Dave Hammer

I purposefully do not clamp the roof bricks too tight. If you do, the bricks will break. It's kind of a balancing act. I very much like the idea of putting them on edge, rather than flat. There is no doubt the structure will be stronger. It may take a set of threaded rod on each side (and maybe not). Also, when you handle these structures, be gentle with them. The more you handle soft brick, the more likely they will be damaged. I only use this type of forge when my Super C forge is not large enough for my current project.

Randy... I have heard of some folks just using a mortar mix directly over thermal blanket. I don't know about comparative results. I learned about the multi-layered process from a professional glass worker who designs and makes glory holes. He has used the technique for decades with positive results. Most of his work has been with glass blowers. I don't know for sure, but my guess would be that the colloidal silica/zirconium silicate mix would bind better to the thermal blanket (or anything else) because it may "soak" in a little better and provide a more sure adhesion.. and the sandwich process makes a more durable structure. I'm told that the colloidal silica/zirconium silicate mix can also be used alone, although the result is not as strong a coating. My source told me he uses the mortar primarily to build a stronger structure. His book, "A Glass Blower's Companion" has a description of the process I have used. Keep in mind that.... even though I speak about a strong structure, it is only relative. You still have to be very careful putting items in the forge and taking items out of the forge. If you press against the lining, it is fairly easy to damage it. The advantage of these thin linings of refractory over thermal blanket is that the forge heats up much faster than a fully solid lining. I have not used the ridigizer from Axner, but if you buy colloidal silica from sources other than I've suggested, be sure it is not a diluted mix (as compared to my recommended sources). One product I have tested with is "InsTuff", which is colloidal silica and is sold as a thermal blanket rigidizer. It does work OK for a rigidizer (although I like the "thinned" colloidal silica I use better for that purpose), but it did not work well at all when I used it to make the colloidal silica/zirconium silicate mix. I suspect it is already thinned, and maybe more than 50%. Remember the mix is made with full strength colloidal silica (the brand I recommended). I don't know how to tell you to get exact comparisons between manufacturers. My source of information religiously uses brands he has used for many years. I searched for sources that would sell smaller quantities and asked enough questions (in some cases spoke to their research organizations) to have confidence the products were comparable. Although I couldn't get exact chemical comparisons, I was satisfied with the general comparisons. As far as using sodium silicate as a replacement for colloidal silica, I would not expect that sodium silicate would work as well under the high temperatures in a forge. Zirconium silicate is a powder that is held in suspension within the binder. Zirconium silicate does not disolve into the liquid. The difference would be the temperature at which the binder breaks down. Sodium silicate has a melting point (chrystallization probably) at a much lower temperature than colloidal silica (almost half). If your forge gets to a "too high" temp for sodium silicate, I would expect the surface to fail. Obviously, this can happen with either chemical, but colloidal silica tolerates much higher temperature. I expect those temperatures vary a bit between manufacturers. Another note... I use sodium silicate as "glue" to adhere thermal blanket to the forge body (and layer to layer). If you keep your forge at extremely high temperatures for long periods of time, and that heat radiates through the coating and thermal blanket to the forge body, the forge body can get hot enough to make that adhesion fail. For that reason, I have started recommending using the "staples" to hold thermal blanket in addition to using the sodium silicate. The "simple forge lining" video shows how I use high temp wire for this purpose....

To measure the taper in a sow block or anvil dovetail, cut two pieces of small round stock (like 1/4 or 3/8) one foot long. Take die out and put those two pieces of round down in the dovetail, pushed against the sides on the bottom. Use a small square to line up the ends of the rounds with each other. Then measure the distance from outside to outside on both ends. IIRC, Little Giants are supposed to be 1/8th inch taper per foot. Even if the dovetail is screwed up from use, this should show you whether or not there is a taper there.

"Can I lay it on its side and use a 1-ton shop crane ? Help?" Yes you can.... A 25# Little Giant only weighs about 750 pounds. Also... Put a junk tire under the business end when you do. And don't forget to strap it down somehow. You may want to remove the motor and linkage.

JGRAFF Asked..... Does anyone know how far i should slip the flair onto the burner tube? Is there a scienctific method or guess and check? I've made a few burners... Not my original process, but I learned to slide the flare on so the taper starts just below the end of the burner tube. Light the burner (outside the forge). If you don't have a flame that pleases you, loosen the flare (with the burner burning) and slide it up or down a little at a time till you get the most optimum flame. I clamp the burner in a vise and use a long allen wrench. Movement is easier to control if you slightly turn the flare as you slide it up or down. If the burner will not stay lit outside the forge, play with the pressure and be sure the orifice is pointed straight down the tube. If it stll doesn't stay burning outside the forge, set the burner as I initially suggested and put it in the forge and test it. I have had burners that would not work outside the forge work just fine with the little back pressure the forge will provide. If you use a straight pipe for a flare (not really a flare,but it will hold the flame.... just not as efficiently I would guess), Put it on the burner tube with about 1.5 inches past the end of the tube.... then follow the directions above.

This axe is made from a wooden wheel tire. Wrought iron with a steel bit. Head is 3/8ths inch thick and about 5 inches long.

I've been called worse things.... My name is Hammer :)

Can you find a radiator hose large enough to slide over the spring?

:-)

I committed this past October to put out the group of videos I have been working on. Finally, the last one is up on YouTube. It can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDnaWW5xFyA Time to go take a nap.

