foundation so first I am making a concrete lined pit will a separate inerta block that will be on some form of isolation system that I havent decided on yet I have been toying with the idea of using shortened truck leaf springs as these arent a very efficent type of spring or have alot of natural dampening so will be less likely to start bouncing or some kind of captured rubber maybe urethane The last two photos are my highly detailed and accurate plans. The first is the hammer drawn out at full size to work out the required hights of everything leaving 1 inch of travel with the tupp touching the anvil. And the second is detail of the ineria block with the hammer mounted up 135 mm so I dont end up like a hunchback with a slipped disc

Thomas I am not sure what the Breaker/jack hammer bits are but ive turned them on the lathe in the past and they werent just a carbon steel they seemed to be a very tough type of steel but time will tell post heat treatment I was given a whole lot from a local hire place that i fix things for these will be factory original parts more than likely. Cheers Beaver

I have been getting a bit done on my kukri made from concrete breaker bit and large bandsaw blade so it should be S7 and L6 or maganese steel with should go grey when etched and nickle which should go silver when etched. As with and used steel you dont know what it really is but so far is true to adveratising, this was etched in boiling white vinegar. Its not heat treated yet so hope it doesnt crack. This is my first pattern welded blade though I have done several cable damascus blades.

The Crank and its crankcase is from an old engine you can see where the cylinder used to be good repurposing

I have got the fabrication of my tank all finished

Very nice Yes the split window was what I was meaning. our roads are a bit average at times as well though we dont have any frost heave to deal with, lots and lots of gravel roads which were alot of fun to fang around on when i used to be young and stupid

Hi Frosty Wrong file I wondered why it took so long to work just thought it was my conection, The 58 vette is that the one with the two piece rear window they are real nice Cheers Beaver

Heres a pic of my 48 chev truck it runs the blown 327 small block and 5 sp. I like the early vettes tho I would really like a willys coupe done as a gasser the ford pop on website was a paying job made some headers for it and fitted vented disc brakes to front ive got dissilusioned with website and havent updated for about a year I have an Engineering Excel face book page instead WP_20151214_17_35_49_Pro.mp4

Yes sounds like we are tared with the same brush My 48 chev runs a blown 327 and 5sp tremec Ive had it for over 28 years bulit it myself,

Frosty Here are some other pics first my unfinished wheel made out of an old tyre tube patch vulcaniser I got from the local recycling centre for $20 next is My 100 ton hyd press which I made about 10 years ago its 2000 between the posts the biggest in town but not the gruntiest next is a post anvil that i made to sell but no takers it was $110 and then My massey hammer got that for $500 at an auction complete with motor switch gear etc Cheers Beaver So many projects and not enough time Frosty if you like have have a look at my website engineeringexcel.co.nz Cheers

Frosty Here are some other pics first my unfinished wheel made out of an old tyre tube patch vulcaniser I got from the local recycling centre for $20 next is My 100 ton hyd press which I made about 10 years ago its 2000 between the posts the biggest in town but not the gruntiest next is a post anvil that i made to sell but no takers it was $110 and then My massey hammer got that for $500 at an auction complete with motor switch gear etc Cheers Beaver So many projects and not enough time

Im buliding a HL 500 replica and this is the fuel tank as its being made, I have been side tracked a bit as i was researching forging conrods and rekindled an interest in knife making. I really like cable and pattern welded blades but as it happens i have come across a Massey inslise 2CWT power hammer which will be good i think to try to forge the conrod for the bike engine. I could buy one but its most of the fun is in the making and learning of the process and I am an engineer and this helps keep it fresh and challenging so it is sort of related to forging, My hammer is not installed yet but hope to start soon.

I am a welder by trade and have been doing for longer than I like to think,I used to use alot of CRC Brakeclean for degreasing aluminum for Tig welding till I realised that it breaks down with ultaviolet light even the stuff that has evaporated into the atmosphere of your workshop so please dont use this when welding is nearby. I now use Wurth brakeclean which is some type of alcohol which is safe. These brands may not apply except in Australia and new Zealand Cheers