Oak Hill Forge

I did a project at work about 14 years ago that installed 9 of the "organge" ones. The repeatability of the motions was to less than .5mm over 24 hours of running ! Amazing.... oh and yes they have a joy stick... that's how you "teach" them. We went to the factory where they were built and all.... fun times !

would make your hammers taste better though....... And I think it's a GOOD thing M-Brothers didn't get it...... means he's doing something more constructive with his time, like BLACKSMITHING !

Hey looper567, is this your experience with your unit ? "Another one for any of the diamondbackironworks forges. I have the two burner knifemaker. Forge at 4psi, and weld at 6psi. " What pressure do you find necessary with your forges to "weld". I think that's a reletive term also cause I'm sure it depends on whether you are trying to weld razor blades or 1" bar stock. That sounds impressive, but. I'm new to blacksmithing and even newer to gas forges, but that sounds optimistic to me ?

As a begining smith I sure can relate as well ! I have the whole family engaged in learning blacksmithing. It's part of my job (my real job) to write safety procedures, follow work in progress, specify personal protective equipment, so proper clothing, safety glasses, gloves etc. are natural tendencies for me. My 12 year old daughter was equipped in the whole git up while we were smithing a few weeks ago, and she had the "false sense of securitiy" (the part I failed to explain, or took for granted due to life's previous experiences) that a gloved hand was "heat proof" and she grabbed a black hot piece of steel that fell from the anvil, only to get a nice set of second degree burns. There is as Glenn said the tendency for the burn to continue until you can get the glove off, so maybe respect of the heat an no glove is better.

They are just like anvils, bigger is usually more useful, although if you plan on doing any demo work a smaller one is obviously more portable.

Blacksmith FORGE for iron work Buffalo Forge Co. - eBay (item 170339075294 end time Jun-07-09 10:08:30 PDT)

What kind of forge do you wish to build ? Coal or Gas ? I have several under construction right now.

Nice piece, but too far for me to drive, swim, boat or fly to pick up :(

I can't tell by looking but I assume it's a Dialarc HF ? They also make standard Dialarc's which you could scratch start TIG with, but if there is a cooler I'm sure it's an HF. I bought a Syncrowave 300 with all the options but it's a monster, size wise and current requirements also. It's a great machine though. They are all bulletproof.

My vote for AC would be 7014 then 7018 AC, like others have commented though. ... keep your 7018's dry.

I made new legs for mine out of EMT conduit with a conduit bender.... turned out real nice.

I dunno, but I smelt like iron all the time....:)

I used a grader blade for the wedge on the log spliter I built, and had to anneal the area to drill the hole for the cylinder pin..... it's hard stuff for sure.

With my luck, the lawn mower would have found it !!! Looks great !

It will have a clinker breaker, just have gotten that far yet. I'm still split on the design.

Here's my forge project (actually one of 3 in progress !)

Here's my welded firepot I've been working on for my table forge. I used the design in the book "A Blacksmith's Primer" by Randy McDaniel, except I used 1/2" plate steel instead of 1/4" or 3/8". I had the pattern CNC plasma cut so everything fit up really tight. The root passes were TIG welded and the filler passes are 7018. The flange is TIG welded to the pot portion. The tuyere has 2 slots 5/8" X 2".

The forge pictured is not mine, just a picture form my collection. I bid on a forge like that at an auction but it was completely rusted away except for the blower. It still brought like $160.00

If you look at it again I bet you will see the legs are angle iron and slip into brackets so they are removable. Look at this one attached. I'm not sure they were Military, but they were sure portable !

I have a 100 pound Vulcan I bought cheap, just to see if I could repair it. The edges are terribly chipped ... well beyond radiusing

When you did the welding, did you pre-heat the anvil ? Have you made edge repairs with 6011 or7018 ?

Frosty, When heat treating a hammer head do you have to do the two ends separately ?

Keep us posted on how the insurance company treats you. There have been previous posts saying their policies wouldn't cover structures used for forging or welding. If you don't get satisfaction, don't foget to let us know so we can avoid giving them our business. I hope you don't have to get into the lawyer thing. We did with a dog mauling situation with our daughter who was 6 at the time, Unfortunately 99% of the lawyers give the rest of them a bad name.

If you have a routed section in the stump, you could also use a thin layer of sand which would conform to the anvils irregular base and eliminate high spots.

Now if anybody falls in the bucket, they will burn up..... need a new sticker !