I put two more videos up on YouTube associated with the Super C Propane forge... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=721oGEY842Q http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3M2OwGWioZQ One more video should be coming (hopefully within the next week) about a free form forge... Then I'm done for a while (all video'ed out).

John.... Nice work as usual.

Thanks for the positive comment. Sorry, I can't provide a meaningful comparison to ITC-100. I wouldn't "expect" flux to have a negative effect on the coating I applied in the "Super C" lining video, except for the mess it makes (not gonna test that on purpose), but I don't know for sure. In any case (unless your floor is thermal blanket) that coating should not be used on floors (which is where flux generally ends up).

I've put a couple new videos up on YouTube about how to put lining in gas forges. More videos will be coming soon that cover cutting firebrick for the doors, making floors and where to buy the materials I use in the videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqaC1rcTdvk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4W-SV2GcOk

I don't know about that particular forge, but it's likely that there is an obstruction in the burner (probably the orifice). I'm assuming that one of the burners is working properly. You should be able to recognize that by looking into the forge. If there is a shutoff valve near the burner(s), crank up the pressure as high as you can, then turn the shutoff valve off, then on right away. If that doesn't work, disassemble the burner(s) and use a welding tip cleaner to clear the orifices. If that doesn't work, you probably need to disassemble the manifold to see if there is junk in there anywhere. Blow it all out with high air pressure (careful not to damage your lining). I have had "what looks like wax" build up in plumbing. One more thing, mud daubers love to crawl into small places and do their magic. When they do, it usually just takes a thorough cleaning and things start working again.

Please be sure you have adequate ventilation in your garage when you use your forge. A carbon monoxide monitor is essential to know it's safe... Nice looking forge, by the way...

I agree with HWooldridge... Put a layer of at least 4"-6" of hardwood under it (bound together with threaded rod). If the floor is at least 8" thick, I doubt it will be harmed. If it's less, isolation would probablybe a good idea.

My 3B does work somewhat better with the changes I have made. Not quite as I hope for yet though. I won't be doing more work on it till the weather warms up. It will probably be February or March before I crank it up again.... maybe even later in the spring. I am fortunate enough to have a power hammer inside to use.

When I consider value in my workshop, my welder(s) have given me more "return on investment" value than any other tool or object I have. They have allowed me to repair or make hundreds of tools, my forges (coal and gas), tool racks, attachments for tractors and skid steers, playground equipment (swing sets, monkey bars) for kids and grandkids. I have fixed automobile parts, garage door tracks, cut holes, made foundations for powerhammers, fixed exhaust systems and made brackets to hold and hang things. I can do magic for friends and neighbors (at least they think so) who need help fixing, rather than replacing broken objects. Of course you need a welder... and another thing... it doesn't HAVE to impinge upon your blacksmithing activities. You can still be traditional in every way with your hobby or profession. I do a LOT with metal...., a lot of it using traditional blacksmith methods, and more using modern tools to go where no forge weld (not one I can do anyway) can go. My welders are some of the most useful tools in my shop. They let me do infinitely MORE than I could do without them. I, primarily, use an arc welder because that was what I first bought and learned with. It was probably the best $100 I ever spent . Of course, if all you want to do with metal, is make a leaf, or a hook, or stay within the limits of what we can forge weld, you may not have a use for one...

It's a little harder to find, but if you use schedule 80 1/8th inch black pipe, you can cut 1/4 inch threads that will hold fine. I do like the idea of reducing the size of schedule 40 pipe by fullering or tapering, but be sure your work is good enough to have the mig tip pointing straight down the burner tube.

Nichrome wire is a great method, just drill a couple holes an inch apart or so, and make a staple, pushed in from the outside and folded over in inside (use as many staples as is necessary).. I used that method until a few years ago. Currently, I use sodium silicate (liquid glass) as a glue to adhere thermal blanket to a forge body... and to glue layers of thermal blanket together. I "pat" or brush it on, whichever works better. If you use the sodium silicate, you also need to put a refractory over the blanket because it won't stand up to direct forging temperatures (it will chrystalize). It can be bought from ceramic supply sources. Pay attention to the MSDS, it will save you extreme discomfort.

I confess that I didn't read every word of every reference above, but there are more considerations than just amperage draw of the tool. One is the distance your welder is from the service panel. Measure the length of the cable you need (including all the twists and turns) to put the receptacle where you need it, then find a calculator online to determine minimum wire gauge. Also consider that the routing of cables may affect gauge sizes (local/national requirements). Cables that are enclosed (like in conduit), may need to be heavier because of temperature considerations (check electrical codes).

The last time I bought coal, I think I paid about $145 a ton from *** Green Valley Coal Co. (The old Lady H Mine) -- Leivasy, WV.. Call 304 846 8061.... I'm not sure this number is still good, but the coal is outstanding. Pick it up (they loaded) at the mine.

If you are using a block of steel for an anvil, why not weld a "very heavy" walled piece of square tubing on the side of your block? Hardy hole tools that require low to moderate striking could be used directly in the hole. If using your hardy tool involves heavy hammering, weld a post near the side of a heavy piece of plate, then weld your hardy tool on that plate.

Look here. www.masasmiths.org/gichner-memorial-hammer-in/ There is a link that says "Registration form" in the text. See you there.