Jump to content
I Forge Iron

double_edge2

Members
  • Posts

    567
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by double_edge2

  1. if they kick and bite, and i survive, its shoo, with a silent " T " ...........lol
  2. finnished a forge for someone and made some hardy tools. no pic of the forge.:)
  3. yep and the use of stock or angle, with a shelf/step on the anvil to keep the steel rib created, central for both sides raised vein. http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/education/education_index.htm http://home.flash.net/~dwwilson/ntba/archive/decoleaf/leaftools.html
  4. yeh....i saw that one ..lol ...my feeble attempts, though ok are no where near as ok as that and a couple of others ive seen from this forun .. you can make a hardy die or a chisel or get flash a do a spring die. the rest is practice/technique. a steady hand and a good eye.....and good hammering.:)
  5. yep down this way at hendra the farrier supply off nudgee rd $220 for a 44 gallon drum.
  6. my mistake i accept your apology......i allow it to cool, not in a forced breeze to accelerate cooling, nor place in a liquid at any temp to reduce heat or aid in warping or hardening a weld, nor do i RETARD, its cooling in any way by deliberately smothering in any solution, gas or chemical substance either powdered or liquified. """So, I don't agree that you "never heat treat lawnmower blades""""...... the ones i purely press....i did not heat....noticably by eye, touch, etc. """ANY TIME you apply heat to steel""" although i suppose i should heat treat them with a cigarette lighter first as that would be a heat treatment and less shock to the grain structure. :D
  7. i dont weld to prolong, or add, only to repair broken sets, and if forged/flatter'd to re edge/shape, i still dont heat treat lawn mower blades. i still dont heat treat lawn mower blades........!!!!!insert.........HARDEN or temper......IMPLIED....:)
  8. nice!...and you know you've just given yourself your next job?...hanging off the hook...... start simple ......then you need ......:o
  9. all you're forges look better than mine. oops, did i hit enter?
  10. hardy bit is easy. me bringing blank bits is the sly subliminal way of getting another blacksmith to make something for me oops, did i hit enter?
  11. ok, old man in perth just did a test. outside furnace, 1.5kg ally melt, about 3 coats, of "glaziers whiting " mixed with water and a bit of metho , and painted on(no binder). knocked about 5 to 8 (adjusted) mins off the melt time for his test. normally about 35 to 40 mins for a melt....about 30 mins for the melt with the reflective. cost was about $7 for 2kg. will try some bentonite or say 10% castable as a loose binder. easy to brush off and recoat.
  12. all for charcoal. welded from bits...only one ever using new steel is the long one for long jobs...the prototype for it ( shown lit )was 3mm from the scrap bin. the non plough disc one is and has been my main forge for quite some years. it was the bottom of a steel hot water tank cut down and 2" water pipe with a 12 volt car blower as wind. they have always sat out in the weather. recently i have been mucking around with gas for forging.
  13. i do, and have done lawn mower blades and 5 h/p multi mulcher blades.....especially after welding i do NOT heat treat or quench after welding.......you dont want them hard in case you hit something and bits fly off.......i have yet to have a problem with a welded blade apart from balance..make sure nice good weld, no inclusions etc....really prepare the joint for welding if you are going to......the rest is flatter and shape.....still no quench...regardless of what steel. hope this helps
  14. 2" is good for me for normal forging, unless you're planning to do big stuff.
  15. only used coal for a couple of years, and did get the big doughnut clinkers, till the old bloke from over the back came over and had a play. his periodic playing/feeding, left no large clinkers, and i learnt fire control, and what the stupid key/handle, spinning thingy was. he said, ant lion nest, keep the cone clean and the lion fed. no more lge clinkers when i got used to it.
  16. should easy manage that. steel leaves easy. 28 mmish hardy. easy to chock. might bring a blank hardy block and some chisel blanks and impose myself upon the blacksmith :)
  17. some home made burners wont run outside cos there is no mixer and no flame keeper (cone on the end or larger dia. shield). it uses the forge as its keeper....or the tube that feeds into the forge as a flame holder.
×
×
  • Create New...