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I Forge Iron


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About AnvilAntics

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    Near Ballaarat, Vic

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  1. Lovely looking bit of machining on your dies! It takes a fair bit of oomph to form the hot metal into such dies. Typically such items would be forged under much bigger hammers and/or presses than your 2cwt, but a Massey does have a great single blow. I would try to forge the billet, with fullers or if you have rounded pallets, as close as possible to the shape. Making sure not to leave any sharp edges at the transitions, ie between shank at big end. It will take a couple of practice runs, you will want to leave just enough material to fill your dies, without too much flash. If y
  2. My thoughts and condolences go out to his family and friends. Such an amazing character! His energy and passion were inspirational. I don't think I thanked him enough for all his help with Masseys, Alldays & Onions and even obscure things like manual oilers on Pilkington hammers..... Justin
  3. My apologies for the delay, I have not been back to get a proper image of the press in question. I have, however, found an old photograph of it, which I have attached. Any information about the maker would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Justin
  4. G'day All, Am looking at a friction screw press that is a long way from it's place of creation. It's currently residing in the southern hemisphere and I have very little information about it's origins. I took a photograph of the name/maker's plate (forgot to get one of the actual machine, but it is the usual configuration) and can make out the general inforation; stroke, rpm, lots of kg's, date and power requirements... The makers symbol is, however, my slumbling point. It looks to contain C, S, L, A and G, but my favourite search engines fail to bring up anything obvious to my
  5. Sorry for not replying earlier, am very sad that you are selling your hammer. I did not wish to make it seem difficult or expensive to install a hammer. There are so many different ways to do it, so many different scenarios and so many different outcomes. I was trying to describe what had worked best, in reducing transmission of vibration, for me in a couple of hammer installations. Below is a "back of the envelope" sketch of what has worked really well for me. Please note that it is not to scale and the space between the inertia block and the pit wall is not as big as sketche
  6. Hi Justin,

    Welcome fellow Australian. It's always good to see Australians pop up on this site.

    I see you are from Ballarat. Been there having a look at Sovereign Hill and the smithy there. Pretty impressive shop.

    There's a ghost town in Western Queensland called Ballara. It is said that it was supposed to be Ballarat but the the sign writer ran out of space. So Ballara it is.

    1. AnvilAntics


      Have been snooping for many years.

      I work at Sovereign Hill in the Wheelwright and Coachbuilding department, we have our own forge up there. All the horse drawn vehicles that we use there are made there. There are some videos of us hot tyring and timber bending on the Sovereign Hill social media page.

      You are up north? I have spent some time farm sitting in Jalatten, lovely part of the world


    2. ausfire


      Wow! You might be the guy who gave me one of those timber wheel hubs that you make on that machine in the wheelwright building.

      Your operation at Sovereign Hill is a lot more commercial than our heritage museum where I have my forge (www.historicvillageherberton) but we have a lot in common. I watched your blacksmith at work making fire tools and was very impressed with the steam set up you have there.

      And yes, we are in the far north of the state. I know Julatten well. Just an hour or so north of us on the way down to Port Douglas. Nice bit of country.

  7. Image from an early copy of the Australasian Coachbuilder and Wheelwright Journal. I stumbled across this one in Europe, but am unsure of it's origins. Have saved the best until last.........most of you will have seen this one previously. It is on heaps of Southern Hemisphere Calenders!
  8. Oh, it is also sometimes a good idea to include an option for a sump pump in the bottom of your inertia block hole. Learnt that one the hard way..... Justin
  9. Soils vary such a great deal, as does the amount of moisture that can be around....just to add some extra variability. So it can be difficult to provide you with the perfect antivibration solution. The above caveat out of the way, I'm a huge fan of using an isolated inertia block. Dig a big hole; put a reinforced slab in the bottom (35 MPa is good); put up some side walls that do not touch the edge of the bottom slab (this is to stop the surrounding soil from collapsing in); put some vibration mitigating matting on top of the slab; construct a suitable form for
  10. Who doesn't love ametuer concreting hour.......unless it is a bridge. I especially love the working height! As a retired second row forward I can appreciate raising the inertia block up an inch or two. On a serious note, it's looking great! Justin
  11. For Mr Evans, I am familiar with Daylesford, I'm about halfway between there and Ballaarat. Sorry I missed you. Sorry for the nocturnal wildlife disturbing your sleep AND sorry to Bevan for letting some clowns take them to NZ. Did you have Michael C. from Co. Wicklow do some work with you? Just to round off the Massey club...... I've got a 35 in the shed too. Great progress photos Bevan! Regards, Justin
  12. With the ability to be able to lift the inertia block out and back in, try whatever that is at hand. Was once told, by a vibration engineer, that strips of matting can often work better at reducing transmission than a one piece mat. When you reinforce the slab at the bottom of your hole, I think you said 350mm. Run two lots of reo, one near the bottom surface and the other near the top surface. Just works a little better than a single centred bit of reo in this application. It's ace that you've got the matting for under the anvil, that is a significant factor in having an eff
  13. Sorry for delay, sent info today. Loved the green tractor and trailer for removal of earth. Have fun, Justin
  14. Hello Justin 

    Thanks for your reply

    I am pretty much doing all you suggest it is a project that will probably take a year to complete though sooner would be better, I have to keep working for money as wife keeps wasting it on food and soap and stuff like that Cheers Beaver

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