Steve K

I would say very nice, especially for a first try. Thanks for showing.

Looks great, I like the blade shape and love the maple burl. Thanks for sharing, Steve

Very, very nice!!! I love that spalted maple. Steve

Bruce, the top die is shimed to where the back part of the die hits first or is lower than the front so it makes crimp marks when the billet is at a higher heat. I just work the billet across in icrements(1/4" - 3/8") and then flatten out with flatter or as the billet cools a little. Thanks for the kind words, Steve

Alan, I don't think so. The larger one is sold and I may keep the smaller to carry. Are you making a good recovery? I hope to see you at the Jan. hammerin. Metal muncher, L-6 Thanks for the comments, Steve

I like the blade shape. What is the blade length? It looks like a good weld. The next one will meet up at the antler better

I have'nt posted in a long while, so here are the last two I finished. Both are made from my steel consisting of 1095, saw blades, and banding. The smaller is 63 layer random with a 3" blade and 6 1/4" overall. The slabs are ram horn and brass pins. The larger knife is 99 layer with a pattern that resembles cut ladder, I get this from crimping the billet on the flat dies on my power hammer. It has a 4" blade and is 8 5/8" overall with birdseye maple slab and brass pins. Both are hallow ground and 1/8" thick at the choil. Thanks for looking, Steve

Chain is interesting but overrated in my opinion. It is much easier to stack up some different types of steel to make pattern welded goodies. I mostly use 1 1/4" X 1/8" 1095, 1 1/4" saw blades and 1 1/4" banding. I cut all material 2 1/2" inches in length. Welds quick and easy. Save the chain for later is my suggestion. Steve

I use two different ones. One is seven parts muratic acid to one part pcb echant. The other is pcb and water 50/50. The 50/50 mix will give a darker etch and the other lighter. Steve

I'll be there Thursday evening and looking forward to visiting with everyone.

Leo, PM sent your way

Rebar=Junk is wrong. Grade 60 rebar which can be found at block and concrete suppliers has more tensile (sp?) strength than 5160. It is the Lowes type places that sell the really cheap stuff usually. So not all rebar is junk.

Very nice job Dodge. Thanks for sharing Steve

I'm with Richard, side draft for sure. I have used forges with hoods and they were in the way and none drew like my side draft. my 2 cents Steve

Very nice Rich. Your craftmanship is inspiring. Thanks for sharing

Looks good Julian, I like the buckeye alot. Most of the knives I make anymore are around this size. It's a good working size. Thanks for sharing.

Top notch work, thanks for posting Ed.

I don't know about that exact size but I bought 1/8" X 1 1/4" 1095 from Admiral Steel. I think it came from Chicago. I ordered it from their website.

This is some of what I've been working on lately The first pic is the center knife in the fourth picture. It is 99 layer twist, using 1095, saw blade, and banding steels. Whitetail handle with wrought guard and steel pin. Next two pics are the bottom knife on the fourth picture. It's forged from a rasp with itegral guard and curly maple slabs with steel pins. Top knife has integral guard, curly maple slabs and copper pins. It was forged from leaf spring. The fifth pic is same steel as the first with whitetail handle and brass guard. The last is 69 layer random using the same 3 steel combo. It has elk handle with whitetail spacer and brass guard. It also has a pewter buttcap. Sorry for the poor quality pics Enjoy Steve

Very nice, thanks for sharing Karl

Very nice Julian

That is one fine hawk. Thanks for sharing.

Very nice. Thanks for sharing. I hope someday to try a folder. Steve

That's awsome. Great hammer. Steve

Very nice. Can you give any info on the Ohio show?