keykeeper

Aluminum cans are made from rolled stock of a very thin thickness . Extruded aluminum, like commercial window frame stock would have more for the melting, but as Steve said, would be a different alloy. It would take WAY to many individual cans to be a worthwhile venture, even as a hobby. Watch yard sales, flea markets, etc. for people selling old aluminum cookware, like dutch ovens, saucepans, etc. Also, look for scrapped weedeater engine parts. Lots of usable aluminum there in the cast parts. The more weight you have per item, the better off you will be.

Everything I've used thus far, in no particular order. -Liquid Wrench (hard to beat) -PB Blaster (really gets into tight areas) -CRC 3-36 (Wish I had more of it, great stuff, most all CRC products are great) -WD-40 -Marvel Mystery Oil (awesome, but takes some time) -ATF (Great for long soaks to remove even coating of rust) -vinegar (fast, but will remove more than needed sometimes!) -used motor oil (slow soak) -kerosene -diesel fuel

Take your time, use plenty of PB Blaster and a wire brush. Once things start to move a little bit, keep on brushing, spraying, and playing. I've heard a long soak in diesel fuel works well for large objects that once moved but don't anymore. Might be more economical than several cans of penetrating oil. Keep us posted on your progress!

Your coworker probably stopped at Tamarack, which is showcase of juried work from local artisans. I'd bet the spike knives there for $300 made that ebay one look like something from the scrap pile. I've seen some of the work displayed at Tamarack, and met a few of the artisans that wholesale their work to the place. Everything for sale at Tamarack is top-notch work. (Since seeing that spike knife on eBay, I've thought of offering a kit for making your own, complete with instructions. I'd send them a spike, plans for a forge, instructions for finding an anvil, and links to IFI to see what the finished knife should look like. Figure I could sell them at 1/3 the price of a finished knife at that guys prices. Might be able to retire early if I were to sell enough of them!)

How much is the anvil? Dimensions? Pictures? This info. would be helpful.

Nice job on that one, 1911. Your leather work is great!

Could it be VAUGHN? I have several of that brand. Or it could be Vaughan?

Bruce, Could be used either way. After looking at it, I would be inclined to use it either way myself, although would seem off balance and nose heavy for use as a hammer. I was just speculating, as so many of the handheld type struck tools seem to have had the bevels cut on each corner of the cross section, I think to reduce the amount of mushrooming and/or help direct the force of the blow to the center of the tool. Either way, I would have snatched that up myself. Looks well made, and if nothing else, a great conversation piece around the smithy!

Looks more like a struck tool to me. Has the characteristic bevels like so many other struck tools I've seen. Maybe a fuller of some sort. Maydole tools have a following with collectors, as he invented a process for making the eye longer for more strength. Seen mostly with carpenter hammers, IIRC.

Peaceful journey, Buran. Frosty, prayers for you and Deb in your time of loss. -aaron

Steve, makes sense to me.....On with the doctor ban!!!!

Hope somebody that will use it got hold of it. That thing rocks!

Try the library, search the catalog for "blacksmith", "blacksmithing", etc. There is a multitude of books that will help you on your way. There is even loads of information available on the net if you look for it. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/free-blacksmithing-books-web-2032/ IFI even has a book review section here that lists what the good books are Book Reviews - Blacksmith Forum Enjoy your quest for knowledge, young Skywalker....;)

Sure hope it's not that depleted uranium stuff I've been hearing about. Could be hazardous. On the other hand, a blade made from actual Iraqi ordinance from "the big sandpit debacle" would make an interesting keepsake to tell the grandkids about. I'd liken a keepsake like that to the "Trench Art" that came out of WWI. Neat stuff.

I don't see a thing wrong with either of those, although the Colombian is great, IMHO. Use them both, work around the problems on the Ajax. Plenty of flat surface on it.

Hmm, lets see, a 220 +/- Peter Wright, made after 1910, which makes it modern, no mention of condition, no pictures to see condition, no idea where it will be coming from, hmmm.....best I can do is .35/pound, you pay the shipping. Yeah, I think that would be a good deal. For me, that is. C'mon, do we look like appraisers here or what? I'm sure with some pictures and a location, someone might be able to help you. I'm not trying to be negative, but shed light on the fact that those of us who want to help with your request, can't without details. Heck, some of us may know someone near you looking for an anvil.

Sorry, just had to highlight that for anyone just tuning in to this discussion. I think your statement sums up this thread and the desired end result very well.

You are spot on with this statement, Rich. I call these folks "forum junkies". They seem to take little advice from the topic being discussed, only the satisfaction of watching the number of posts reflected on the top right of the post header going up, up, up. I have experienced these folks on other forums I frequent. My conclusion is they must be independently wealthy and have little else to do with their time. Sometimes, when I click new posts on this forum, I will see a string of threads in the list, with all the new posts showing to the same person, usually a newly registered member posting to several different subjects within a time frame of mere minutes. One post will be in the "introduce yourself" section, then the others will be all over the map, ie:blacksmithing, power hammers, sculpture, bladesmithing, etc and so on. Sometimes this will be new members with years of experience, but often it turns out to be the very same people this thread is about. End of rant. I'm sorry if I rambled on, but since I have very little fabrication skills, and I've got this rock, a hammer and a propane torch, I'm gonna go build myself a power hammer to make this sword I saw in a movie. Will a leaf spring work if I quench it in butter, as I have no oil?:D

I vote that this become a sticky that appears at the top of the list for every forum section on this site. That way it will be viewed over, and over, etc...... Thanks Quenchcrack for starting this thread, and thanks to all the others that have posted already in this thread, as you are some of the most active on this forum. I respect you all, and read carefully what you all say each time you post here. You folks are the part of the backbone of what makes IFI what it is. I would mention the others, but fear I may leave someone off the list.

Welcome to IFI. Send me a PM and I'll clue you in to the local gatherings. -aaron c.

Amen brothers! I check this forum everyday, sometimes multiple times per day. I try to help when possible, but I see a rash of the same basic questions, from new folks who don't (or won't) spend the time to search out the answer. I think it boils down to impatience, and the extreme need of this certain demographic for instant gratification. As to how to handle things of this nature, I'm with all of you and I echo your above comments.

Ok, just wondering, is all. Looks from the picture that it works well. Good show, carry on. You will find that a coal fire WILL burn things up in a hurry, they do get THAT hot. It's part of the learning curve in relation to fire management! If you can't control the fire, try choking the blower down a bit. A choke setup will also let you conserve coal.

Now that's an interesting firepot. Any specific reason why you didn't use plate steel for the base and sides?

Talk about consumable costs for the shop going up... How much does prosciutto cost per pound vs. plasma tips?

Go with the big stump, or a heavy angle iron stand. Concrete won't take the shock and vibration.