ForgeMan32

Yea nate the one layer that was short was just one of the one inch layers so hopefully it won't hurt to bad. I've did my research on all this stuff except for flooring.Alan you asked why they are not set tangentially, I guess because I've always had a better result with the offset burners and I've kept my burners and inch back into the kaowool so I don't burn up my flares. Hek I wasn't even sure what tangent meant when I read that.lol. north carlinian boy here. I think il try a kiln shelf and try it out and I will let y'all know the results. And of course i will have a door on this thing i want to heat the forge not my garage.

Well nate the split thing is where I cut that outer layer of blanket an inch short. And frosty thank you for that . Is there any thickness that works better ,I live near a ceramics supplier and they have some of all sizes . I seen they have 5/8" thick for a good price or should i go thicker.

I just built a new propane forge with a 2" layer of inswool and a 1 " layer over top of that . 3" total. I have 2 venturi burners . And I used instuf for the rigidizer and then itc-100 on topof that. My question is I have a half fire brick layed down for a bottom and there is air space under the brick. Is this an appropriate bottom or should i use something else for a hotter forge temperature. I painted the brick with itc100 also. I plan to use insulating firebrick to make a front door. I'm trying to make a good forge for forge welding or whatever I throw In it. I have a Freon tank forge and it's size and heat limitations are why I've built this one. ive heard of people using kiln shelf and pouring high temp mortar for a floor . Just wondering what's best and keep in mind I won't be doing a lot of forge welding but if it comes down to I don't wana have to fire up the coal forge unless absolutely necessary. I know o e forge can't do it all but my other propane forge wouldn't reach that nice juicy white heat.

I like my striking anvil for upsetting hardies. It's two layers of forklift tine welded together 4140 steel. Does a wonderful job and has two size hardy holes to choose from . I welded in tubes in this case because I didn't have anybody to waterjet the holes for a good price.

No not really a parts list . I made it 53" tall and I think around 12" between the rails. I was bent on making a c frame press or this h frame and something just told me this would be sturdier. The biggest thing on the frame was making sure I did multi pass welds and I made sure of that..

You may try making them a little thicker on the next go around. And definitely when splitting that V work the metal hot. Your slitting chisel or whatever you opened it up with will suck the heat out of thin stock like that very quick. When your done forging they always say to put it back in the fire to relieve stress from prior forging. Normalizing. Looks like your definitely on the right track

Google/ internet

There are some videos on YouTube .one guy on here I think his name is tubbe abjorn or something like that has a good video on a flatter and tells the size stock he uses. But no one flatter is gona fit everybody's needs. Just for a little insight I think 1.5" to 2" round makes a size flatter I like. And the length doesn't matter you can trim the length down. Check out that video ,he uses a jig for upsetting and it makes a great looking shoulder on his flatter

I've always used a striking anvil or a sort of bolster block and upseted my anvil hardies. I have a peddinghaus and they put the hardy hole in the front of the anvil instead on the heel and this seems to be a much beefier area for it. I dont think it would hurt a 330 lb. Anvil but a 150 or under your asking for trouble beating on it with a sledge. It may take a while but when that time comes (snap). Ive actually made a tool for my hydraulic press that you can upset a hardie in seconds.

I used a 5" cylinder and 2"or 2.5"bore and i got one with 12" stroke just incase i need extra room. And i bought the two stage pump at northern tool it was an 11/3gpm if I recall. I bought the cylinder at surplus center .I thought about going to a 6" cylinder but prices jump considerably

Ok I will try that I was testing it in free air . I watched a video on YouTube where the guy had his running perfect on a bench so I just assumed mine would to . I've been using Ron reil burner and it works good but I wana try this burner .

Ok I've built my t burner and I am having trouble tuning it. I have made sure my fitting is perfectly straight down the center . When I fire it up I am getting a little to much flame around the mig tip for comfort and if you start turning upthe pressure I get a blue flame but not with the nice cone in the middle . II've tried shaving the mig tip down several times until I got the first one so short it would kill the flame with any pressure . It acts like I'm leaking gas around the 5/16" hole but I'm not I've checked all connections. Frosty any advise on what I'm doing wrong . Besides everything lol

Yes I truly like the cylinder on bottom better I think visually I can see it better. It makes everything around chest high.I really thought my design over and for what I am forging like hardies ,tongs , and hammers .and a small amount of damascus i really like this design. And i kept my motor and tank on a cart like the Claiborne design. For space reasons. This thing is a beast and it's great for larger stock like I've been working lately.

Yes h13 is like hitting cold steel lol. You have to rely on your heat to do the work and a power hammer really helps.

I used 3" by 3" angle for the sides .And it was 3/8" or 1/2" I ccan't remember I was gona use 1/4" because it was more accessible but I was afraid it would be to weak. This thing is awsome. I based it off the Carolina 24 ton press and the foot pedal is so sensitive and the ram is fast enough it's like a power hammer action . You can use lighter hits with the pedal .. but if your just forging Damascus I'm sure you could get by without it