PaulF

I have a Champion no1 power hammer. I have replaced the guides, main and aux shafts and all the fastening hardware. The dies are in great shape and the springs are in perfect condition. I have mounted it on a 3.5x4' 1/2" plate and mounted that on a Doug fir 8x8 platform that is through fastened with 5/8 threaded steel rods, a fairly stout mount even without bolting to the concrete floor. I've also made a new belt and moved the main belt pulley/ sheve (sp) to the rear of the hammer, to allow the motor to be mounted on the deck behind the hammer. The dies are parallel to the hammer (for and aft) not at an angle as some others. Question? Does this position mean an older hammer?? looking forward to getting it running next week! Thanks in advance!

I am also refitting a 65lb no1. I have herd conflicting reports. but, I have observed that the champion I have, is solid cast Iron, no hollow cavities, to break this would be very unlikely. All the parts I have jury rigged were easy to fab from standard bar and plate stock. The hammer can draw a 1" sq bar to a needle taper in about 2 min. Unless the casting is broken at some place I can vouch for the champion 65 pounder.

This is a great topic! I must be a very lucky guy, 20 years ago I bought a 180 lb, 1942 Fisher. I offered the guy $100.00, he gave it to me for $75. Said everyone else try ed to get it for $50. The anvil is in pristine shape. I have since sold my Nimba 475 because it was to big and tough to move around. Thought about getting a 200# Nimba. I'm finding my 100 Kolswa and the 180 Fisher are all I need. Thanks for some great content!!

Might even do some experimentation on differential hardening. Just to see how the material works out. Sorry I didn't mention the use, just wondering who may have used the stuff , how they used it and what they thought of it. I have a lot of it. Never used it before.

This is what I suspected. Oil quench and 450 to 500 temper for 2 hrs. I'll use these tables. https://www.hudsontoolsteel.com/technical-data/steelL6

Not candy dishes. Veg choppers for gifts. Similar treatment for knife blades. I have a lot of O1, A2, D2 and H and S types. But I can't beat the material price. They are probably on the 25-50 year old range, I have a few acquaintances who worked at the mills, but they know way more about wood than alloy steel.

I have acquired several 4' diameter sawmill blades, the teeth are formed of the parent steel and not brazed inserts. These came out of commercial saw mills in Washington. I'm assuming L6?? Does anyone have information or experience with this material? Especially hardening and tempering info? Thanks in advance!

Fabricate one with pipe and plate ends machined to size. I'm looking on as I have a NO1 i'm rebuilding.

anvilfire.com : The Virtual Hammer-In Archives No. 602 - July 2009www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/archives/index.php?f=v072009.htm...Cached Here is the Quote, "My grandfather was a marine, (3rd wave onto Iwo Jima) and he said your standard issue marine could manage to break an anvil with a rubber mallet." As a former Marine, I'm not sure this is true! PaulF

You are most welcome sir. Paulf

Got the new belt made and things are going well!! Francis, I was in the Marines! I followed the directions and had no problems! Cpl P J Farley TAC PARTY 3rd BN 9th Marines 3rd Marine Division 1967-1971

all you need to dtart is a hammer and a fire.......an anvil also helps

If you want to start a whole new tool lust try a plasma cutter! no gas to buy paulf

got the belt, got the clip's, going for it now! Paulf That quiet belt sounds good though!! Paulf

That sounds great. Paulf

I for one would like to see that technique! PaulF

Thanks guys, All great solutions. That Hit or miss place is impressive. Is there anything Mcmaster Carr does not sell?? I'll check with the local Hay guys first. Thanks again! PaulF

Good evening, I am just about done with my Champion #1 re-do. I bought the last flat belt from a company in Seattle. I was actually a strip of conveyor belt with a wire pinch link to join the seam. It has worked great for 20 years. I’d like to do it again as I now need a longer belt. The problem is I can’t locate the company and I don’t remember the company name. Does anyone know where I can get a belt? About 3” wide and ¼ thick?? The stuff my current belt is made of is synthetic material with a plastic Polyurethane coating. They said it was material used to move luggage. Thanks PaulF

Thanks Guys, And I do have a copy of Pounding out the Profits. Great Book! My hammer is, or was, set up for an overhead Jack shaft, came from a boatyard in Bellingham Wa. I mounted it today on the plate and dead-wood. It is a very sturdy and stable mounting. The dies of this hammer are not the original set, as they weigh 75# with the attached hardware. So far the thing is lookin real good, machined a new shaft and cleaned things up a bit. Onward! PaulF

Thanks judson, That motor and reduction gear box looks like a good idea. PaulF

My nephew, now deceased, was presented with a football signed by the players and coaches of the Then, Super Bowl champion Chicago Bears. It was a make a wish thing. He played with that football till all the names wore off. Paulf

OK, I just saw Monstermetal's reply to a thread and he has done it. Monstermetal....How did ti work out?? Paulf

Hi all, I am in the process of modifying my Power Hammer. It’s a Champion #1. I’m thinking of putting on a longer main shaft and moving the belt shiv to the back of the hammer. I will also mount it on a ¾ steel plate then mount that on timbers so the hammer will be about 8” higher (I don’t like the bending while hammering.). In this configuration, I can mount the old Century motor on a pedestal welded to the floor plate behind the hammer. Then by reconfiguring the belt tension mechanism I can activate the hammer in the same way (Foot pedal). My question is this: The journal bearings will no longer be loaded from the center of the yoke formed in the middle if the hammer between the bearings. The load will be toward the floor behind the hammer. Has anyone done this? If so, how did it work? Thanks for the help! Paulf

I've got 3 anvils, a Kohlshwa 100, Paid $75 with a 4"post vice in 1975, a 180 Fischer $80 at a garage sale in 92, both good anvils. But the big one is a Russel Jaqua 475 Gladiator bought in 1996 for $1800. Yes it was expensive, yes I saved for a year to buy it. However, It is one of the finest tools I own and is a pleasure to use every time I use it. I don't think of the cost when I use it, just how well it returns the energy from each impact. A good tool is a pleasure to use every tine, the cost only hurts once. It just depends what your vices are! PaulF

Thomas, that’s interesting. I just finished rebuilding a Ford 8N Last year. It was in fair shape when I bought it but needed new everything. Talk about project creep! New gen, wiring, carb, valves, radiator core, water pump, hoses, thermostat, gauges, head gasket, exhaust manifold, PTO shaft seals, front loader ram seals, HYD pump rings and seals, paint…ect… ect. The correct term would be (I’m $6000 away from a great $2000 tractor). It was a lot of fun doing the work though. Have fun. As soon as I get more Information on the Hammer progress I’ll post. Paulf