Dave Hammer

As previously indicated.... you need an adjustable regulator. Most use a 0-30#. If you can't find one locally, Larry Zoeller sells them online from his website. The pressure you set it at will be dictated by how hot you want to run your forge and how efficient your forge is. Regarding propane tank sizes.... Although a large propane tank is desirable, you may not need one. How many burners does your forge have? How large is/are the burner(s)? If it has only one burner, generally a small tank will work fine (although when it gets low, the tank may freeze up). I frequently use small tanks. If it does start to freeze up, I put the tank in my water bucket. If your forge has more than one burner, you may need a larger propane tank (or not). If you already have a small tank, I would suggest to use it and see how it fits your needs. How long it will last is determined by the efficiency of your burner(s) and forge and how hot you run your forge. A well tuned, one burner forge will run several hours, at a good forging heat using a BBQ sized tank. Good luck with your new toy....

Kerry.... If I wasn't going to be in Indiana watching Steve, Clifton and Kurt at the IBA conference, I would have been there to see delivery (and your shop).

You're not wasting your time.... Practice is always helpful. It may not make a good knife though.. Find a piece of auto spring (leaf or coil) and you can make a useful knife...

Look here.... http://www.kramerusa.com/DrillTapChart.htm Print the chart out and keep it for future reference...

I have used the electrolytic process with great success on post vices (actually, on anything I want to de-rust)... If you are not familiar with this, just Google with "electrolytic derusting" as the search words. You will find several articles online that describe how to do it.... If you have a battery charger, it is safe, easy and works every time with little effort. The longer you leave the process working, the cleaner your vise will become. I use a large plastic trash can for the plastic container. Stand the vise up in the can and do half of it at a time. There is no problem with overlapping areas. I usually put "PAM", which is canola oil, on stuff when I am finished. Some type of finish needs to be put on as soon as you have cleaned the project, or it will immediately begin to rust. Good luck with your project...

Truely a beautiful hammer... Great job on the restoration.

Impressive design and execution....

I love seeing a work in progress... It's looking good..

Monstermetal... I noticed on the chat room last night you picked up that hammer. Did you get the boiler also?

I would suggest you have a conversation with Clay Spencer (even if it's just an email exchange) about your spring. Ask him what the spec are on the spring he uses in his workshops (stock diameter, spring diameter, length of spring, number of turns). I have always found him willing to share information and opinions... If your spring isn't suitable, your hammer will not work well...

Nice work!, but there is just one thing that is a little strange.... You gotta mess that floor up a bit. It's way too clean...

I know folks who do, but I wouldn't do it with any hammer. I believe it's hard on the hammer and hard on you. If they want cheap, send em to Walmart.

But... but.... but.... 781, it would have been such a neat addition to the estate sale.....

Richard Furrer.... I am interested in learning about the modification you made to unload the air compressor during startup on a Nazel. Could you provide a picture, diagram or sketch?

OF COURSE I burn myself.

No, it's not hot.... It just didn't take me long to look at it.

Thanks for sharing that idea...

Forgewelding Cable... Cut a piece about 8" long. Weld (arc or ?) the ends into a blob. Weld (arc or ?) a stick on one end to hold it with. Heat to red. Untwist (opens strands), flux generously, heat again... Twist (close) to hard. Heat to forgewelding temp, lightly tap, holding the cable in a round swage. Keep turning (turn in direction that will maintain twist) it while you forge weld until you have a solid mass. Numerous heats may/will be necessary. Flux often and generously.... Worked for me. Good Luck...

Glenn... If I recall correctly, I was told my 3B was built in 1929. The serial number is 1267. I haven't tried to chase any more history yet, but will later. A friend of mine bought it at a factory sale (not sure where) in Canada a few years ago. I bought it from him last summer and brought it home in pieces. I procrastinated for a few months about where it was going to be placed (I have a small shop), then decided to add to a canopy I have to house it. Part of the canopy will be able to be closed in (with shutters of some sort... later) for winter weather. It's my understanding that the orginal configuration of these hammers all had the geared flywheels, with a matching gear on the motor. Someone told me that some of the larger shops with multiple hammers would convert to belts to cut down on the shop noise. If my 3B was gear driven, the teeth on the flywheel have been machined off. It has three grooves ("C" belt width) cut into the flywheel. A custom pulley was made to match. Someone also drilled and tapped a place to install an eye bolt (temporary) for lifting it (thank you very much), which makes it easy to move around. My friend told me that the factory this hammer came out of had a HUGE (well equipped) machine shop, so I expect alterations were made there. The 3B had some problems when I brought it home. Some have been addressed, others will be later (after I get it working). I'm looking forward to playing with it. Tell us more about your 1B. I was fortunate enough to run across one of those also late last year (fluke... I wasn't looking for another hammer). It is still gear driven. I brought the 1B home, expecting it to be a long term restoration project, but was pleasantly suprised that I only needed to repair the ram guide, clean up a rusted ram and make dies for it. It's serial number is 1939. Bruce Wallace (Nazelhammers, on this forum) told me it was made in 1947 and first sold to the US Treasury department. Last service was at a TVA plant in Tennessee. I put up a short video of it in action on YouTube (search for djhammerd if you are curious about it). The second video is one I made while playing with a small utility air-hammer I made a while back when I was learning a little about repousse. I expect to put up more videos later. I live in Northern Virginia. Where are you located?

That tool has serious potential.... I suggest searching for a picture of the original configuration. Then you can decide if you want to ressurect it to its original form.... If there is a manufacturers name plate, just google for "manufacturer press", asking for images.

Sounds like a great pump to have. The one I use is a 3-stage pump, with the final flow being 60 cubic inches per minute (at 10K PSI). You have seen what I do with it. I am interested to see what you will do with yours.... Higher speed would be nice (at final pressures) I'm sure, but a lot can be accomplished at the lower flow rates also... Good Luck with yours...

If your pump flow does vary with the set pump pressure..... for the first pass, I would recommend figuring out what pressure (mapped against the size of the cylinder) will yield around 20 tons of pressure. If I recall correctly, Jim Batson's instructions for building presses target that pressure and should be very useful for general use. If, for some of your projects you want more pressure, you can always adjust.

ironstien.... Sound like you have under control... If the cylinder is large bore, it will be slow, but you can still do a lot with it. As I said before, just make the press opening barely large enough to get the hot metal in before you squish (do this before you take your project out of the forge). Lots of luck

I posted a response over on the "followed me home" thread for you....

ironstein I suggest finding an Enerpac type cylinder (10,000 PSI rated) and using it at it's highest pressure setting. I use a similar pump (although mine is multi-staged) with a press I made. The photos show some of the types of small vessels I make with it. Whatever you press with it, be sure you move the opposing surfaces close as close together as you can before you put the hot stuff in. This will minimize the heat loss before contact is made.... 55 CUI is slow moving on a cylinder that size. I press pipe and square tubing cutoffs, then weld in a bottom. The press will move slow, but you can do this type of work... I added a picture of the press also (ignore the motor sitting on top). Good luck with that.... Some may tell you the pump is not fast enough, but don't believe them. Use will be limited, but results are assured, presses don't have to move fast for everything you might want to use it for....